Saw the last 2 pictures when the page loaded and got confused. Thought I had loaded a thread in which someone was building a battle axe or something! LOL
CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Klingon "battlef" maybe? Haha.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 4/26/2016
I cut up the other vise jaw I bought into a curved tool to form the ends of the bracket into the right shape. These worked really well.
Test fitting it on the windshield header. Fits really well. The two tabs near the center of the windshield will be bent down and get a hole in them to bolt to the stock hard top holes.
And if no one remembers how this works and thought it was a primitive weapon, the front edge of the fabric top has a plastic rib in it that slides under the bent lip on the bracket. Once the fabric is tightened up at the back, the plastic rib isn't able to bend around the bracket and so it prevents the fabric from pulling out of the bracket.
Here's a test fit. I added a couple snaps to my old fabric top to keep it from shifting left or right but this new bracket is design to not require any snaps. The result is a soft top header bracket that bolts down to the stock hardtop holes and doesn't require any drilling of my windshield header which inevitably causes rust.
The final soft top won't have the snaps but you can kinda see how it works. The lip I formed on the front edge needs to be a little farther down at the sides but you can see how it follows the body contour pretty well.
Decided to try and salvage the windshield frame. Plan is to get some various shaped wire brush attachments for a drill to get as much rust removed from the inside. Then coat it with some rust stopping chemicals and seal it up from the elements.
I cut up the other vise jaw I bought into a curved tool to form the ends of the bracket into the right shape. These worked really well.
Test fitting it on the windshield header. Fits really well. The two tabs near the center of the windshield will be bent down and get a hole in them to bolt to the stock hard top holes.
And if no one remembers how this works and thought it was a primitive weapon, the front edge of the fabric top has a plastic rib in it that slides under the bent lip on the bracket. Once the fabric is tightened up at the back, the plastic rib isn't able to bend around the bracket and so it prevents the fabric from pulling out of the bracket.
Here's a test fit. I added a couple snaps to my old fabric top to keep it from shifting left or right but this new bracket is design to not require any snaps. The result is a soft top header bracket that bolts down to the stock hardtop holes and doesn't require any drilling of my windshield header which inevitably causes rust.
The final soft top won't have the snaps but you can kinda see how it works. The lip I formed on the front edge needs to be a little farther down at the sides but you can see how it follows the body contour pretty well.
Decided to try and salvage the windshield frame. Plan is to get some various shaped wire brush attachments for a drill to get as much rust removed from the inside. Then coat it with some rust stopping chemicals and seal it up from the elements.
Z71paramedic made some header brackets just like that a few years ago. I bought one and love it. It was nice to eliminate those holes.
Yeah I wasn't sure how many would get that reference.
His rendition is quite a bit nicer than mine. Looks killer.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I think it got lost in the mail with Mike's copy...
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 05/03/2016:
Can't bolt a top onto a rusted out windshield frame so started peeling the onion...
Windshield came out easy enough once I cut the rubber seal out.
Yup, there it is...
Next layer.
And another
Looks like there's one more layer of swiss cheese in there to remove and then I'll have to plan on a good way to handle all the rust on the inside I won't be able to remove.
Anyone suggest better option than this: My plan is to spray either phosphoric or muriatic acid up in the hollow sections followed by thorough rinse and probably the Eastwood rust converter with the long hose to reach all the crevices. Might want to use a chassis sealer on top of that.
Can't bolt a top onto a rusted out windshield frame so started peeling the onion...
Windshield came out easy enough once I cut the rubber seal out.
Yup, there it is...
Next layer.
And another
Looks like there's one more layer of swiss cheese in there to remove and then I'll have to plan on a good way to handle all the rust on the inside I won't be able to remove.
Anyone suggest better option than this: My plan is to spray either phosphoric or muriatic acid up in the hollow sections followed by thorough rinse and probably the Eastwood rust converter with the long hose to reach all the crevices. Might want to use a chassis sealer on top of that.
Update 05/03/2016:
Can't bolt a top onto a rusted out windshield frame so started peeling the onion...
Windshield came out easy enough once I cut the rubber seal out.
Yup, there it is...
Next layer.
And another
Looks like there's one more layer of swiss cheese in there to remove and then I'll have to plan on a good way to handle all the rust on the inside I won't be able to remove.
Anyone suggest better option than this: My plan is to spray either phosphoric or muriatic acid up in the hollow sections followed by thorough rinse and probably the Eastwood rust converter with the long hose to reach all the crevices. Might want to use a chassis sealer on top of that.
No idea what the best method will be.... But the windshield frame is one the the last vestiges of hidden rust on my truck and I'd like to figure out a good way to get inside the entire frame to remove / seal out the rust for good.
Maybe there's a way to coax a long-handled brush into the uprights and across the bottom now that you've cut an access hole? Something that could hold an acid-based converter (OSPHO type deal)???
-G
That general method worked for me. After patching the rotted portions, I used the Eastwood rust converter and encapsulator (with the long tube) on the inside of my Charger's front frame. I used 2 whole cans over several sessions hoping I coated everything evenly. The nozzle doesn't spray cleanly and the paint is thin and tends to run.
3M makes a semi-rigid wand that extends off an undercoat paint gun:
3M 08998 Rust Fighter-I Application Wand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038D7GB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kAFkxbCGTTEWS
Same principle as the Eastwood hose, but can handle a thicker, goopier paint. That's been my plan for the final internal coating.
