bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Is this the first-gen burb? 
Ah, I'd never be able to make that happen.
Ah, I'd never be able to make that happen.CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
Is this the first-gen burb?
Come on Brian, you know you want it. Yes it is a 72 Burb.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'm doing everything I can to allow my wife to let me keep what I got...
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update: Rust repair update
Rust Repair part 2
In preparation for the cage build, I've had to get started on the other side of the rocker area to repair the rust.
The old rocker panel has lots of rust bubbles and had been patched with body filler by the previous owners. Here's what I started with:
First step is to remove the outer rocker panel. I don't have a spot weld drill, but I've found a 5/8 drill bit works fairly well as a substitute. I was able to locate most of the factory welds and drill through the outer layer of steel to break them loose. Since the panel was mostly rusted, the only welds left were at the front and rear of the panel.
Then it was just a matter of peeling the panel back making sure not to tear anything off I wanted to keep.
Once the rocker panel was left hanging down, I found the actual rocker box was is pretty good shape. Just surface rust and the welds on the bottom were actually very strong. My trick here was a rubber mallet on a chisel to break the spot welds without damaging the rocker box.
Rust Repair part 2
In preparation for the cage build, I've had to get started on the other side of the rocker area to repair the rust.
The old rocker panel has lots of rust bubbles and had been patched with body filler by the previous owners. Here's what I started with:
First step is to remove the outer rocker panel. I don't have a spot weld drill, but I've found a 5/8 drill bit works fairly well as a substitute. I was able to locate most of the factory welds and drill through the outer layer of steel to break them loose. Since the panel was mostly rusted, the only welds left were at the front and rear of the panel.
Then it was just a matter of peeling the panel back making sure not to tear anything off I wanted to keep.
Once the rocker panel was left hanging down, I found the actual rocker box was is pretty good shape. Just surface rust and the welds on the bottom were actually very strong. My trick here was a rubber mallet on a chisel to break the spot welds without damaging the rocker box.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
And here's what it looks like with the outer rocker panel removed.
The next obvious part that needed to go was the front A pillar support. Note that I do not have any door braces installed, but I did spend 2 weeks repairing the hardtop enough so it could be bolted down and support the windshield during this repair. It seems to be holding fine.
Once I got that started, it was obvious the inner rocker panel would be more work to save than to replace it. My patch panel will replace this whole area.
After lots of work with an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, here's what it looks like with most of the bad stuff cut away. I had to be careful to note the 4 different layers of metal in that area and not damage the metal reinforcing plate that supports the front fender bolt. For some reason, those aren't reproduced. I don't have a picture, but it was in decent shape.
That's it for now. Even though this pillar support was completely compromised by rust, I noticed that the body has a good amount of movement in that area after I cut the junk out. Even a couple of rusty bolts were enough to stiffen it up a little bit.
I've ordered a few more patch panels today so I hope to make more progress next week.
The next obvious part that needed to go was the front A pillar support. Note that I do not have any door braces installed, but I did spend 2 weeks repairing the hardtop enough so it could be bolted down and support the windshield during this repair. It seems to be holding fine.
Once I got that started, it was obvious the inner rocker panel would be more work to save than to replace it. My patch panel will replace this whole area.
After lots of work with an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, here's what it looks like with most of the bad stuff cut away. I had to be careful to note the 4 different layers of metal in that area and not damage the metal reinforcing plate that supports the front fender bolt. For some reason, those aren't reproduced. I don't have a picture, but it was in decent shape.
That's it for now. Even though this pillar support was completely compromised by rust, I noticed that the body has a good amount of movement in that area after I cut the junk out. Even a couple of rusty bolts were enough to stiffen it up a little bit.
I've ordered a few more patch panels today so I hope to make more progress next week.
Ahhhhh...... the memories!
I'm sure you will be happy to put this part of the project behind you. There is nothing less sexy than rust-repair. Especially when it's holding up a more FUN part of your project.
