71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

[AgDieseler]

That would seem to be a point against grounding the radiator.

After trashing my first Ron Davis radiator, I formed some strong opinions about good grounds and isolating the radiator.

I had accidentally grounded the radiator via the lower radiator hose anti-collapse spring. It touched both the water pump and the radiator outlet, completing the circuit and allowed voltage in the coolant to return to the engine and then the battery, taking bits of aluminum along with it. It only took two years to convert that radiator into a great piece of wall art.

In addition to trimming that spring, I added a big braided ground from the engine to the frame, and ties to a piece of hardware that contacts the water jacket.

I forgot the exact tolerance, but something like .15V is the upper limit when measuring from your coolant to an engine ground. I think I ended up at a resting 0.09V, and spiked to 0.11V during cranking.

All this to say, I recommend isolating the radiator entirely, and creating a series of good and interconnected grounds so the coolant is the most resistive path back to the battery.

David

 

[mrk5]

Interesting, I never knew this was even a "thing". Is that part of the reason they've gone to the plastic radiator headers?

 

[bp71k5]

After trashing my first Ron Davis radiator, I formed some strong opinions about good grounds and isolating the radiator.

I had accidentally grounded the radiator via the lower radiator hose anti-collapse spring. It touched both the water pump and the radiator outlet, completing the circuit and allowed voltage in the coolant to return to the engine and then the battery, taking bits of aluminum along with it. It only took two years to convert that radiator into a great piece of wall art.

In addition to trimming that spring, I added a big braided ground from the engine to the frame, and ties to a piece of hardware that contacts the water jacket.

I forgot the exact tolerance, but something like .15V is the upper limit when measuring from your coolant to an engine ground. I think I ended up at a resting 0.09V, and spiked to 0.11V during cranking.

All this to say, I recommend isolating the radiator entirely, and creating a series of good and interconnected grounds so the coolant is the most resistive path back to the battery.

David

It’s a bit strange, but I understand there is voltage generated when two dissimilar metals are present in a liquid. In my case, with the battery totally disconnected and engine off (obviously), I get ~0.2V between the radiator body and any ground spot. This seems to tell me the voltage is not coming from an electrical source, but from the coolant. Sound like a reasonable conclusion?

I should measure it while running with all the accessories on to see if it ever increases. Lots of sites say it’s ok if it’s under 0.3V, but a few say less than 0.15V is best with aluminum. I’d obviously like to be as concervative as possible and shoot for 0.0V even though I’ll never get there.

 

[bp71k5]

Interesting, I never knew this was even a "thing". Is that part of the reason they've gone to the plastic radiator headers?

Probably a cost thing more than anything. I think aluminum is cheaper than brass and plastic is cheaper than aluminum.

 

[bp71k5]

Another related bit of info is that some radiators are grounded to avoid static electricity buildup caused by fluid moving through the fins. But others believe grounding it solves the static issue, but may make the electrolysis problem happen faster.

 

[kgblazerfive]

I think it was a better ground issue. So it was taking the path of least resistance.

 

[bp71k5]

Update 12/30/2018: Preemptive Happy New Year to everyone!

I’ve been able to drive the K5 a little bit, but the weather and work have made it difficult. Radiator is not leaking, and everything has been working well.

After I dug out some damp paperwork in the console a few weeks back, I decided to spruce up my console a bit in hopes that I could find some kind of waterproof box to keep in there since even new it wasn’t very water resistant.

First up was installing nice machine screw inserts in the body. My wife was nice enough to find one of these for me.


So I installed 4 1/4-20 “nut”-serts in the floor that lined up with the holes in the console. I had self tapping screws previously and any time I had to put my hand under there adjusting the transfer case linkage, those buggers sticking through did some damage. I like these things.



Then went on to diassembling the console and repairing the loose cup holders and broken fiberglass portions. Also de-rusted the metal hardware latch, hinge, and chrome trim ring. I polished up the trim ring as best I could and have it coat of clear to keep it from worsening.

Also used a little filler to fix some dings and issues on the lid and sanded off the texture on the outer area and left the texture on the middle area.


Reinstalled the locker switches on the front and added a usb charger socket to the front side and another 12v plug to the back for rear seat passengers (ie my kids) to be able to power a DVD player on long road trips.






Even refurbished the Chevy badge that’s on the top. The top side also got a coat of clear but not sure I totally like it. Depending on how it holds up, I may remove it or respray it matte.


