CK5
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71 pickup, 52s,63s boatside etc

Except the only difference with mine will be that the actualy slider wont be welded straight to the body sheet metal, I want to keep the body isolated from the cage.
 
Not alot of tech but I did get some awsome parts for christmas from my awsome fiancee!

So I had mentioned this kit a few times in the last few months and she surprised me on christmas, complete surprise.

Its the North West Fab Reverse Highsteer kit for my newly aquired Dana 60.

Afew pics

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IMG_0147_zps195eb3dc.jpg

IMG_0148_zpsaf0f42df.jpg

IMG_0149_zps1fdeb37a.jpg

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And thats it unfortunatly itll be another 3 months until another update, but itll be a big one.

Tieing up loose ends finishing boat siding and swaping in the 52s in the front

Until next time!
Narek
 
pretty
I should have done high steer myself, though I haven't bent the tierod yet. Looking at it, sitting there, it's waiting for damage :(

What reason is there for running reverse high steer? I don't mean that in a bad way either. More like "why is one considered reverse just because it's on the backside"? :D
 
The arms are definatly beefy, a friend of mine just got some Balistic fab arms and they pale in comperison. And the balistic ones are beefy to begin with.

I went with reverse for several reasons, mostly cause I want to build this axle once and I figured id want reverse at some point so thats what I was saving up for. On paper reverse sounds like a good idea but once you get them installed it looks like a genius idea haha the tierod is completly out of the way. Its definatly the way to go aslong as there are no clearence issues in your particular setup.

Narek
 
I see you're located in California but I swear I seen this truck for sale in Michigan a year or two ago because I wanted to go look at it lol
 
Great build and awesome progress brother! Way to go. Stoked for you. :waytogo:
 
Thanks Guys!
Its so cool to think that after years of lurking on here I can add something to the board.

Cili its funny that you say that because although the truck is in California im out in Wisconsin, so I may be near where the truck originated. I know the 2 previous owners though and when I first saw the truck several years ago it didnt look like what I bought it as so I doubt its the one you were looking at.
 
It may not be but I almost guarantee it is because I remember the tube bed and that it came with the long bed. I like what you did with it though.
 
I never went and looked at it in person. It had to have been Craigslist. Actually one of the first pics you posted of it from the side with the tube bed is the picture I remember seeing. Idk though its been a while
 
The arms are definatly beefy, a friend of mine just got some Balistic fab arms and they pale in comperison. And the balistic ones are beefy to begin with.

I went with reverse for several reasons, mostly cause I want to build this axle once and I figured id want reverse at some point so thats what I was saving up for. On paper reverse sounds like a good idea but once you get them installed it looks like a genius idea haha the tierod is completly out of the way. Its definatly the way to go aslong as there are no clearence issues in your particular setup.

Narek


Great protection for the tie rod, but also improves Ackerman angle and should give you tighter turning than most of the conventional "forward tie rod" setups.

I am trying for a similar setup as well, but need to get more parts installed before I'll know if it everything will actually fit where I want it.


Nice work! :thumb:



-G
 
More info on your hydro clutch?

Narek,

Nice build. :popcorn:

Can I request more info and maybe some pictures of your hydro clutch setup?

A bud of mine is stalling on his SM465 swap because he doesn't know where to begin with the hydro clutch. He even bought the Novak hydro conversion kit too. Just doesn't know where to start with it. He got a 69-72 manual pedal assembly too.

How did you figure out how/where to bolt the clutch master on the firewall?

Thanks!
Adam
 
Thanks Greg!
I didnt know it effected ackerman angle or the turning radius, thats awsome.
My steering was so vauge when I got the truck and I was hopping that the crossover would help, but im confused why it didnt have the effect I was looking for. It did get better but the steering still leaves alot to be desired and I think Im gonna have to get a panhard bar.
Any Ideas what could be causing this?


Adam
I pulled my clutch pedal assembly out of mid 80s chevy im not sure the exact year but I know that the slave cylinder was on the passenger side.
I kinda just eyeballed where I wanted the pedal to be and drilled a hole for the master cylinder to mount to.
If the truck is mostly original there may actualy be marking on the fire wall from the factory.

If not then dont worry cause it doesnt realy matter where you put it as long as its comfortable. And make sure you brace it because it WILL flex if only bolted to the firewall and make the cluch feel horrible.

Narek
 
Do a quick google search for "Ackerman steering" and you'll find plenty of info and images to help explain it.

The basic concept is that you draw lines from the center of the rear pumpkin across the knuckle pivots of the front axle. The tie rod connection points should touch that line (either ahead of the axle or behind it). As you can imagine, if the connection happens in front of the axle, the tiered will be wider than the knuckle pivot spacing, if you out the tierod behind the axle the tierod will be narrower.

The image you posted of the steering arms showed that they are slightly tapered toward the center of the truck which indicates they are probably an Ackerman-type design.


-G
 
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/ack_rac.htm
Heres a good explanation of ackerman angle it makes sense when I understand it haha

Im chompin at the bit to get back to work on this truck im about a month away from being back home for a week so I guess we'll see what I can accomplish in a few days.

Things Id like to accomplish:

Last time I was home I blew out a freeze plug and its one of the ones on the back side of the motor so Ill have to address that. Not sure if I should pull the motor or drop the tranny? Any suggestions?

Also Id like to swap in the 52s in the front and finaly get the truck alittle lower and closer to its final ride height. How many leaf springs should I leave in minimum for the 63s? currently its 5+ overload. Im thinken definatly pull the overload and leave mayby 3-4 leafs. Is 3 not enough? Any thoughts?

Possibly install a clocking ring for the tcase, that might happen if I have to drop the Tranny anyway might as well since itll be on the ground.

Weld up the hole I made for the boatsiding. I cant decide if I should hard mount the body to the boatsiding or let it be a seperate structure on body mounts. This isnt a daily driver only wheeling rig will I realy miss the body mounts? For referance my daily is a lowered miata on 500lb/in springs haha so I know what a stiff ride feels like. Just worried about the body ripping apart or cracking from frame flex but it will be fully exod so I cant imagin much flex.

Thoughts? Conciderations?

Narek
 
for the 63's it's nice having fewer for softer less inhibited flex, but when the bed is all loaded down with gear for a trip the ass end will sag, as mine did and I think i had 4 leafs in that pack.

I think i have at least 6 now and i don't like how tall it made the truck, but it still works and doesn't sag nearly as much. I'd like to lower it a bit tho still so will probably have to focus more on packing lighter
 
Im thinken I may be ok with 4 or mayby 3 plus a zero rate. My rear half is much lighter then yours currently so 3 may actualy work but im thinken after tube work and everything else like a spare and stuff 4 is definatly a posability. Ill have to analayze your set up when Im back.

Narek
 

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