You're a brave man to cut out the metal before ordering the new parts. Those A-pillar supports were on a long backorder when I wanted them, so hopefully you don't end up with some rediculous delay from the mfr.
I'm sure you will be happy to put this part of the project behind you. There is nothing less sexy than rust-repair. Especially when it's holding up a more FUN part of your project.
You're a brave man to cut out the metal before ordering the new parts. Those A-pillar supports were on a long backorder when I wanted them, so hopefully you don't end up with some rediculous delay from the mfr.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yikes, I didn't actually check but my order supposedly went through fine. They were $11 at the truck shop in so cal. But then you get free shipping on orders over $250 so I had to find some extra parts.
The extra stuff was to help with the next fun project of converting the double wall hardtop to a hybrid single wall. We'll see if it works, but there seems to be a high likelyhood of failure.
Edit: I checked my order and everything is good. Whew!
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subscribed, what an inspiration to get my truck running. I Need to check this thing out in person, whole new animal than the last time I saw it. Btw, finally got that old th350 up and running in my buddies trail rig 72, thanks btw, that thing is cherry even did a couple test runs. Also got the leaky 327 resealed up and running in a 29 model A rat rod, made more power than the 283 and has a better oil pan seal than the rope seals of the early 283's. Btw, if you need any help, my truck is now in San Martin and go there frequently to mess with it, could easliy swing by to help.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
It's nice that the motor and tranny went to a good use. It would be cool to see that thing run. I have to admit I miss the gas mileage of the 327 a bit.
Unfortunately I now have several projects going at the same time, rust repair, Dana60, lockers/gears, cage, hardtop... it just never seems to end. The rust repair has been holding up a lot of progress until now.
Unfortunately I now have several projects going at the same time, rust repair, Dana60, lockers/gears, cage, hardtop... it just never seems to end. The rust repair has been holding up a lot of progress until now.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update: Rust must go.
I got a few hours again after work trying to remove the rusted floor support. Here's the amount of floor removal I was trying to stick to. Just enough to replace the floor support.
Once I started removing the surface rust paint, and carpet glue, I started to feel discouraged by more rust than I expected. This is the big body bolt in the floor pan and most of the whole floor on that side is not much better.
I knew I'd have trouble welding to rusted metal like that so I found a bigger floor pan patch and removed the rusty junk.
I had purchased one of these truck inner panels a while back knowing I'd be doing this someday. It's actually a decent piece of aftermarket metal. I had to trim off the front and back, but the holes in the A-Pillar lined up about perfect once it was trimmed down.
The larger floor pan patch was not quite as nice of a fit. You can see that after I drilled the hole for the body mount bolt (in the recessed pocket of the panel), the other vertical folds were about 1/2" off. Also, the diameter of the recess for the bolt is just slightly too small. Argh!
Since the two vertical forms seem to line up pretty well with my lower rocker panel, I decided to move the hole over. The problem is that I want to keep the structure of the metal intact . I could probably just cut the old recess out and weld it back in over, but I thought I'd try flattening out the area and recreating the recess so it's large enough and in the right spot.
I got a few hours again after work trying to remove the rusted floor support. Here's the amount of floor removal I was trying to stick to. Just enough to replace the floor support.
Once I started removing the surface rust paint, and carpet glue, I started to feel discouraged by more rust than I expected. This is the big body bolt in the floor pan and most of the whole floor on that side is not much better.
I knew I'd have trouble welding to rusted metal like that so I found a bigger floor pan patch and removed the rusty junk.
I had purchased one of these truck inner panels a while back knowing I'd be doing this someday. It's actually a decent piece of aftermarket metal. I had to trim off the front and back, but the holes in the A-Pillar lined up about perfect once it was trimmed down.
The larger floor pan patch was not quite as nice of a fit. You can see that after I drilled the hole for the body mount bolt (in the recessed pocket of the panel), the other vertical folds were about 1/2" off. Also, the diameter of the recess for the bolt is just slightly too small. Argh!
