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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

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This triple shifter design you should keep pretty confidential, so that you can market & mass-produce. :D I am quite sure that it would sell like crazy!! Of course, I would want one.

I figured you'd have that worked out, maybe it was just the angle.

Well, if you have an extra..... I'm not close to doing the conversion, but I'm always looking for parts to collect along the way. If you just posted up the drawing in a .pdf and/or a .dxf/.dwg, I'd be good with that.

.....But if you're handing them out, I'd take one. Tell me how much & where to send the shipping to. :laugh:

I totally dig how clean that has turned out & am stoked that it pretty much bolted together.

You never know, maybe you should offer a kit? Everybody wants a NV4500. It's pretty much the perfect tranny.

Later,
Buddy
 
I thought I'd post the drawing for the clutch slave cylinder bracket. It's in several different formats and should be easy for anyone to machine up.

I did see a 465 bellhousing yesterday as well and it looks like it would work ok with that too for converting to a hydro clutch.
 

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  • bracket.zip
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So how's this going? Just wanting to know if you wrapped it all up.

Later,
Buddy
 
I literally just finished fixing a blown head gasket 2 hours ago.

It's not quite done yet. The x-case shifters are still not present. My biggest problem at the moment is finding a shifter boot that looks stock! The one that comes with the 465 has a big step in it since it butts right up against the tranny hump under the heater. Since my shifter is about 6 inches further back, I need a boot without the lip. This had me thinking of other options like... Moving the engine forward to match the old shifter location.

The implications are the driveshafts would need to be corrected again $$$, and I'd have to ensure the doubler adaptor doesn't interfere with the body, which it looks like it might.

But once I move the motor forward, in the spirit of "might-as-well", since my head gasket was blown, and the motor is only a 327, I started toying with the idea of a big block and found a good TBI 454 for a good deal and was going to use that as an excuse to "fix" all that other stuff. That's how my brain works sometimes. :doah:

Anyhow, I decided to stick to a small block and found a numbers matching 4bolt main 350 for $250 in really good shape. Good shape= it's really clean with not much dirt visible.

I'm planning to sell the 327 and try to come out even. The 327 is an old small journal crank for a 67 chevelle and just doesn't have the torque I want. Plus I don't have a lot of confidance in the kid who "rebuilt" it so I'm looking for a new one.

Now that the head gasket is fixed, I can pick up the 350 motor and get back to the transfer case shifters. When I get stuck on the shifters, I can take switch back and forth between the motor and the shifters.
 
Glad to hear you had it mobile!! That is a great feeling. Then you tear it down again. Hmmm sounds like somebody else I know.

Great build thread. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Maybe Moab???
 
Yea, I've learned from the past a bit in that I'm going to try and keep it in running condition and work in stages. It's running again with the new head gasket so I can pick up the replacement motor in the back. I'm going to keep it together until the new motor is ready to swap.

I've started a small guage project now with updated guages similar to Greg and Burt, but more focuesed on stock appearance. I'll post pics when they're ready.
 
It's all looking good.....and it has to be a great feeling to finally get the "payoff" of a great driving experience! :waytogo:

Just promise yourself that you'll hit a Pick-N-Pull for a new center tunnel, or weld up the one you have soon before all that tape turns to a melted sticky mess!!!! You'll be sorry..... :yikes:


:usaflag:
 
weld up the one you have soon before all that tape turns to a melted sticky mess
Click to expand...

Yep, I did finish that but haven't put up any pictures. I was trying to figure out where to place the transfer case shifter. The new tranny shifter interferes with the old x-case shifter location so I have to be creative on where it goes.
 
Here's a pic of the tranny cover repair. I had to weld in two patches because my tape measure skills aren't always the best. I also have a sm465 boot temporarily placed there. I'm thinking it might actually work ok even with the odd lip on it. It'll depend on how I end up working out the doubler shifters.

You can also see an opening at the bottom where I had to cut the floor a bit. And also hammered a lump over part of the 203 range box that sticks up a bit. I still need to weld in a patch for it, but it doesn't look too bad.

shifter.jpg
 
Heh heh..... that shift pattern will confuse any potential thief!
 
Update: So I know a picture of an empty engine bay is kinda lame, but my new motor sounds like it's almost ready so this one had to come out. I thought it was cool I could see the original factory chaulk marking behind the engine after it came out. Edit: I just realized you can't see them in the picture.

You can also see the oil and clutch filings in the bottom of the bellhousing. Not sure if I should run with the old flywheel or not.

I think I'm going to give in and move the engine forward 3 inches to both gain some rear driveshaft length and some additional room on the tranny tunnel to mount the x-case shifter(s). If I'm real lucky, I might even be able to make the front and rear driveshafts the same size.

Motor 003.jpg

Motor 004.jpg
 
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You should bring me the flywheel tomorrow and i'll resurface it for you. You can also bring me those intake bolts if they showed up today. Even if they didn't show up you could still bring me the flywheel and check out your engine.
 
Motor almost ready

New motor is 99% assembled and ready to install. You will notice a few extra wires running around that are used for the TBI swapped in to replace the quadrajet. :D Might as well...

I have to say Scott "4x4HIGH" did some excellent work building this motor in a really short timeframe and has been answering tons of questions for me as I get this thing ready...:bow:

One last big task is figuring out how I want to run the fuel lines. I just replaced the brake and fuel lines on the frame with stainless versions last year so I'd like to avoid cutting them up. So the plan at the moment is to run them right back down towards where they would be if it still had a mechanical fuel pump.

motor350 001.jpg

motor350 005.jpg
 
Also, now that the clutch is accessible, I've been working on ways to fix the throw out bearing issues I was having earlier. I've never liked using the extra long throwout bearing I was using. It works much better than the standard version, but was a little too long.

I'd found that it almost couldn't release enough so the bearing felt like it might not be completely disengaging from the clutch plate.

So when I took the motor out, I found grease slung all around in the bellhousing and on my new clutch. It looks like the suspicion I had may have been right. :doah:

So I got a standard size bearing and test fit it in there to see what I could do to get a better shift fork geometry that allows the clutch to fully disengage and engage.

If you look in the picture, I unscrewed the pivot ball about 0.3 inches. You can see the gap between the two red lines. It gives me pretty close to the same engagement as the earlier larger bearing. The problem is that there is only about 1/4" of threads engaged with the bellhousing so I need to figure out a way to correct for that.

I've seen adjustable ball pivots, but they all seem to be for the stamped steel type forks, not the cast iron versions which uses a full ball pivot. I'll post back when I figure out what the options are.

clutch-2 003.jpg
 
What's taking you so long? You picked that thing up a week ago friday. Thought you would have it in and running by now. :haha:
 
I think you can buy a new pivot ball at just about any parts store. I'm fairly certain that you can get them with a longer "shank", making the stud longer achieving what you need.
 
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