CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

Got a few more days work of straightening the quarter panel done. Looks like the metal is within 1/16” correct. I’d like to get to 1/32” to make it easy to fill with primer and not have to use any body filler.
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The edge right at the door gap is a little low and I’m going to cut the weld, move it out flush with the door and then weld it back up. Can sorta see it in this picture. Might as well shoot for perfection right?
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Aiming to post a video of the process I stumbled through to get it this far in a couple weeks.
 
This arrived today. Sold a rifle to fund it.

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Basic specs are AC/DC, 110/220V, under $1k, comes with everything except the gas.

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Ground the tungsten sharp on the belt sander and started trying it out. I’ve determined a few things:
1. It’s going to take a lot of practice.
2. I need different gloves
3. MIG wire is too flimsy to be a good filler wire
4. This is fun!
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Here’s why. The front of the wheel arch that I opened up a while ago to fit 37’s isn’t very smooth and is missing the bead detail on it. I’m going to change both problems. The paper template is my new arch.
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This patch panel I welded in didn’t have the bead on the edge of the wheel arch so I’m going to recreate the beaded area to replace my hacked version. Started building a wooden form for it and ordered a few more tools as well. Being able to weld in a new patch with much more precision and less heat damage will be a welcome change. Been spending a lot of time in “youtube school”.
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Decided to get some practice time in with 16g butt joints and just laying down a bead on 1/8” plate.

First joint. Pretty wobbly. Also looks kinda overly hot? That seems to be a common theme in all of them.
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Tried to get in better position to keep it straight.
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1/8” plate started on the left and moved right. One question I had was that the end of all of these beads has a small bubble right at the tip that forms once the arc goes out. You can kinda see on the bottom of all these attempts. Kinda looks like contamination piling up the size of a pin head.
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One question I had was that the end of all of these beads has a small bubble right at the tip that forms once the arc goes out.
Current demand will decrease as you weld, especially for coupons that tend to quickly heat soak. Throttling down on the last dab or two, and very slowly (like 2 seconds) decreasing the current to where the puddle freezes has helped me. This is especially true when welding aluminum.

Welcome to thunder dome. Keep at it.

David
 
Do not do the last filler material dip at the end.
I never did myself but I watched the welder working on my trailer floor.
He always stopped feeding it the last half inch and just kept pushing the puddle to blend it all at the end.
 
A semi-hero day yesterday as I got a lot done the past week or two.

Started by creating a wooden hammer form that would let me create a new patch panel for the rear wheel arch. The aftermarket patch panels for that area don’t have the small bead that runs around the wheel arch section so I had to build one myself. I laid my paper template over the wood and then used a fat marker to run along the edge which gave me a nice black line to use as a reference.

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Once I cut on that curved line, I formed a steel sandwich that followed that curve and trimmed them to match the wooden form. I cut a section of the fender arch out to check my dimensions and it looked good.
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I originally tried screwing the sheet down over the wooden form, but the screws pulled out too easily when the hammer put any kind of force on the panel. So I glued up a custom plywood clamping block that matched the curvature of the form. This worked very well. You can see the edge of the 18g sheet sticking out of the form ready to be hammered into compliance.
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I wish I could say I got it right on the first try but this was my forth and final attempt at forming it. I had to create some metal shrinking pliers to get the lower section to fold the way it needed to and also used a torch to soften the folds enough to hammer them flat after I removed it from the fixture.

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Here’s my tuition pile starting from left to right.
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Trimmed and welded the patch back onto the fender arch. I got 4-5 blowouts with the TIG but once I discovered that I need to initiate the arc on solid metal and then drag it across the joint to the other side, I could just about fusion weld the panel without filler.
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And there it is with the welds ground down and hammer planished. It looks and fits really well. Feels really good seeing that fixed and even opens up the tires clearance a bit more.
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If there’s any interest in the video of the process, I’ve got the first one up and 4-5 total to go that I’ll be able to upload over the next few days.
also started a rumble channel for those that hate youtube.
 
I'll look at every picture you post.

Martin
Ha, I think you’re caught up on pictures. Couple more videos coming on how the final patch was built and then welded in. Pictures don’t require video editing and so they get posted much earlier. Learning how to TIG the patch was without blowing through it was probably the hardest part for me. I even have a video of me failing at that.
 
Got a start on the rear of the quarter panel tonight. Took a lot of hammer and dolly work. Some torch shrinking and a shrinking disc but it straight within 1/32”. The lower part below the body line needs some work to fix some old welding gone bad and some damage from Moab back in the day.


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You are at the same point I am

Its just my patch panels don't form up to meet the inner bedside

Great work on documenting, I could use all the help I can find
 
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