Since the two vertical forms seem to line up pretty well with my lower rocker panel, I decided to move the hole over. The problem is that I want to keep the structure of the metal intact . I could probably just cut the old recess out and weld it back in over, but I thought I'd try flattening out the area and recreating the recess so it's large enough and in the right spot.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
So I tried flattening out the recess but pressing it flat again, pretty easy on the press. I did have to do some hammering as it didn't go completely flat right away.
To recreate the recess in the right spot, I found a socket that happens to be the correct inside diameter. I will need to find some heavy pipe at the hardware store tomorrow to help form the outside diameter.
I should also have a nice clean front dana 60 axle back home tomorrow as well. Since the rust repair is pretty loud with grinders and sanders, I need another way to make progress that is quiet enough to work on at night.
To recreate the recess in the right spot, I found a socket that happens to be the correct inside diameter. I will need to find some heavy pipe at the hardware store tomorrow to help form the outside diameter.
I should also have a nice clean front dana 60 axle back home tomorrow as well. Since the rust repair is pretty loud with grinders and sanders, I need another way to make progress that is quiet enough to work on at night.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Moving the hole Part 2:
I was able to find an appropriate die for the back side of the body mount recess at the hardware store for $3.99. It's 2" steel pipe plug and is just about the size of the back side of the form.
And here's how it's used to press the socket down into the metal plug without breaking the sheet metal. Or at least that's how it's supposed to work.
I didn't quite have the socket and plug centered and so it tore out on one side a bit. It wasn't a huge problem but did require it to be welded up. Here's what the newly formed recess looks like.
And here's the final shot of everything lining up like it's supposed to.
I was able to find an appropriate die for the back side of the body mount recess at the hardware store for $3.99. It's 2" steel pipe plug and is just about the size of the back side of the form.
And here's how it's used to press the socket down into the metal plug without breaking the sheet metal. Or at least that's how it's supposed to work.
I didn't quite have the socket and plug centered and so it tore out on one side a bit. It wasn't a huge problem but did require it to be welded up. Here's what the newly formed recess looks like.
And here's the final shot of everything lining up like it's supposed to.
Nice Fix!
Only a concours judge will be able to tell the difference.
Clever!..... keep going.
Clever!..... keep going.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update: I'm confused
So as I was preparing the different patch panels to fit on the body, I noticed the hinge hole area on the A-Pillar had a couple tears in it. Ugh, it never seems to stop.
I did the standard drill holes at edges and grind out the torn metal and welded it back up.
Here you can see where I'm confused. The inner cab patch panel appears to overlap the inner rocker panel like I have shown. The confusing part is that it looks like the two lower holes in the corner post don't sit flush against the inner rocker panel. (There's a small gap at the bottom)
When I look at my early pictures, I can see evidence of this same strip of metal near the top two holes and it just looks like the factory didn't mind that. Anyone else see this or have any idea if I'm putting this together right?
So as I was preparing the different patch panels to fit on the body, I noticed the hinge hole area on the A-Pillar had a couple tears in it. Ugh, it never seems to stop.
I did the standard drill holes at edges and grind out the torn metal and welded it back up.
Here you can see where I'm confused. The inner cab patch panel appears to overlap the inner rocker panel like I have shown. The confusing part is that it looks like the two lower holes in the corner post don't sit flush against the inner rocker panel. (There's a small gap at the bottom)
When I look at my early pictures, I can see evidence of this same strip of metal near the top two holes and it just looks like the factory didn't mind that. Anyone else see this or have any idea if I'm putting this together right?
Is it just that the flange from the interior patch panel is creating the gap, or are you talking about something else? Remember too, that rocker panel part is not for a Blazer, it's for a pickup truck. It's nice because it replaces two separate parts, but it also may need some "tweaking" for the Blazer application.
I never liked the way the factory did that intersection from the kickpanel to the floor....that "tucked-in" crease seems to invite water to creep in and just initiates rust. My plan is to flip those patch panels around (use passenger side one on driver's side) so that the flange ends up flat along the interior floor where I can spot weld it and apply a bit of seam sealer to keep the water out. The effect in the corner will be more of a nice sealed radius of metal, instead of a pinched seam.
