What about alternator on non-AC?
CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
What about alternator on non-AC?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Whatever it was for is gone now. 
Finally some pics.
Passenger side clearance, looks like I can remove the valve cover, but haven't tried it. You would think I would have though.
Drivers side. No more factory clutch hole, but looks like I have more than an inch clearance. Just need to weld up that hole. Or I guess I could bend the cover that used to be there and make it work. All the dynamat on the other side of the firewall makes me leary of welding it, but I probably will.
Also stopped by a car show today at the local 4th of July parade, saw some cool rides.
Finally some pics.
Passenger side clearance, looks like I can remove the valve cover, but haven't tried it. You would think I would have though.
Drivers side. No more factory clutch hole, but looks like I have more than an inch clearance. Just need to weld up that hole. Or I guess I could bend the cover that used to be there and make it work. All the dynamat on the other side of the firewall makes me leary of welding it, but I probably will.
Also stopped by a car show today at the local 4th of July parade, saw some cool rides.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 07/05/2017:
Lots of UPS and Ontrac trucks at my house today. I think I finally have all the parts I need to finish up (except my shorter drivetrain issue).
My favorite delivery so far is these things. I wasn't sure I'd like them or that they'd even fit.
100% cast stainless "shorty header style" exhaust manifolds.
I happen to think they will look awesome installed. They have the "vibe" of headers and should have the hassle-less aspects of manifolds, quieter, less heat, less warping, plus they look totally "stock".
Only issue so far is they contact part of the block casting in a couple spots. I plan to just grind off the interference. I can bolt the driver side on, it I think it needs a slight clearance hit with the grinder (lower center of the photo)
The passenger side back by the firewall is worse, and I can't line up the mounting holes to bolt the manifold in. It's also close to the crossmember bolt in the second photo.
So looks like I need to do some shimming of the crossmember and shaving the block a bit but I'm pretty happy with the choice so far. I even appear to have room for my clutch slave cylinder. Looking up from under the motor. May need a heat shield but it'll at least fit.
Lots of UPS and Ontrac trucks at my house today. I think I finally have all the parts I need to finish up (except my shorter drivetrain issue).
My favorite delivery so far is these things. I wasn't sure I'd like them or that they'd even fit.
100% cast stainless "shorty header style" exhaust manifolds.
I happen to think they will look awesome installed. They have the "vibe" of headers and should have the hassle-less aspects of manifolds, quieter, less heat, less warping, plus they look totally "stock".
Only issue so far is they contact part of the block casting in a couple spots. I plan to just grind off the interference. I can bolt the driver side on, it I think it needs a slight clearance hit with the grinder (lower center of the photo)
The passenger side back by the firewall is worse, and I can't line up the mounting holes to bolt the manifold in. It's also close to the crossmember bolt in the second photo.
So looks like I need to do some shimming of the crossmember and shaving the block a bit but I'm pretty happy with the choice so far. I even appear to have room for my clutch slave cylinder. Looking up from under the motor. May need a heat shield but it'll at least fit.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
@kgblazerfive, are these worth anything or just keep as rare souvenirs? Don't see them listed on eBay but I have no need for them.
Rare thats it. Other ways to do it now but if you have a stock setup they are hard to find.
Where did you get the manifolds from?
Martin
Martin
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Speedway motors.
Ha! That makes sense.
Martin
Martin
They are pretty cool.
I like the manifolds a lot.
I need to check out Speedway. Seem to see some neat and different stuff come from them.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 7/14/2017
Nothing on the K5 to update cause we head out for a 2 week road trip camping and fishing on the way to Austin Texas (parents destination) and Disneyland (the kids vote). My old minivan keeps blowing radiator hoses and so we picked this up hoping to be a little more reliable without taking out a car loan. I may just sell it after the trip unless my wife wants to keep it.
