CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

Only thing that made me consider the roller cam is the break-in process. I keep reading about all these guys wiping out cam lobes cause that made some unknown mistake. I hadn't checked on cost, but $500+ for the cam alone is money better spent elsewhere in my case. Really appreciate all he advice. I'll plan out the break-in process extra carefully.

Brian,

I'm sure you already know this but a few manufacturers sell "High Zinc" break-in oil specifically for new cams. It's more expensive than regular oil, but still cheaper than a new cam. :)

-G
 
Find or build a break in stand. I just broke in my cam in my super budget 454 on a stand. This is the first time for me but the fact I can fix oil leaks and other issues is way worth the effort.
 
Brian,

I'm sure you already know this but a few manufacturers sell "High Zinc" break-in oil specifically for new cams. It's more expensive than regular oil, but still cheaper than a new cam. :)

-G
Yep, was running the valvoline vr-1 racing oil the whole time and as far as I know the cam is still good in my smaller motor. Although I'm hearing other oils might have more zinc. For break-in, oil cost doesn't matter since it's a one time thing.
 
Only thing that made me consider the roller cam is the break-in process. I keep reading about all these guys wiping out cam lobes cause that made some unknown mistake. I hadn't checked on cost, but $500+ for the cam alone is money better spent elsewhere in my case. Really appreciate all he advice. I'll plan out the break-in process extra carefully.

That's $500+ for a cam & lifter kit....still a lot of money.
 
OK I'm convinced the flat tappet cam is a good enough for me. It's getting more and more tempting just to put it back together and run it
 
Even with the solid roller cam, I ran Lucas Oil break in oil, plus another bottle of ZDDP to boot. Overkill? Yeah, but for the money I have in my engine, I'll take the extra prevention.

The costs can get staggering when building an engine. Trust me, I know. Have you figured out a target budget yet? That'll help provide direction on parts.
 
Even with the solid roller cam, I ran Lucas Oil break in oil, plus another bottle of ZDDP to boot. Overkill? Yeah, but for the money I have in my engine, I'll take the extra prevention.

The costs can get staggering when building an engine. Trust me, I know. Have you figured out a target budget yet? That'll help provide direction on parts.

I'd like to have it back in the truck for under two grand. And would like to do as much of the work as possible myself to try and enjoy the experience
 
I dunno if you followed the progress on Max02's Ratbag 77 pick-up. we installed a 1990 vintage 454 in place of the small block it had. this was a TBI 454, peanut port heads, small cam, 4 bolt mains and as clean as yours. Dean added an Edelbrock intake and a good quadrajet and left it alone other than that. It pulls very hard as it is...

I gave Dean a decent set of 781 heads with it, and I'm sure they'll end up on there one day...but for the meantime K.I.S.S.!!!
 
I thought about roller cam exactly like you're thinking, easier break-in. Seems like the total cost for all the parts needed was over $1000. So I skipped that. Actually ended up just keeping the cam that was in it. My motor was low miles tho.

I got an Amsoil preferred customer membership and I'm running their Z-rod high zinc oil. Since I'm gonna run that in the 454 and the 327 in my 66, it's worth the $20 membership.
 
If you did want to up your compression and not need to bore the block here's a good setup.
It would come out to 9.3:1......4.250 bore, 4.0 stroke, 119cc heads, -22 domed pistons, .025 deck height, .039 gasket. You could lower it be going thicker head gasket as well.....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h693cp/overview/make/chevrolet

Be thoughtful here Brian. This is a great idea, but, even this can turn into, "might as well" really fast. With a piston change on an engine with those miles, I'd think you're at least looking at rings, wrist pins, keepers, rod bearings, main bearings. Plus, it's all the little stuff that eats up the budget
 
Be thoughtful here Brian. This is a great idea, but, even this can turn into, "might as well" really fast. With a piston change on an engine with those miles, I'd think you're at least looking at rings, wrist pins, keepers, rod bearings, main bearings. Plus, it's all the little stuff that eats up the budget

I would hope new rings.... It all comes down to do you want to rebuild it or run it and hope it doesn't through a bearing....
 
I don't mean to be a d*** but IMO, with a budget of $2k (to include efi) this needs to be a rering job with bearings and walk away. This type of swap will nickel and dime you plus when you add the efi conversion I don't think you'll have any room for fancy heads or upgrade machine work on your heads, cam , etc.
 
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