Don't know if any of that made sense?
I never liked the way the factory did that intersection from the kickpanel to the floor....that "tucked-in" crease seems to invite water to creep in and just initiates rust. My plan is to flip those patch panels around (use passenger side one on driver's side) so that the flange ends up flat along the interior floor where I can spot weld it and apply a bit of seam sealer to keep the water out. The effect in the corner will be more of a nice sealed radius of metal, instead of a pinched seam.
Don't know if any of that made sense?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yep, that's what I was talking about. I do know the inner rocker comes from a truck, but it does look like it's close to what I had in there. I suppose some of these parts could have already been replaced, but it looked pretty original. I'll have to ponder this one a bit and decide.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update: Seat mount modifications
A small bit of info not everyone seems to know is that there's two different styles of seats. The more popular bucket seats with a shallow hole mounting pattern on the floor and something called a "utility bucket" that has a deeper mounting pattern like a bench seat.
Mine was setup for this bench style and I had since acquired the regular buckets so I needed to add the shallower hole pattern in the floor. The holes are spotwelded to a bracket that's welded underneath the floor inside the rocker box.
Here's the spot circled in red needing attention:
Here's a shot of the new bracket welded in. It's just 1/8" plate with two weld nuts and some bends. The new bracket is on the left.
And here's the new holes. Pretty boring I know.
I also got a start on getting things back together and welded in the floor support on the inside. I just used the same welding locations as I was able to locate on the old one.
Next up is rust protecting the areas not getting welded up later and start fitting the new parts on.
A small bit of info not everyone seems to know is that there's two different styles of seats. The more popular bucket seats with a shallow hole mounting pattern on the floor and something called a "utility bucket" that has a deeper mounting pattern like a bench seat.
Mine was setup for this bench style and I had since acquired the regular buckets so I needed to add the shallower hole pattern in the floor. The holes are spotwelded to a bracket that's welded underneath the floor inside the rocker box.
Here's the spot circled in red needing attention:
Here's a shot of the new bracket welded in. It's just 1/8" plate with two weld nuts and some bends. The new bracket is on the left.
And here's the new holes. Pretty boring I know.
I also got a start on getting things back together and welded in the floor support on the inside. I just used the same welding locations as I was able to locate on the old one.
Next up is rust protecting the areas not getting welded up later and start fitting the new parts on.
Well, you solved a long-running mystery for me... I'd posted up YEARS ago trying to figure out what that extra set of holes was for. (Feb 2005 to be exact!)
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129021&highlight=extra+holes
...and January 2003:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60790&highlight=extra+holes
Funny thing is that I actually USE the rear set of utility mount holes for my regular seats, and then fabricated a new front mount to compensate. I still can't figure out why more people don't complain about limited seat adjustment in these trucks. I'm only 5'9" and the factory setup makes me feel like I'm sitting waaaaay to close, even with the seat pushed all the way back. I've checked the seat tracks a number of times to confirm that they are working properly and giving me full travel.
I guess in the old days, people loved driving with the steering wheel against their chest.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129021&highlight=extra+holes
...and January 2003:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60790&highlight=extra+holes
Funny thing is that I actually USE the rear set of utility mount holes for my regular seats, and then fabricated a new front mount to compensate. I still can't figure out why more people don't complain about limited seat adjustment in these trucks. I'm only 5'9" and the factory setup makes me feel like I'm sitting waaaaay to close, even with the seat pushed all the way back. I've checked the seat tracks a number of times to confirm that they are working properly and giving me full travel.
I guess in the old days, people loved driving with the steering wheel against their chest.
It's like fitting a mashed up puzzle back together at best.
Using the truck inner rockers is a much better repair than the cheesy flat plate blazer ones without the A-pillar holes in it, hands down.
If it helps any, here's a couple pics of the exact same repiar I did last year with the same part your using.
I welded the nuts inside of the torsion boxes and used the factory bolts in an effort to keep things looking stock.
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