2000 suburban with the 5.3L. Got a little over 240k miles but the AC works, it's one owner with meticulous maintanence records, and appears to be well taken care of for its age. All loaded up and ready to head out first thing in the morning. Plan is to just camp at various fun places with some kind of water nearby. Should be on highway 40 most of the way out there so if anyone's in the area, we might be able to stop and say hello. Hoping for 3 days to Austin and then slowly wind our way back over the next 9 days. Maybe see the Grand Canyon, white sands, Carlsbad caverns, Austin, San Antonio, maybe even down to corpus cristi.
Nothing on the K5 to update cause we head out for a 2 week road trip camping and fishing on the way to Austin Texas (parents destination) and Disneyland (the kids vote). My old minivan keeps blowing radiator hoses and so we picked this up hoping to be a little more reliable without taking out a car loan. I may just sell it after the trip unless my wife wants to keep it.
2000 suburban with the 5.3L. Got a little over 240k miles but the AC works, it's one owner with meticulous maintanence records, and appears to be well taken care of for its age. All loaded up and ready to head out first thing in the morning. Plan is to just camp at various fun places with some kind of water nearby. Should be on highway 40 most of the way out there so if anyone's in the area, we might be able to stop and say hello. Hoping for 3 days to Austin and then slowly wind our way back over the next 9 days. Maybe see the Grand Canyon, white sands, Carlsbad caverns, Austin, San Antonio, maybe even down to corpus cristi.
Hell yeah, sounds awesome!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 7/28/2017
Got back from the family road trip/camping trip/Disneyland visit. Got to do some camping in both a lightning storm in Arizona and a heat wave in Austin Texas.
Anyway, took the motor out one last time to install the clutch and patch up this hole on the firewall. Nothing fancy here, just hammering and grinding out a patch of steel until it fit, weld and grind flush, and paint.
Then I test fit the manifolds with my oil dipstick tube and discovered a big issue. The dipstick runs straight into the manifold! After messing with it for a few hours, I called tech support at speedway and the guy knew about the problem but didn't have any workarounds. Said it was an "oversight" when they made the castings. There's the warning for anyone else trying to use these things! So I ordered and tried one of the flexible lokar braided steel dipsticks and ground the manifold outlet a bit to try and clear it but it was obvious I couldn't grind enough to make it work. The braided tube was too thick.
I forgot to take a picture of "before" since I was so annnoyed. But I was able to use a 1/2" drill bit to slide into the oil pan fitting and tweak it with a hammer counter-clockwise a few degrees so it was aiming in a more friendly direction. Then I got out my thin tubing bender and managed to just barely squeeze the filler around the manifold outlet. I discovered that bending the filler needs to be done with a gentle bend and not any compound bends since the dipstick is flat steel, it only bends in one dimension. For reference, the lokar dipstick is a round cable so it can bend in any direction.
Once I can confirm everything fits, motor goes back in and the ORD doubler comes out so I can figure out crossmemebers and shifters again.
Got back from the family road trip/camping trip/Disneyland visit. Got to do some camping in both a lightning storm in Arizona and a heat wave in Austin Texas.
Anyway, took the motor out one last time to install the clutch and patch up this hole on the firewall. Nothing fancy here, just hammering and grinding out a patch of steel until it fit, weld and grind flush, and paint.
Then I test fit the manifolds with my oil dipstick tube and discovered a big issue. The dipstick runs straight into the manifold! After messing with it for a few hours, I called tech support at speedway and the guy knew about the problem but didn't have any workarounds. Said it was an "oversight" when they made the castings. There's the warning for anyone else trying to use these things! So I ordered and tried one of the flexible lokar braided steel dipsticks and ground the manifold outlet a bit to try and clear it but it was obvious I couldn't grind enough to make it work. The braided tube was too thick.
I forgot to take a picture of "before" since I was so annnoyed. But I was able to use a 1/2" drill bit to slide into the oil pan fitting and tweak it with a hammer counter-clockwise a few degrees so it was aiming in a more friendly direction. Then I got out my thin tubing bender and managed to just barely squeeze the filler around the manifold outlet. I discovered that bending the filler needs to be done with a gentle bend and not any compound bends since the dipstick is flat steel, it only bends in one dimension. For reference, the lokar dipstick is a round cable so it can bend in any direction.
