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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

Update: Stereo rebuild

Since the new electrical system is about complete, I decided to rebuild the stereo which I built in this other thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1897503#post1897503

The problem was that the mounting brackets I built weren't really keeping the unit lined up in the dash "hole" anymore and it was really difficult to deal with the wiring so i removed it from the dash and set about looking for some kind of way to actually mount it using the two radio "knob" locations in the dash.

Turns out a 7/8" compression fitting is just about the right size to fit within the holes in the dash. After some cutting and drilling some aluminum angle stock, I came up with this:
radio 009.jpg

The plan is to fasten the radio and the faceplate to a rigid aluminum frame that attaches exactly the same as the stock radio. The two holes in the front and a single hangar in the back kinda like this:
radio 007.jpg
radio 006.jpg

More to come later. I even finished the rear bumper enough to bolt it back together and drive it.

radio 009.jpg

radio 007.jpg

radio 006.jpg
 
Update 07/24/11 - Radio finished

The radio was 95% finished a while back and I never got around to posting pictures.

Here it is installed. I still need to find another knob for the right side and cut down the brass nuts that hold the radio into the two holes.
radio 011.jpg

Here's the panel in the glove compartment that I added a small line-in plug for the radio.
radio 012.jpg

A passenger can plug in their iphone to that plug or I also have a small blue-tooth audio adaptor that plugs into the DC power socket right next to it which can push audio through that plug as well. All I have to do is get in the truck and my phone connects to the stereo automatically and I can play tunes from my phone. So far the bluetooth quality from my iPhone kinda sucks. I'm not sure if it's the phone or the adaptor though. Anyone who knows about that stuff can feel free to recommend some better options.

radio 011.jpg

radio 012.jpg
 
Update 7/24/11 - Detachable rear seat

This is a bit of a sandbagged update. Since I use my truck for dual purpose wheeling and hauling junk around, I end up taking my back seat out a lot and then putting it back in for when I want to haul more than 2 people.

Removing the seat is a big deal because there's 4 big bolts on the back brackets and while they are easy to remove, getting them back in is always a pain because the brackets don't line up with the holes in the bed and so you end up prying the seat in different directions and fooling around with it for 1/2 an hour. It's also inconvienient to get out the tools to remove it when my minivan can have the back seat out in 30 seconds.

So here's what I came up with to allow me to remove the seat without any tools:

It starts with a 2"x.120 DOM tube cut down it's length and a 3/16" flat plate. The tube and plate were cut such that when the plate is bolted down to the bed, it holds the tube down against the floor. I don't have a good reason for doing it this way except to ensure that if the weld fails, that there's some other way for that tube to stay in place. The plate uses two of the existing seat mounting bolt holes.
seat brackets 001.jpg
seat brackets 002.jpg

Here's a view of the concept mockup I made to test the assembly. On top of the previous tube/plate, I welded two sections of 1.75" tube on each end. The center area will then hold another longer piece of 1.75" tube. That center tube will be what the seat is attached to. When the seat tube is dropped down into place, another long 1.25" tube can be inserted through the whole assembly and lock everything into place. This concept turned out to be somewhat flawed because once you weld such close toleranced DOM, the tube shrinks or warps a little and the tubes don't slide into each other very well. I ended up having to drill out the inside of the tube with a metal hole saw and then sand down the tube "pin" a little to get things to slide together eaier.
seat brackets 005.jpg

Here's one side after final test fitting and painting
seat brackets 021.jpg

And a shot of the structure underneath the seat. I used all the stock bolt locations on the seat and simply made small brackets that attached the tueb structure to those mounting points.
seat brackets 016.jpg

seat brackets 001.jpg

seat brackets 002.jpg

seat brackets 005.jpg

seat brackets 021.jpg

seat brackets 016.jpg
 
Some various closer up shots of the seat brackets. The seat belts attach to the cross tube with some grade 8 bolts. All the bolt holes were reinforced with a smaller tube to keep the tube from crushing when the bolts are tightened.
seat brackets 017.jpg

seat brackets 018.jpg

seat brackets 011.jpg

seat brackets 019.jpg

seat brackets 020.jpg

seat brackets 017.jpg

seat brackets 018.jpg

seat brackets 011.jpg

seat brackets 019.jpg

seat brackets 020.jpg
 
Once the brackets were bolted down to the bed, the seat drops right down into place. It's locked in place from front/back by the two 1.75" tubes shown earlier. I've placed the locking "pins" behind the seat.
seat brackets 012.jpg


A closer up shot.
seat brackets 013.jpg


The pin gets installed and locks everything in place. The long locking pin tube has a section of tube welded on the end as a handle to pull the tube out easier. Even with all the sanding I did, the tubes are still slightly tight once installed. I may try and lube the insides of the tube to both prevent rust and make installation easier. I used a small lynch pin and clip to keep the tube from backing out unexpectedly. It doesn't provide any structure to hold the seat in place though.
seat brackets 010.jpg


And a final shot of the bed with the seat installed. I can remove the seat in about 30 seconds, although it weighs a bunch more now. I'd like to find some small wheels that would let me slide in back similar to my minivan. I'm lazy that way. :)
seat brackets 009.jpg

I also moved the seat forward about 6 inches to keep peoples head farther away from my cage tubes. My kids carseats fit perfectly back there now and there should be very few excuses as to why we can't make it to Moab in Sept. The only big repair I still need to make is to replace the gas tank sender plug that came off during the re-wire.

seat brackets 012.jpg

seat brackets 013.jpg

seat brackets 010.jpg

seat brackets 009.jpg
 
Nice work! Clever solution.....

