CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
What do you do with the vacuum booster hose and pump?
CK5
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71 K5 with a Cummins
- Thread starter CUCV2
- Start date
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
On the dodges it still runs the cruise control actuator, and the blend doors.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Got the measuring tape out on the CUCV hydroboost this weekend. It is actually going to make things tighter on the intake horn. The current brake set up measures 15.5" to the longest point but there is no clearance issue there. The clearance issue is up higher on the MC where the measurement is about 14.75". The CUCV hydroboost I have measured 15.5" from the firewall mount to where it will intersect with the intake horn.
The custom intake option was explored and, even with a 2.5" tube mandrel bent tube, the clearance to the hood becomes an issue. I was starting to run out of ideas but reread this thread. There are still two more options to explore. The possibility of another MC or turning the stock intake on its mounting location 90 degrees. Might actually get a chance to work on this again now that the kid's school vacation is done.
Ashman-what MC do you have in your measurement pic?
The custom intake option was explored and, even with a 2.5" tube mandrel bent tube, the clearance to the hood becomes an issue. I was starting to run out of ideas but reread this thread. There are still two more options to explore. The possibility of another MC or turning the stock intake on its mounting location 90 degrees. Might actually get a chance to work on this again now that the kid's school vacation is done.
Ashman-what MC do you have in your measurement pic?
I think it 3/4 ton MC for 67-72.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Ok, thanks. I will check to see if that will work.
Here is a pic of the other option. How hard is it to weld cast aluminum?
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Finally, some good news. I dropped the original intake off at the machine shop last week to see what they could do. I asked them if they could fill in the original bolt holes, add some more surface where the gasket goes, and redrill the new bolt hole pattern. Just picked it up today and test fit it. Looks good 
. Still need to paint it and bend up the tube that goes to the intercooler though.
. Still need to paint it and bend up the tube that goes to the intercooler though.
awesome! That should get you all the clearance you need no matter what you decided to do with the brake system.
What did they charge you?
What did they charge you?
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
They charged for one hour worth of labor. IIRC the total was around $117. The work looks good. Big thanks to Dessaureau Machine Shop for getting this done. And we are over what was apparently a big hurdle. Hope the brakes go a little easier
. I was looking into getting the ebrake all set-up next until I saw this;
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=148 . Seems like a pretty crazy set-up. The 2nd gens just have one cable going back until it joins the two rear axle cables together. The current rear axle cables are a bit short with the lift anyways.
I have an NP205 transfer case. The transfer case drive line brake seems like a better choice. But right now, I would like to get it moveable under its own power. This includes being able to stop under it's own power. So, the hydraulic brakes are next. Not doing the hydroboost for now. It does have the the 1 ton brake booster and master cylinder. So, we will see how that works. There is plenty of room to do either type of brakes down the road.
The new hitch in the giddyyup seems to be the brake union where the front and rear brake lines all meet.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=151
Not finding it in the pile of parts that I do have for this rig and LMC does not list it. Other than that, We are moving forward again.
Are you talking about the prop valve? The grey thing sitting below the mc in this pic:
if so, I'm pretty sure I have an extra. I'm on the other side of the country from you, but if you need it I'll look for it and see about send it to you.
nvm, I just noticed the prop valve in your pics above. Not sure what you are talking about though.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
It's the union where the lines from the proportioning valve go to. It splits the rear and two front lines. Maybe it is called a T valve
?
oh, gotcha. That isn't specific to our trucks. You should be able to pick them up from NAPA or O'reilly's, etc...
MrSchaeferPants
1/2 ton status
Nothing useful to add, but just read it all from the beginning. Good stuff Glad to see another project continuing.
Glad to see another project continuing.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Nothing useful to add, but just read it all from the beginning. Good stuff
Thanks for the kind words. It is a series of baby steps in progress that will hopefully add up some day
. And any encouragement is appreciated. The big goal right now is to get it running. When that day comes, it may just feel like completion is possible.Spent a few hours running hard lines this week. They are all in place except where they attach to the wheel ends. Left them disconnected so that I can still pull the axles to clean them up and paint. Pretty minor progress but it is something
.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Moved on to the piping aspect of the build. The intake pipe and the down pipe both needed some modifications to work. I get ideas and try them. Sometimes they work, some times they need revision, and sometimes it just time to start over .
The intake pipe needed to be modified now because the intake horn had been turned 90 degrees. The initial idea to make the stock pipe, from the intercooler to the intake horn, work was to just have it bent up like you would an exhaust. Sounded good in theory but the compound bends were a little much in terms of looks and flow characteristics. The pipe has expansions on each end that I am guessing are there to ensure a proper seal. So, I would like to keep those. There is a pic below of the bent up version. The plan now is to get a 45 degree silicone joint off the intercooler and then take cut ~9" off the ends of the stock pipe and weld them back together for a straighter shot at the intake horn. This will allow for a better fit as well.