David
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
No idea what the best method will be.... But the windshield frame is one the the last vestiges of hidden rust on my truck and I'd like to figure out a good way to get inside the entire frame to remove / seal out the rust for good.
Maybe there's a way to coax a long-handled brush into the uprights and across the bottom now that you've cut an access hole? Something that could hold an acid-based converter (OSPHO type deal)???
-G
I did find Eastwood has some long bristle type "bottle brush" type tools you can attach to a drill . I may try to sneak one of those up and down the A pillar.
I've also been reading that vinegar is a safer rust remover, but takes a bit longer. I also have some "fast etch" phosphoric acid based stuff I'm trying on the rusty chunks I removed. I want to remove as must rust as possible before converting and sealing what's left.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yea, I saw some demos of it and while it's better than nothing, it wasn't a sure fire way to coat the inside of something very evenly. Maybe the 3M wand can do a bit better.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 05/05/2016
Started some experiments (mostly for fun) on a few different rust removers
From left to right:
Prep-etch (phosphoric acid based)
Krud cutter (phosphoric acid based)
Vinegar
Metal rescue (unknown contents with water)
In front of each one is a container and a rusty piece of scrap metal. I tried using steel that was untreated with plating or paint so it's similar the k5 sheet metal material as much as possible.
A screw from an antique piano
And a nail. This probably had plating on it at one point, but it was the only option I could find.
Here's the prep-etch on the scrap after a few seconds, lots of bubbles and foam.
Here's the krud cutter, no visible action.
Vinegar
Metal rescue:
Some interesting results after only 30 minutes...
Started some experiments (mostly for fun) on a few different rust removers
From left to right:
Prep-etch (phosphoric acid based)
Krud cutter (phosphoric acid based)
Vinegar
Metal rescue (unknown contents with water)
In front of each one is a container and a rusty piece of scrap metal. I tried using steel that was untreated with plating or paint so it's similar the k5 sheet metal material as much as possible.
A screw from an antique piano
And a nail. This probably had plating on it at one point, but it was the only option I could find.
Here's the prep-etch on the scrap after a few seconds, lots of bubbles and foam.
Here's the krud cutter, no visible action.
Vinegar
Metal rescue:
Some interesting results after only 30 minutes...
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Let's start with prep-etch. The bubbling stopped after a bit and I removed it from the bath and just let it sit and dry per the instructions. The part was coated with a hard black shell, which looks like it just converted the rust that was on it into iron phosphate. It's not a bad thing, but I'd like to remove the rust, not just treat it.
Here's the krud cutter, way more interesting results. This was a piece of DOM that was sitting outside in the dirt. It was pretty rusty. This thing looks brand new now. Woah!
I could also see a pile of rusty chunks in the fluid where the piece was sitting
Vinegar had no noticeable difference. I added an extra rusty nut for fun.
And the metal rescue, a few specks of shiny metal showing up.
I then put the prep-etch sample into the krud cutter to see what would happen and left everything to sit overnight.
Here's the krud cutter, way more interesting results. This was a piece of DOM that was sitting outside in the dirt. It was pretty rusty. This thing looks brand new now. Woah!
I could also see a pile of rusty chunks in the fluid where the piece was sitting
Vinegar had no noticeable difference. I added an extra rusty nut for fun.
And the metal rescue, a few specks of shiny metal showing up.
I then put the prep-etch sample into the krud cutter to see what would happen and left everything to sit overnight.
Science!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Here's what the krud cutter did to the sample by morning, you can see the rust particles that fell off in the liquid.
All the black oxide substance was off and it is mostly clean metal now. I like this krud cutter stuff.
There's the vinegar. There's a few rusty flakes floating around in there as well as a few shiny spots on the rusty parts. Looks like it works very slow.
There's the metal rescue. Parts look mostly clean, but don't see any particles in the fluid. The manufacturer says they are held in the fluid, which will eventually turn black when it's unable to remove any more rust. This stuff works slower, but they say it's non toxic and won't even harm your skin. The drawback is that the parts need to be submerged, or kept very wet. That might be hard inside the windshield frame, but there might be some kind of fluid pump trick I could rig up.
All the black oxide substance was off and it is mostly clean metal now. I like this krud cutter stuff.
There's the vinegar. There's a few rusty flakes floating around in there as well as a few shiny spots on the rusty parts. Looks like it works very slow.
There's the metal rescue. Parts look mostly clean, but don't see any particles in the fluid. The manufacturer says they are held in the fluid, which will eventually turn black when it's unable to remove any more rust. This stuff works slower, but they say it's non toxic and won't even harm your skin. The drawback is that the parts need to be submerged, or kept very wet. That might be hard inside the windshield frame, but there might be some kind of fluid pump trick I could rig up.
Cool! I'm impressed by the krud cutter. I may have to pick some up.
Thanks for sharing your experiments.
Thanks for sharing your experiments.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yea, I may pick up a gallon and just spray it down into all the cavities and then rinse it out with solvent to make sure it doesn't flash rust. Then seal it up. All the experiments were also done without any scrubbing, sanding, or wiping. The samples just sat in the liquid.
Cool experiment.
Martin
Martin
