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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

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82355 said:
Just curious, but what prompted you to request a move to Tennessee?

Martin
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The company I work for has an office there, that’s the specific reason for the location along with a bunch of outdoor activities and location close to a bunch of other places we’d like to visit with our kids as they grow up.

As for the reason to relocate at all? It’s insanely expensive to live in this part of CA and getting more so. We’d be forced to leave once I retire anyway so figure there’s no point in waiting. Million dollar base home prices means not a lot of people can buy homes which pushes rental prices up too. Bunch of other non-financial reasons mostly related to personal liberty. One of my friends family just came to the same conclusion except they’re heading to Atlanta so we’d be only a few hours away.

The move just got approved as well so shooting for June 1.
 
I see. Just curious. I’ve spent very little time in Tennessee, but it seemed nice enough.

Martin
 
Found a place a few miles from the office that does laser cutting in 1/2” material. A couple of the holes were ~.05” too small so opened it up with a drill bit and painted them up, and am back in business. I’ll just consider the old arms tuition. Let that be a lessson, don’t store extra pins in the die while using it!

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Nice fix. It's always a good day when you find a reliable laser shop.

David
 
Update 04/04/2019

Been spending a ton of time tuning the engine a bit more. Found some larger injectors that let me run lower fuel pressure. I was a little worried about 70psi inside rubber hose with hose clamps. I’ve got it pretty well dialed in with only 44 psi now. Only issue is that it stumbles a bit when it’s cold.

Did 100 miles of freeway trips to work and back and...radiator is leaking again. I’ll have to pull the anode thing out and see if it’s corroded. It’ll sit for a week though.
 
Minor update. I measured the voltage from the coolant to the negative battery terminal and got 0.02V most of the time and got it to go up to 0.15V. Supposedly that is not a big deal. In addition, I drained the radiator and checked the zinc/magnesium anode that was included and it’s not corroded at all. So it’s not looking like electrolysis. Which points to some kind of mechanical problem damaging the radiator or a minor hose leak that I just can’t see.

Looks like it stopped leaking after refilling with water, but I don’t trust it. Haven’t found anyone willing to haul it to Tennessee for me so I need this thing to be drivable for 3000 miles by June. Worst case I get a lifetime warranty model from Oreillys and just warranty it a few times along the way as needed. :rotfl:

After that the front clip will get remodeled and a new style radiator will replace it.
 
bp71k5 said:
Worst case I get a lifetime warranty model from Oreillys and just warranty it a few times along the way as needed.
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Roadkill.

David

PS: all my measurements were .15VDC and under. I agree that you’re good.
 
I may have to backtrack my diagnosis. Ran some flush fluid through the radiator and filled it back up with distilled water and although the coolant itself only has .15V, the radiator body has .3-.5V.

I unplugged both battery cables and still measured .5V. Then I drained the coolant/water and then the voltage went down. Seems like the coolant is “storing” a voltage in it.

I was also able to measure about .5V on one of the cooling fan bodies, but not sure how that would travel to the radiator since it’s isolated by rubber mounts. Once I drained the coolant, the fan voltage went away too. I’m going to keep poking around to see what I can find.

I also wonder, I assume auto trans radiators are grounded through the cooler lines. I’m tempted to ground the radiator, or replace it with an auto trans version and just use the cooler lines as a ground instead of for cooling trans fluid.
 
Do your coolant lines or trans lines or any lines into the radiator touch the frame at all ?

I ask, I had a 98 Burb that went through five radiators with the same issues. Finally found that the oil cooler, in the radiator, lines were touching the frame. Moved those out of the way and never had another radiator leaking issue.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Do your coolant lines or trans lines or any lines into the radiator touch the frame at all ?

I ask, I had a 98 Burb that went through five radiators with the same issues. Finally found that the oil cooler, in the radiator, lines were touching the frame. Moved those out of the way and never had another radiator leaking issue.
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The lower rubber hose is probably touching the frame, but nothing metal. This would be a fun experiment if it wasn’t my money.
 
Is this ok to vent here? I spent days flushing this thing, grounding everything I could think of, adding a special coolant treatment, filling up with fresh coolant, get it all warmed up, then discover there is a decent size leak right at the bottom. :angry1: Draining all the fresh coolant now to remove the dumb radiator.
 
Your mounts aren't wrong are they? If i remember right, big and small block mounts are different. If the mounts are squeezing too tight, it'll crack the case. Just a thought.
 
Z71paramedic said:
Your mounts aren't wrong are they? If i remember right, big and small block mounts are different. If the mounts are squeezing too tight, it'll crack the case. Just a thought.
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No, I switched them for the big radiator size. Looks like it’s leaking from the same place all the other did.
 
Welp, I got nothing then. Definitely seems very odd with all the steps you've taken trying to fix the issue. Sorry I can't offer anything worthwhile.
 
I know it might be sacrilege, but would using one of the newer type radiators with the plastic tanks possibly help?
 
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