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72 Jimmy

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toomany said:
More bracing is always better, as is getting some good measurements before you starting ripping things off.

Going from the hinges to the B-pillars is the best way to brace that opening. Putting the brace in up at the upper hinge and running it straight across gives you some head room to work. If you are planning on taking out the entire front floor like I did, expect the firewall to fall forward and move around a bunch...no matter how you brace it. Taking out the cab floor, you will probably be loosing the front body mounts.

Knowing that I was replacing everything, I basically cut the truck in two and started from the firewall and worked my way back. Got the front floor, step up panel, rear floor and new bedsides in before I worried about the door openings. Biggest problem I had with this was getting the lined back up with the front floor at the correct height. If I were to do it again, I'd brace the door openings, support the firewall (I used a chainfall from the ceiling) and the do only the front part.

If doing an entire cab floor as one piece you will have to bend/pry/twist/beat it in and out of position. The lower A-pillars, depending on how you have it supported, will want to move in or out. Mine came in a little so that made getting the new floor out to prep the edges for welding more difficult. I also replaced both lower A-pillars when the floor was missing. Also, if using the complete floor w/braces, you will need to trim about 7'' off the back side. That panel is made for a pickup. There is a K5 one being produced, but I don't know anyone who has it in stock or has used it yet. I had to go with the low hump version as well because the high hump was out of stock everywhere I looked.

Surprisingly, my bedsides didn't move hardly any at all. Even now, the new ones are only held in with a couple bolts along the floor and at the B-pillar. Must just be the design of them but they are real solid for how they mount. While not a bad idea to brace, I think more of a triangulated approach would be best (bedside to middle of floor rather than across to each other).

Having the tailgate and top on will help a ton, more so for the top. Top will keep the windshield where it needs to be, the bedsides apart and help with door openings. Take some measurements now and write them down (or post them here) so you have something to go back to. Don't be shocked if you have to move things either. My firewall had to come back a good 1" for my door opening to be correct.

Working from the outside in will also help. The outer rockers are basically just covers and can get tacked on where needed, and are probably easiest to "eyeball align" rather than measure because they join so many panels together (door, fender, B-pillar) I'm going to tackle those after the rocker boxes are in, front clip hung and doors aligned.

Your tub looks to be in much better shape than mine. With only your firewall looking worse, unless there is a bunch of hidden rust and bondo hiding under the paint.
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Thanks for the feedback, appreciate all of the help!
 
How is the progress going? Also, what engine are you going to put into it when you are done?

By the way, I can't get over how nice it looked in pictures before you really dug in. Amazing to see what really lies beneath.
 
ekajkrats said:
How is the progress going? Also, what engine are you going to put into it when you are done?

By the way, I can't get over how nice it looked in pictures before you really dug in. Amazing to see what really lies beneath.
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350 crate motor, nothing too serious. I’m making some headway, ready to pull the motor and was wondering whether or not to pull the trans and motor together. Any thoughts?
 
I've never pulled a motor before but since you have the hood and front off, I've seen many do it and sounds like together is the way way to go since you have easy access.

I did change a cracked flexplate on my blazer, and the top bolts of the transmission were tough to get to, but was still possible while they were in the blazer. If I had the choice and was swapping/working on the engine anyway , I'd have done them together.
 
ekajkrats said:
I've never pulled a motor before but since you have the hood and front off, I've seen many do it and sounds like together is the way way to go since you have easy access.

I did change a cracked flexplate on my blazer, and the top bolts of the transmission were tough to get to, but was still possible while they were in the blazer. If I had the choice and was swapping/working on the engine anyway , I'd have done them together.
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Thanks, I’m going to go that route. I have a 2 ton hoist so it shouldn’t be a problem.
 
By the way, if you pull the plate covering the trans/transfer case from the inside of the cab, those upper trans bolts are a peice of cake to access.
 
Jimmywood said:
By the way, if you pull the plate covering the trans/transfer case from the inside of the cab, those upper trans bolts are a peice of cake to access.
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I avoided doing that because of the layers of material I have down there. So it didn't even cross my mind. Glad you got it out!
 
toomany said:
More bracing is always better, as is getting some good measurements before you starting ripping things off.