Once I can confirm everything fits, motor goes back in and the ORD doubler comes out so I can figure out crossmemebers and shifters again.
Yikes, that is tight, even after all the dicking around with it! Spark plug wire still fit where the dipstick tube comes out?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yep, just barely. I can still get a socket on it.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update: 07/30/2017
Motor is in, clutch took some time to line up but went in, and got the slave cylinder bolted back in along with the exhaust manifolds.
The exhaust clearance to the crossmember mounts is a little close, but I will run it and see if it needs and clearancing.
Passenger side is about 1/4" with the rear most bolt.
Passenger side is about the same.
Motor is in, clutch took some time to line up but went in, and got the slave cylinder bolted back in along with the exhaust manifolds.
The exhaust clearance to the crossmember mounts is a little close, but I will run it and see if it needs and clearancing.
Passenger side is about 1/4" with the rear most bolt.
Passenger side is about the same.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 8/6/2017
Getting closer. I need the drivetrain in place in order to run exhaust and so I gave ORD a call and spoke to Steven who explained some of the details and options to get a Magnum box installed. While I'm waiting for that to be delivered, I dropped the transfer cases to separate the doubler and 203 case to drop it off for its new owner on Wednesday. Sealed up the ports and placed in perfect box for it.
Going to have to clean this thing up, I forgot how heavy these are. Nearly dropped on myself while taking it out. I had two jacks with one leg steadying each edge of the crossmemember and it must have looked really sketchy because my son who was helping me said I quote, "I think I better go get Mom!"
Transmission waiting for new transfer case.
Can't figure out how to delete this picture, so I'll explain that I found some AN adaptors that thread into the throttle body and it needed some clearancing to get the adapters threaded all the way in. Hoping this will just let me run AN hose for fuel line instead of the GM o-ring lines and fittings that require special hoses.
Getting closer. I need the drivetrain in place in order to run exhaust and so I gave ORD a call and spoke to Steven who explained some of the details and options to get a Magnum box installed. While I'm waiting for that to be delivered, I dropped the transfer cases to separate the doubler and 203 case to drop it off for its new owner on Wednesday. Sealed up the ports and placed in perfect box for it.
Going to have to clean this thing up, I forgot how heavy these are. Nearly dropped on myself while taking it out. I had two jacks with one leg steadying each edge of the crossmemember and it must have looked really sketchy because my son who was helping me said I quote, "I think I better go get Mom!"
Transmission waiting for new transfer case.
Can't figure out how to delete this picture, so I'll explain that I found some AN adaptors that thread into the throttle body and it needed some clearancing to get the adapters threaded all the way in. Hoping this will just let me run AN hose for fuel line instead of the GM o-ring lines and fittings that require special hoses.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 8/16/2017:
Right after I scheduled another short family camping trip, I got my UPS notification that a 53lb box from ORD was scheduled to arrive the day after we left. So I rescheduled the delivery for yesterday and couldn't wait to open it when it arrived at 8 at night. Steven walked me through some options on the phone, offered some advise on shifters, collected some info on my k5 and had it on my doorstep in about a week ( which was a week ahead of what was promised)
Here's my new Offroad Design Magnum Underdrive box. It is super securely packed with reinforced shipping tape. No sign of trauma to the box or contents. Impressed so far.
Inside the box is a smaller box of hardware, and the magnum underdrive gear box hardware is wrapped in plastic and then spray foamed to the inside of the box. I tried to be clever by removing some foam from the top to cleanly remove it, but eventually just ripped the box open to get it out.
There's all the parts layed out. Starting from top left and moving clockwise
1. Bag of seals and gaskets
2. 4 urethane cushions
3. Giant input gear for the np205
4. Set of general instructions (and stickers!)
5. The magnum case with planetary gear and shift lever pre-installed
6. Metal brackets (wrapped in plastic) to aid in fabricating a crossmember
7. Another bag of nuts and bolts
8. A new input bearing and clips for the np205
I couldn't find a coke can to give a size reference but this shaft is huge.