Last bit here is that I put in a relocation request to work out of the company office in Knoxville Tennessee a few weeks ago and it looks like it’s 90% approved so I may be preparing for an epic K5 cross country road trip in March/April if it does get approved. Can’t wait to find some other areas to explore in this thing.

 

[SpeedlabDan]

Update 12/30/2018: Preemptive Happy New Year to everyone!

I’ve been able to drive the K5 a little bit, but the weather and work have made it difficult. Radiator is not leaking, and everything has been working well.

After I dug out some damp paperwork in the console a few weeks back, I decided to spruce up my console a bit in hopes that I could find some kind of waterproof box to keep in there since even new it wasn’t very water resistant.

First up was installing nice machine screw inserts in the body. My wife was nice enough to find one of these for me.
View attachment 289977

So I installed 4 1/4-20 “nut”-serts in the floor that lined up with the holes in the console. I had self tapping screws previously and any time I had to put my hand under there adjusting the transfer case linkage, those buggers sticking through did some damage. I like these things.
View attachment 289975
View attachment 289976

Then went on to diassembling the console and repairing the loose cup holders and broken fiberglass portions. Also de-rusted the metal hardware latch, hinge, and chrome trim ring. I polished up the trim ring as best I could and have it coat of clear to keep it from worsening.

Also used a little filler to fix some dings and issues on the lid and sanded off the texture on the outer area and left the texture on the middle area.
View attachment 289978

Reinstalled the locker switches on the front and added a usb charger socket to the front side and another 12v plug to the back for rear seat passengers (ie my kids) to be able to power a DVD player on long road trips.
View attachment 289979

View attachment 289980

View attachment 289982

Even refurbished the Chevy badge that’s on the top. The top side also got a coat of clear but not sure I totally like it. Depending on how it holds up, I may remove it or respray it matte.
View attachment 289981

Last bit here is that I put in a relocation request to work out of the company office in Knoxville Tennessee a few weeks ago and it looks like it’s 90% approved so I may be preparing for an epic K5 cross country road trip in March/April if it does get approved. Can’t wait to find some other areas to explore in this thing.

Love my nut-cert tool I use it all the time! Looks good man!

 

[Smokinthehippies]

I need to get a bigger one. My little China freight one tops out at 1/4-20 and I’d like to be able to do like a 3/8 or even up to 1/2

 

[Truckman4life]

Congrats! Hope the relocation works out for you. I drove through TN once a few years ago and it was really pretty.

 

[bp71k5]

Update 2/3/2019

Doing a favor for my wife bending some tube and this happened.



Anyone know where this tube bender kit came from? I have an old email from 2012 and might be rockbuggysupply. If they aren’t around anymore, I may try to see if someone can make me some more plates.

 

[Bent77]

Update 2/3/2019

Doing a favor for my wife bending some tube and this happened.

View attachment 293612

Anyone know where this tube bender kit came from? I have an old email from 2012 and might be rockbuggysupply. If they aren’t around anymore, I may try to see if someone can make me some more plates.

Have @Deuling cut you some

 

[bp71k5]

Have @Deuling cut you some

Turns out it’s just “probender3” and sent them an email to see if I could buy replacement parts. I forgot to remove a pin while bending, that’s what broke it. I guess those rams are pretty strong.

 

[bp71k5]

Turns out it’s just “probender3” and sent them an email to see if I could buy replacement parts. I forgot to remove a pin while bending, that’s what broke it. I guess those rams are pretty strong.

Hmm, not answering phone or email, and no updates on forums for 3 years. Guessing they may have gone belly up. If @Deuling (or anyone else) can handle 1/2” plate, I have a DXF file I can send.

 

[Bent77]

Hmm, not answering phone or email, and no updates on forums for 3 years. Guessing they may have gone belly up. If @Deuling (or anyone else) can handle 1/2” plate, I have a DXF file I can send.

Call Adam, easiest way besides FB

 

[bp71k5]

I’m actually tempted to try and repair these. Am I crazy for thinking I can weld in a new chunk and redrill the holes?

 

[kgblazerfive]

yup you are crazy..... making a whole new one would not be though

 

[bp71k5]

yup you are crazy..... making a whole new one would not be though

Because it’s not worth the time compared to cutting a new one or because the welding won’t hold up?

I got a quote request into some local laser cutting services. We’ll see what a new one costs vs repairing/remaking it myself. If it’s under $150, I’ll just buy new ones.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Both, do not think a welded one would hold up. Or be really worth the work. Adam could cut one rather cheaply and sell it to you for rather cheap also.

 

[82355]

Just curious, but what prompted you to request a move to Tennessee?

Martin