Going from the hinges to the B-pillars is the best way to brace that opening. Putting the brace in up at the upper hinge and running it straight across gives you some head room to work. If you are planning on taking out the entire front floor like I did, expect the firewall to fall forward and move around a bunch...no matter how you brace it. Taking out the cab floor, you will probably be loosing the front body mounts.

Knowing that I was replacing everything, I basically cut the truck in two and started from the firewall and worked my way back. Got the front floor, step up panel, rear floor and new bedsides in before I worried about the door openings. Biggest problem I had with this was getting the lined back up with the front floor at the correct height. If I were to do it again, I'd brace the door openings, support the firewall (I used a chainfall from the ceiling) and the do only the front part.

If doing an entire cab floor as one piece you will have to bend/pry/twist/beat it in and out of position. The lower A-pillars, depending on how you have it supported, will want to move in or out. Mine came in a little so that made getting the new floor out to prep the edges for welding more difficult. I also replaced both lower A-pillars when the floor was missing. Also, if using the complete floor w/braces, you will need to trim about 7'' off the back side. That panel is made for a pickup. There is a K5 one being produced, but I don't know anyone who has it in stock or has used it yet. I had to go with the low hump version as well because the high hump was out of stock everywhere I looked.

Surprisingly, my bedsides didn't move hardly any at all. Even now, the new ones are only held in with a couple bolts along the floor and at the B-pillar. Must just be the design of them but they are real solid for how they mount. While not a bad idea to brace, I think more of a triangulated approach would be best (bedside to middle of floor rather than across to each other).

Having the tailgate and top on will help a ton, more so for the top. Top will keep the windshield where it needs to be, the bedsides apart and help with door openings. Take some measurements now and write them down (or post them here) so you have something to go back to. Don't be shocked if you have to move things either. My firewall had to come back a good 1" for my door opening to be correct.

Working from the outside in will also help. The outer rockers are basically just covers and can get tacked on where needed, and are probably easiest to "eyeball align" rather than measure because they join so many panels together (door, fender, B-pillar) I'm going to tackle those after the rocker boxes are in, front clip hung and doors aligned.

Your tub looks to be in much better shape than mine. With only your firewall looking worse, unless there is a bunch of hidden rust and bondo hiding under the paint.
Click to expand...

I’ve been busy with other stuff over the last month and now back to work on the Jimmy! I’ve decided to replace basically everything from the firewall back, there is so much rust and fiberglass/bondo that I think it will be much easier and a better finished product. Since I’m going this far already, I’m going to take it down to the frame, sandblast, re-paint and begin to re-assemble. That being said, where would you start as far as the body panels go? I did buy the assembly manual but it seems to jump around so much and the sequence doesn’t make sense to me. Thanks in advance.

CCC14F39-6662-40A0-BCAF-97B1D48EA31C.jpeg

AD6F437B-E0F5-4488-814A-CA6F2E3837ED.jpeg

ECE26DD7-B700-4392-BB0F-6C0B560661EC.jpeg

019042FA-9CAC-4154-80DE-4C39A7E8C548.jpeg
 
Jimmywood said:
I’ve been busy with other stuff over the last month and now back to work on the Jimmy! I’ve decided to replace basically everything from the firewall back, there is so much rust and fiberglass/bondo that I think it will be much easier and a better finished product. Since I’m going this far already, I’m going to take it down to the frame, sandblast, re-paint and begin to re-assemble. That being said, where would you start as far as the body panels go? I did buy the assembly manual but it seems to jump around so much and the sequence doesn’t make sense to me. Thanks in advance.

View attachment 278801

View attachment 278802

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View attachment 278804
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I saw a website that has what appears to have full bedsides among other things. You might want to check them out.
http://www.motorcityk5.com/
 
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Love that your really peeling the onion back, layer by layer. :bow:

You’re correct on the manual. It appears that somebody dropped the stack of papers on the way to the copy machine way back when, said screw it, jumbled them together and produced what we have now, as our bible. It’s a mess.