First step for installation is removing the 205 input gear. To do that you need to remove the rear output shaft housing, remove the rear output shaft (and drop all the little roller bearings as the shaft comes out, don't say you weren't warned!)
Then remove the shift collar. I had to shift the fork forward to remove the collar.
Then remove the input shaft to get where you see in this picture.
Then the giant magnum shaft goes in and the included bearing gets clipped onto the shaft and holds it in place. You can see my np205 was previously setup for use with the ORD doubler and so I have my own shift brackets that I copied from ORD before I got their shifter parts.
There's the shot of the rear of the case.
Then you load up the rear output shaft with grease and put back all the roller bearings into the "female" side of the shaft. Then gently slide the rear output over the magnum shaft making sure none of those roller bearing fall out. You should have also put the shift collar back in before this step.
Then you put all the other roller bearings that fell out back into place in the rear output housing, reinstall the housing, the speedo gear spacer and speedo gear, then the seal housing and seal.
With the rear done, we prepare to install the magnum case onto the input of the np205.
You need to remove shifter plate on top and then the 6 long Allen bolts from the front of the case and then separate the case halves. ORD was thoughtful enough to design these small
notches in the case to help split it apart with a flathead screwdriver. At least that's what I used them for and hope was intended.
Case apart
Here's where I got confused. The case half needs to be bolted to the front of the 205. I siliconed a gasket in place and then positioned the case. There's a total of 8 holes in my case ( why it's called a "figure 8" np205). 5 bolts are inside the gear box. I initially installed 8 studs here but that is WRONG. The three holes near the top of the case get standard bolts with red loctite. The two lower spots get the shorter allen head bolts also with red loctite. The last three holes get longer standard 3/8" bolts that won't tighten down all the way unless you also add the big steel "chunk" meant to be used as a crossmember mount. I didn't use loctite on these three bolts yet since I'll probably remove this plate when building the crossmember. The plate also has a side benefit of stabilizing the assembly on the bench a bit.
Then the other half of the magnum case gets bolted back in place with the 6 allen head bolts and a bead of "the right stuff" between the case halves to seal it. Bolts get blue loctite. The bolts come with antiseize on them. I initially though I needed to keep it but realized using anti-sieze and loctite together is not a good combination. So I cleaned the bolts and used loctite, although looks like this bolt needed to be cleaned better.
Shifter housing also gets bolted back in place with sealant. There's a couple front view shots.
Here's the shifter mechanism as shipped. The arm can be rotated 180 degrees if needed for shifter use. I chose to do that since my triple stick shifters seem to be easier to make work in that spot.
Here's the shifter rotated. There's a couple set screws holding it in place.
And there's the final assembly with studs in place to clock the transfer case assembly close to flat. I initially used these studs to bolt the mangnum case to the 205 since that's what my original doubler used. But after reading the instructions a few times, I figured out which bolts go where and corrected it.
So now it's ready to bolt it in place on the back of the nv4500. Then I need to move the transfer case shifters back to where they were originally. Since the motor and trans moved back 3", the magnum is about 3" shorter than the doubler system, which puts the 205 back in the same spot it was originally (saving my expensive CV driveshafts) the transfer case shifters need to move forward 3" now to stay in the same hole on the trans tunnel.
So far I'm really impressed with the build quality, sheer "beefiness" of the parts, and the weight reduction. I can lift this whole assembly myself and I couldn't lift the 203/205 assembly.
Right after I scheduled another short family camping trip, I got my UPS notification that a 53lb box from ORD was scheduled to arrive the day after we left. So I rescheduled the delivery for yesterday and couldn't wait to open it when it arrived at 8 at night. Steven walked me through some options on the phone, offered some advise on shifters, collected some info on my k5 and had it on my doorstep in about a week ( which was a week ahead of what was promised)
Here's my new Offroad Design Magnum Underdrive box. It is super securely packed with reinforced shipping tape. No sign of trauma to the box or contents. Impressed so far.
Inside the box is a smaller box of hardware, and the magnum underdrive gear box hardware is wrapped in plastic and then spray foamed to the inside of the box. I tried to be clever by removing some foam from the top to cleanly remove it, but eventually just ripped the box open to get it out.