The down pipe's initial fitment was discouraging. It would not mate up to the turbo and looked like modifications to the firewall might be necessary. The down pipe does have a heat reflector on it to reduce the tranfer of exhaust heat to the cab. So, that was modified somewhat to see if it was possible to get the pipe mounted. It mounted but clearance to the firewall was almost zero. Ideas for the remaining clearance were a 1" body lift, the firewall mod, and ovaling out the down pipe. Honestly, I was getting a little frustrated with the clearance issues at this point and was about to take a break. I stepped back and looked at the whole project and remembered that the engine still needed to be clocked towards the driver's side. The question was how much. After some time with a level and seeing where the fan is in the shroud, it looks like it will rotate over about an inch. That should be enough clearance for the down pipe.
Now, how to clock the motor
. My engine hoist is lent out at the moment and I like it that way because there is more room in the garage. Not sure if it would be the perfect answer for clocking anyways. There is a engine hoist mount on the engine towards the front. Maybe if a ratchet strap was attached to that and anchored to something over beyond the driver's side... It is looking like it is time to get the engine in it's final mounting point and tighten it down 
. Is this progress? I hope so because it would be nice to hit another phase of the build process at some point. Paint and body would be nice .
.The intake pipe needed to be modified now because the intake horn had been turned 90 degrees. The initial idea to make the stock pipe, from the intercooler to the intake horn, work was to just have it bent up like you would an exhaust. Sounded good in theory but the compound bends were a little much in terms of looks and flow characteristics. The pipe has expansions on each end that I am guessing are there to ensure a proper seal. So, I would like to keep those. There is a pic below of the bent up version. The plan now is to get a 45 degree silicone joint off the intercooler and then take cut ~9" off the ends of the stock pipe and weld them back together for a straighter shot at the intake horn. This will allow for a better fit as well.
The down pipe's initial fitment was discouraging. It would not mate up to the turbo and looked like modifications to the firewall might be necessary. The down pipe does have a heat reflector on it to reduce the tranfer of exhaust heat to the cab. So, that was modified somewhat to see if it was possible to get the pipe mounted. It mounted but clearance to the firewall was almost zero. Ideas for the remaining clearance were a 1" body lift, the firewall mod, and ovaling out the down pipe. Honestly, I was getting a little frustrated with the clearance issues at this point and was about to take a break. I stepped back and looked at the whole project and remembered that the engine still needed to be clocked towards the driver's side. The question was how much. After some time with a level and seeing where the fan is in the shroud, it looks like it will rotate over about an inch. That should be enough clearance for the down pipe.
Now, how to clock the motor
. My engine hoist is lent out at the moment and I like it that way because there is more room in the garage. Not sure if it would be the perfect answer for clocking anyways. There is a engine hoist mount on the engine towards the front. Maybe if a ratchet strap was attached to that and anchored to something over beyond the driver's side... It is looking like it is time to get the engine in it's final mounting point and tighten it down . Is this progress? I hope so because it would be nice to hit another phase of the build process at some point. Paint and body would be nice .
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Minor update: Found a junkyard with some 67-72 Chevy truck parts. They don't advertise it either. In fact, they didn't even know they had the 72 K5. When I asked them if they had any 71 K5 doors, they said, "I don't think so. But you are welcome to check for yourself." Well, I headed out with very little expectations. After a few minutes of wading through a varied lot of derelict vehicles I saw a Blazer specific full convertible white roof off in the distance and behind some other rigs. Sure enough the roof was on a K5 and it had the doors. What were the odds they were original K5 doors though? I opened it up to check and sure enough they were original and complete. Somewhat rusty but complete. WooHoo . The plan is to use all the parts from these doors on some repro doors.
I talked to the proprietor and got a price of $80 for both negotiated. It would be up to me to get them out of there though
. They lent me the tools necessary and off I went. The easiest way to get them off was to fold up the fenders and take the bolts out of the hinges on the firewall side. Surprisingly, they put up very little of a fight and are now residing at home.
The cool thing about the K5 they came off of was that it was a standard and had the original radio and front seats. Albeit a bit rough but the frames were restorable. Felt a little guilty about opening them up to the elements. The Suburban had the front two rows of seats in it as well.
. The plan is to use all the parts from these doors on some repro doors.I talked to the proprietor and got a price of $80 for both negotiated. It would be up to me to get them out of there though
. They lent me the tools necessary and off I went. The easiest way to get them off was to fold up the fenders and take the bolts out of the hinges on the firewall side. Surprisingly, they put up very little of a fight and are now residing at home.The cool thing about the K5 they came off of was that it was a standard and had the original radio and front seats. Albeit a bit rough but the frames were restorable. Felt a little guilty about opening them up to the elements. The Suburban had the front two rows of seats in it as well.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Nice find!
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
One more piece of the puzzle found.
Now, if I could just figure out the exhaust, I could start it up
.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Sold a set of axles the other day and the guy saw the K5 and wanted to buy it. The offer is for $8K. What would you do?
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Thinking this might cure the exhaust clearance woes. The curve down happens smoother and faster on this exhaust. The rest will be a modify to fit deal.
http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr...dog-turbo-back-4-alum-rapid-flow-exhaust.html
http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr...dog-turbo-back-4-alum-rapid-flow-exhaust.html
