72 K5 Blazer 700r4 upgrade

[tarussell]

i'll have to bolt it on and see.

do you have a link for the space?

Usually these are used if the lift has left too little spline engagement as kind of a band-aid fix - chances are you won’t need one of these if you’re only trying to clear the crossmember.
The length of the CV covers that area and the front tube is pretty small on these front shafts giving room in that area.

 

[r3bartl]

1st I found the cable bracket I used, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZXKP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I could not make the factory TH350 bracket work.
I also didn't care for the universal/adjustable casing TV cables and used similar to https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Y-228-Detent-Cable/dp/B000C8TAHO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=6FPCKLJIJK4F&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XHAUUy1bBLaFPr3IbS9Q3GPLQ9j2G_iF3VRKxbWLQZTh5OKzByz2r5XcS6lRBKluMzbQuddPWDeJGQJweH6pERpKtxIdha8Uso10nir3p1smpY79yCNKZEQEs9pkJg7AlOnsHX9XW02YsXb8N7yPWAEuoReA-BrIhHMZ1y36Hr6qHyegicMthmwDbtaN-xlziaLXCiFNvEua_4uuUVUodGvVMwjZm4ce7HoFiPnPESE.FzM73vK0ZIYjLqIYYUZhoZowt4yyiaJGlg6sdrV_Q7E&dib_tag=se&keywords=throttle+valve+cable&qid=1724206795&sprefix=throttle+valve,aps,149&sr=8-1

The Sonnax https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2766-carburetor-tv-linkage-corrector-kit.

If you have the pan off you will see the Throttle Valve plunger in the valve body (blue arrow), and the lever that pushes the plunger (red Arrow). The tv cable actuates this lever.
View attachment 484335
Ideal is to have the the lever touching the plunger, no slack or space, so as soon as throttle starts to move the plunger is moving. If you can't get it to just touch, then a little pressure on the plunger is better than a gap between the two. No matter what the cable looks like up top if you get the lever touching the plunger and have full throttle you are good.

Add the Sonnax spring to the end of the cable, then snap on to carb linkage. This picture show how the spring is installed, this is not a Quadrajet carb linkage.
View attachment 484336
It is nice to have a helper move the throttle/step on peddle while you watch the lever and plunger, for finial check at least.

My trans has @ 20k miles set up this way. I have an Edelbrock 1902 copy of a 4mv, divorced choke. Should be very similar to yours linkage wise.

This

Usually these are used if the lift has left too little spline engagement as kind of a band-aid fix - chances are you won’t need one of these if you’re only trying to clear the crossmember.
The length of the CV covers that area and the front tube is pretty small on these front shafts giving room in that area.
View attachment 484344

This is how far back the TC is from the member. I got a local company making me a custom driveshaft for the rear so once that's done he'll have a look at the front. Hopefully the double cardigan will clear it.

 

[r3bartl]

1st I found the cable bracket I used, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZXKP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I could not make the factory TH350 bracket work.
I also didn't care for the universal/adjustable casing TV cables and used similar to https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Y-228-Detent-Cable/dp/B000C8TAHO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=6FPCKLJIJK4F&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XHAUUy1bBLaFPr3IbS9Q3GPLQ9j2G_iF3VRKxbWLQZTh5OKzByz2r5XcS6lRBKluMzbQuddPWDeJGQJweH6pERpKtxIdha8Uso10nir3p1smpY79yCNKZEQEs9pkJg7AlOnsHX9XW02YsXb8N7yPWAEuoReA-BrIhHMZ1y36Hr6qHyegicMthmwDbtaN-xlziaLXCiFNvEua_4uuUVUodGvVMwjZm4ce7HoFiPnPESE.FzM73vK0ZIYjLqIYYUZhoZowt4yyiaJGlg6sdrV_Q7E&dib_tag=se&keywords=throttle+valve+cable&qid=1724206795&sprefix=throttle+valve,aps,149&sr=8-1

The Sonnax https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2766-carburetor-tv-linkage-corrector-kit.