There's all the parts layed out. Starting from top left and moving clockwise
1. Bag of seals and gaskets
2. 4 urethane cushions
3. Giant input gear for the np205
4. Set of general instructions (and stickers!)
5. The magnum case with planetary gear and shift lever pre-installed
6. Metal brackets (wrapped in plastic) to aid in fabricating a crossmember
7. Another bag of nuts and bolts
8. A new input bearing and clips for the np205
I couldn't find a coke can to give a size reference but this shaft is huge.
First step for installation is removing the 205 input gear. To do that you need to remove the rear output shaft housing, remove the rear output shaft (and drop all the little roller bearings as the shaft comes out, don't say you weren't warned!)
Then remove the shift collar. I had to shift the fork forward to remove the collar.
Then remove the input shaft to get where you see in this picture.
Then the giant magnum shaft goes in and the included bearing gets clipped onto the shaft and holds it in place. You can see my np205 was previously setup for use with the ORD doubler and so I have my own shift brackets that I copied from ORD before I got their shifter parts.
There's the shot of the rear of the case.
Then you load up the rear output shaft with grease and put back all the roller bearings into the "female" side of the shaft. Then gently slide the rear output over the magnum shaft making sure none of those roller bearing fall out. You should have also put the shift collar back in before this step.
Then you put all the other roller bearings that fell out back into place in the rear output housing, reinstall the housing, the speedo gear spacer and speedo gear, then the seal housing and seal.
With the rear done, we prepare to install the magnum case onto the input of the np205.
You need to remove shifter plate on top and then the 6 long Allen bolts from the front of the case and then separate the case halves. ORD was thoughtful enough to design these small
notches in the case to help split it apart with a flathead screwdriver. At least that's what I used them for and hope was intended.
Case apart
Here's where I got confused. The case half needs to be bolted to the front of the 205. I siliconed a gasket in place and then positioned the case. There's a total of 8 holes in my case ( why it's called a "figure 8" np205). 5 bolts are inside the gear box. I initially installed 8 studs here but that is WRONG. The three holes near the top of the case get standard bolts with red loctite. The two lower spots get the shorter allen head bolts also with red loctite. The last three holes get longer standard 3/8" bolts that won't tighten down all the way unless you also add the big steel "chunk" meant to be used as a crossmember mount. I didn't use loctite on these three bolts yet since I'll probably remove this plate when building the crossmember. The plate also has a side benefit of stabilizing the assembly on the bench a bit.
Then the other half of the magnum case gets bolted back in place with the 6 allen head bolts and a bead of "the right stuff" between the case halves to seal it. Bolts get blue loctite. The bolts come with antiseize on them. I initially though I needed to keep it but realized using anti-sieze and loctite together is not a good combination. So I cleaned the bolts and used loctite, although looks like this bolt needed to be cleaned better.
Shifter housing also gets bolted back in place with sealant. There's a couple front view shots.
Here's the shifter mechanism as shipped. The arm can be rotated 180 degrees if needed for shifter use. I chose to do that since my triple stick shifters seem to be easier to make work in that spot.
Here's the shifter rotated. There's a couple set screws holding it in place.
And there's the final assembly with studs in place to clock the transfer case assembly close to flat. I initially used these studs to bolt the mangnum case to the 205 since that's what my original doubler used. But after reading the instructions a few times, I figured out which bolts go where and corrected it.
So now it's ready to bolt it in place on the back of the nv4500. Then I need to move the transfer case shifters back to where they were originally. Since the motor and trans moved back 3", the magnum is about 3" shorter than the doubler system, which puts the 205 back in the same spot it was originally (saving my expensive CV driveshafts) the transfer case shifters need to move forward 3" now to stay in the same hole on the trans tunnel.
So far I'm really impressed with the build quality, sheer "beefiness" of the parts, and the weight reduction. I can lift this whole assembly myself and I couldn't lift the 203/205 assembly.
Congrats on the Magnum. It's a very nice piece of gear.
David
David