I had that same shrinking DOM experience on my swing out tire carrier. Once the welds cooled it was a ridiculously tight interference fit and wouldn't move.... Even with 4 feet of leverage from the hanger bar. I'm sure there is probably a spec somewhere for the correct looseness for sleeved DOM so that when you weld it the result is perfect.

:usaflag:
 
Thanks! The tube supply shop has various wall thicknesses that I think might work better for something like this. I think something like .010" diameter clearance (which is double what I had) might be about right and only require a bit of polishing to get a nice fit.

The other related problem is that the bed bolt plate had a gap underneath the bed that would force the seat plate to bend a tiny bit when the bolts are torqued down. That was also causing the pin to lock up and not want to slide out. I had to shim that long bolt plate under the bed to eliminate that problem.

I still may try and add some hooks for the kids car seats which have a strap that goes over the top of the seat and provides some extra fastening power.

-Brian
 
I agree tethers would be a good idea for the kids seats.

Yea, ideally I'd like to add some short straps that clip onto a tab bolted to the floor and then to the seat.

It might also make sense to just have the seat belts clip directly onto bolts on the floor that way my seat structure only has to hold itself in place and the seatbelts can do the work of holding the people. I'm just less confidant of the clips being reliable or more likely I might forget to clip them on.


-Brian
 
Subscribin so i can go back thru and read it all start to finish. Always wondered if you had a build thread
 
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Update: 07/30/11 - CB installed

The original reason for modifying the bumper was to install a CB antenna. And there it is.
cb 001.jpg

This uses a quick release mount so I can leave it off most of the time and install it when needed. It sits between the tailgate and the tail light. I just ran the antenna wire along the frame rail. It's mostly hidden when the antenna is removed.
cb 002.jpg

I did need to notch the bumper a little for it to poke through.:
cb 003.jpg

And since I now had an antenna, I needed a radio to connect it to. The cobra 29 LTD is what I chose. It has the extra chrome bling to help match some of the 70's chrome interior I'm sportin'. :)
cb 004.jpg

So far after some testing, the reception is tons better than my hand-held cb I had been using. Some of most entertaining parts of the trails in Moab last year was listening to other people bs about stuff while I was cruising down the trails. This should ensure I don't miss any of the good stuff. I also fixed the gas tank sending unit I broke during the re-wire. I'm now all set for a super vacation starting out with BlazerBash, some Grand Canyon, and followed up with a day at Disneyland all with the wife and two kids in tow for over 2000 miles of memories at 12 mpg. It'll be a blast!

cb 001.jpg

cb 002.jpg

cb 003.jpg

cb 004.jpg
 
Looks Good Brian. I have the 29 LTD also. I do need to upgrade my antennae though.

I remember talking to you about the radio last year. The mag mount isn't working so well? The 29ltd was a favorite among almost everyone I have talked to. My only issue is to figure out where to mount the mic.

-Brian
 
mag mount works but I think more of a permanent type mount might work better. I also saw an antennae the other day with a big bubble thing part way up the whip. I am curious about that style.
 
Don't forget the perforated tennis ball mounted an the antenna to protect the paint on the tailgate (and probably your sanity so you don't hear the slappity slappity slap of the antenna banging against your truck while wheeling)

I am supremely jealous of you and your upcoming trips!


:usaflag:
 
Don't forget the perforated tennis ball...

I hadn't thought of that, but it would definitely drive me nuts! I don't have any tennis balls, but my father probably has some expired racquet balls. I wonder if those would work...




-Brian
 
I am supremely jealous of you and your upcoming trips.

It'll be fun, but really "challenging" since my kid is just starting his potty training and is freaked out over any bathroom other than ours. He literally shakes with fear when I bring him in a public restroom! It's hilarious, but I have a feeling we'll have lots of emergency stops to change underwear.


-Brian
 
just read the whole thread start to finish. awesome rig you have man.
def agree with King Muffler being the place to go. Mike is awesome and has done an exhaust on every vehicle i've owned since i lived in MH. and a few others. Pac Fab is awesome too.

i love some of the ideas you've had. a lot of real simple ideas that worked out really really well.
probably gonna steal your research on the heat soak issue.
 
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