If you have the pan off you will see the Throttle Valve plunger in the valve body (blue arrow), and the lever that pushes the plunger (red Arrow). The tv cable actuates this lever.
View attachment 484335
Ideal is to have the the lever touching the plunger, no slack or space, so as soon as throttle starts to move the plunger is moving. If you can't get it to just touch, then a little pressure on the plunger is better than a gap between the two. No matter what the cable looks like up top if you get the lever touching the plunger and have full throttle you are good.

Add the Sonnax spring to the end of the cable, then snap on to carb linkage. This picture show how the spring is installed, this is not a Quadrajet carb linkage.
View attachment 484336
It is nice to have a helper move the throttle/step on peddle while you watch the lever and plunger, for finial check at least.

My trans has @ 20k miles set up this way. I have an Edelbrock 1902 copy of a 4mv, divorced choke. Should be very similar to yours linkage wise.

This is perfect. I'll check it/adjust it with the transmission filter gets put in. Do all that The one time. Thank you.

 

[imiceman44]

This

View attachment 484426
This is how far back the TC is from the member. I got a local company making me a custom driveshaft for the rear so once that's done he'll have a look at the front. Hopefully the double cardigan will clear it.

The double cardan will clear.
It's a stock setup and it was designed that way

 

[Blue85]

Usually these are used if the lift has left too little spline engagement as kind of a band-aid fix - chances are you won’t need one of these if you’re only trying to clear the crossmember.
The length of the CV covers that area and the front tube is pretty small on these front shafts giving room in that area.

I run a 1" spacer to move the C/V joint further forward. It's the fat joint that hits, not the skinny tube. I had already cut the crossmember away to get more driveshaft clearance and reinforced it lower. These cases sit pretty far back and aren't really designed for lifts or flexy leaves. Even when I had the shaft custom made to my dimensions I kept the spacer for the increased crossmember clearance it provides.

 

[imiceman44]

I run a 1" spacer to move the C/V joint further forward. It's the fat joint that hits, not the skinny tube. I had already cut the crossmember away to get more driveshaft clearance and reinforced it lower. These cases sit pretty far back and aren't really designed for lifts or flexy leaves. Even when I had the shaft custom made to my dimensions I kept the spacer for the increased crossmember clearance it provides.

I forgot about the lift.
That could get the cv closer to the cross member

 

[tarussell]

I run a 1" spacer to move the C/V joint further forward. It's the fat joint that hits, not the skinny tube. I had already cut the crossmember away to get more driveshaft clearance and reinforced it lower. These cases sit pretty far back and aren't really designed for lifts or flexy leaves. Even when I had the shaft custom made to my dimensions I kept the spacer for the increased crossmember clearance it provides.

We use to eliminate the CV on front shaft of big lifted squares with about 8” plus and still run the small diameter tube ( Frankenstein combo of yokes ) for crossmember clearance - even found a few OEM members that had a large factory dent/v-bend/dimple on the front side that somewhat helped in certain cases.

Neither the SPICER or Saginaw CV’s would give much angle even after major grinding and clearance work so we had to get “crafty” with yokes for the 10, 30 & 32 spline front outputs with the 1310 stuff.

It wasn’t long before these shafts weren’t strong enough and than we got into the 1350 stuff.

We use to think we were really doing something with a 1350 front shaft back in those days…and now we can get 1410 CV shafts with serious angles of operation - we would have lost our minds if this stuff was available back then!

 

[r3bartl]

Just an update. Finally got the trans cover off and this was the TV cable adjustment

I'm really hoping I got to it before any damage was done. The fluid was red but you could see the grey in it. No metal flakes tho.