As stated earlier, just use the LMC book to get a name of the panel/ part you need. In the beginning I bought a bunch of their stuff, then ultimately ended up buying it again from either GMCPAULS or with Wes at Classic Heartbeat. Both of those guys carry the best product for our rigs.

Glad to see another 1st gen being brought to life. Keep at it. :waytogo:
 
Your firewall/windshield frame/toe board looks worse than mine. The rest looks better than what I started with.

First, I'd see what is able to be saved, if anything. Next, take some good measurements and pictures of everything.

Without seeing the bottom of the floors it's hard to judge how bad they are. Assuming you are going to replace the front floor, I'd start there. If your A-pillars are in good shape, brace between the door openings to keep the firewall in place and the gap somewhat correct. Get the floor fitted and check all the measurements again. I had to pull one side of my firewall back a good 3" to get everything square (I didn't brace, just cut the tub in half and started).

From there I'd move towards the back of the truck. Step-up panel, rear floor, bedsides. Those parts are fairly straight forward. Body mount bolts dictate where the floor sit (same goes for front floor too). Bedsides just bolt on. Step-up gets bolted along the top and welded to the front floor.

It's not until you get into the rocker boxes that you start connecting three main areas (firewall, cab floor, rear) together. My boxes fit pretty well, it was the end caps that I had to modify to get where I wanted them.

I'm just now getting into my firewall/cowl/windshield area. I'm anticipating that this will be the hardest to deal with. Just because there are so many layers and curves in a small space. Have to rebuild my fresh air vent and lower windshield on both sides.


You could also start at the back and work you way forward. Get the rear floor and bedsides on, then worry about the front floor and firewall. This is the approach I took. My reasoning was that the B-pillar was a fixed spot (when you align the doors, you start there). So establishing that point and building off that made sense to me. Getting the firewall/A-pillar in place to where the doors closed good was a challenge though. I had it hanging from the ceiling and supported underneith and it still moved around a ton. That's the main reason for my suggesting starting with the front floor.
 
I don't know how I missed this one. I will be cool to see you save it!
How is it going?
 
It’s official. I’m adding you to the #onionclub

It’s terrifying at first, but we can help.

-G
 
Thanks Greg, attached is where I’m at today. Definitely an onion club member. I’m surprised to find that I can’t find front door pillars or the inner cowl or the windsheild frame. All of those were so rusted I didn’t even consider keeping them. I’m actually surprised that the doors didn’t just fall off!

F3A07698-5C75-429C-924E-984C5FE35161.jpeg

43C3CD89-D394-4AC5-8357-E3FB0EDC3F18.jpeg
 
For the parts that aren't made, the best option is to find a clean truck cab and cut that apart. That's where I got my A-pillar pieces. My windshield frame actually wasn't too bad, so I was able to patch it.
 
Jimmywood said:
Thanks Greg, attached is where I’m at today. Definitely an onion club member. I’m surprised to find that I can’t find front door pillars or the inner cowl or the windsheild frame. All of those were so rusted I didn’t even consider keeping them. I’m actually surprised that the doors didn’t just fall off!

View attachment 296173

View attachment 296174
Click to expand...

The frame is looking very nice. Great work.:waytogo:

I had heard that you can get the upper windshield now from Wes and just looked it up. It may help you a bit. :dunno:

http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Sheetmetal/69-72 Blazer Header Bow Set.htm
 
Frame and power train look great, nice work! But, while you have access, I would fix the filler neck on the tank, hope you didn't throw out your old tank away, since removing the filler neck from it is the easiest solution to the problem. The factory filler runs right in front of the body mount. Use a chisel to start a hole and the follow up with avaition shears. the repo tank filler neck is brazed on, so I ended up grinding it off with a dremel and cut off wheel, easy to see the gold brazing, just don't go past it

Once the old filler neck is off the tank, you can simply heat it up with a torch and remove the excess metal, don't forget to remove the 2 nuts on the studs

Hoses can be had at filler neck supply, we have odd size hoses

I have to agree with an earlier post " that is the best looking rusty truck I have ever seen"
 
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