 

[r3bartl]

@Wes Harden another question for you. Just took the ol girl on her first trip down the road sense I bought it. My god is she rough lol. But I love it. I adjusted the TV cable with the pan off so I could see it. And we adjusted it so it was touching the plunger. Today when I drove it she shifted at about 25 km/h which is 15 mph. From what I've read that's about right. Between 15 to 20. Now I'm using 33 inch tires with a 411 rear. Does that still seem right? Also first to second is a pretty noticeable shift. Not a bang but you know she shifted. And it seems like she hangs up alittle. When i let the gas go she'll shift into second. Could that be to much line pressure and maybe dial it out a bit? Or is that safer then to soft a shift and possibly burning her up

 

[6872xtc]

It sounds good to me.
I always have mine shift firm to hard, but my wife is annoyed by them..

But I want them to have enough line pressure to keep from excessive slip on full throttle shifts.

 

[r3bartl]

It sounds good to me.
I always have mine shift firm to hard, but my wife is annoyed by them..

But I want them to have enough line pressure to keep from excessive slip on full throttle shifts.

Do you find it shifts smoother under full throttle compared to regular driving?

Read that in a thread, haven't tried it myself yet.

 

[Wes Harden]

Mine shifts harder with more throttle, shifts pretty smooth under lite throttle.
Mine shifts 1-2 @11mph 4.88 and 33s.
But it will and does have a firm shift when working. Been that way since thus trans was installed.

 

[r3bartl]

Mine shifts harder with more throttle, shifts pretty smooth under lite throttle.
Mine shifts 1-2 @11mph 4.88 and 33s.
But it will and does have a firm shift when working. Been that way since thus trans was installed.

Well sounds like she's just right then. I'll keep it where she's too.

4.88? Lol not for highway use haha

 

[Wes Harden]

Na it's really happy at 75 80 that's 2500 to 3000 rpm

 

[6872xtc]

Do you find it shifts smoother under full throttle compared to regular driving?

Read that in a thread, haven't tried it myself yet.

Not really.
It seems a little less harsh possibly, but I figure that it's because of tire slippage and the increase in power causes a tad of slip versus light throttle.

 

[r3bartl]

@6872xtc @Wes Harden do you guys normally drive in OD or D? What's appropriate for when?

 

[6872xtc]

I use OD a fair amount because I have a good amount of 45 to 55 mph sections. My '70 and '72 both have a rocker switch for the torque convertor lock-up, so I can lock them quickly. And both of those trucks are good with low speed, low rpm in OD on flat roads. Most will tell you not to use OD in the way that I do. (below 50 mph)
Then when I get into town, I drop to drive.

 

[r3bartl]

So normally OD would be for highway and D for in the city? Most of where I live too is steep hills and 50kmh roads. I don't think I'll see 4th gear lock up to often lol.

I would like to get her to a place where she's good enough to be on the highway.

I haven't shown her yet but this is her. The project lol.

 

[r3bartl]

I use OD a fair amount because I have a good amount of 45 to 55 mph sections. My '70 and '72 both have a rocker switch for the torque convertor lock-up, so I can lock them quickly. And both of those trucks are good with low speed, low rpm in OD on flat roads. Most will tell you not to use OD in the way that I do. (below 50 mph)
Then when I get into town, I drop to drive.

How Did you wire in your toggle switch? Just a hot wire and a switch to the four pin? Or did u use a relay and oil pressure switch to kick it out when not in fourth?

 

[6872xtc]

Yes, OD is mainly for the highway.

Looks like a great truck to dive into building into what you will have fun with!

If my memory is correct, one of my trucks is just switched ignition power going through the rocker switch, directly to the TCC solenoid. It's internally grounded. I believe that the other has power going into the transmission and the manual switch is on the ground wire for the TCC.
Both trucks are not using the internal pressure switch, so that I can lock it in 2nd, D and OD. I wanted to be able to lock it in drive. I have used the lock-up in 2nd in my K10 to cool the transmission down. (I had been running it slightly aggressively up Imogene Pass to catch up to another truck.)

I haven't ever bothered to install a brake switch in either of them. Laziness, mainly, but it keeps engine braking this way. Lol!