Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
His OCD won't allow that.
Oh crap, I was gonna say the same thing
(btw I live with two who have OCD)CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Oh crap, I was gonna say the same thing
(btw I live with two who have OCD)
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
His OCD won't allow that.
OOOOoooooorrrrrrr, he could change the mounting of the ram such that it isn't parallel to the frame anymore. I'm pretty OCD as well, but if I'd put that much work, into the bender & then it didn't work, I'd let the OCD go so that the tool would work.
I guess we'll see what he works out.
Later,
buddy
Guys, he has already fixed the problem. Go back up several posts and read his fix, he simply removed one of the main arm bolts and then swiveled the main arm around some so he could redrill another hole giving him the angle he needs. If you look at the end of the tube where the main arms bolt you can see he also cut the tube at an angle and replated it for the strength.
He still can't get the drive pin in.
I would have added an "L" shaped backet at the end of the drive arm where the ram mounts to get the angle needed. One bolt on piece to solve the problem...and the drive pin would still have fit.
Two holes for the arm, one for the ram end about 3" perpendicular to the arm.
Rene
Two holes for the arm, one for the ram end about 3" perpendicular to the arm.
Rene
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
I would have added an "L" shaped backet at the end of the drive arm where the ram mounts to get the angle needed. One bolt on piece to solve the problem...and the drive pin would still have fit.
Two holes for the arm, one for the ram end about 3" perpendicular to the arm.
Rene
Best solution yet!!
Very nice.
Later,
Buddy
I would have added an "L" shaped backet at the end of the drive arm where the ram mounts to get the angle needed. One bolt on piece to solve the problem...and the drive pin would still have fit.
Two holes for the arm, one for the ram end about 3" perpendicular to the arm.
Rene
Rene, Buddy, Scott, BobK, BgKYK5, YJ,
Man, I wish it were so easy... this one has been surprisingly hard to resolve and even harder to describe in words. I have definitely thought about a small offset bracket on the bender arms. The rub is that as the ram goes through it's entire range of motion (a total of 24" of stroke) every bracket that I've tried ends up binding up against the clevis mount at the end of the ram. Basically the ram end is a huge "U" shape, and the bracket ends up being about a 3/4" thick piece of flat stock stuck in the middle of it.
With a true "L" shape offset bracket, before the bender even gets to 90*, the inside "throat" of the clevis hits the bracket and binds it up. I've tried making the bracket into a more loose "L" shape to try to get some extra clearance, but it still hits before reaching the end of the useable range for the ram. By the time I clearance it to work, it's going to be really thin on one side of the mounting bolt....maybe too thin.
Ideally, I'd use a bracket that could mount on the OUTSIDE of the clevis, so that the throat of it wouldn't bind up. Unfortunately, the clevis is so large that it's about the same size as the space between the bender arms. I suppose I could build brackets that mount on the outside of the bender arms, instead of inside them (the way I've been doing so far)....that might work.
A ram-mounted clevis with a 1" offset hole would work beautifully also, but I don't know if such a thing even exists.I also like Buddys idea of simply re-drilling the holes (again!) in the frame of the mount. If I moved them toward the edge of the square tubing instead of trying to keep them centered I could probably offset the bender arms 1" closer to the ram-side of the frame. Based on what I'm seeing now, that might provide enough clearance to get the arms to close that final 1/2" - 3/4" that I need.
It's close......really close to being functional now. I guess that's why it's so frustrating. I've got a pile of fresh DOM, and yesterday I even got a new Bosch digital protractor delivered here. I quite literally have EVERYTHING that I need to start going crazy on the cage design and bending. I guess you could say I'm about 3/4" away from getting started....
The last 3/4" is always the hardest. 
Wait just a minute... what the heck am I looking at here? Is there a huge room underneath whole of the floor, or is this just the rocker area? Looks like a helpful asset for drug smugglers.
Also, what state does this truck originate from?
Looking good! Proceed.
Actually it is a big room under the floor, and in my 73 I had a patch opened up and used to hide my guns when they made it illegal to go hunting, we used to pass all the check points and they would search and never found anything.
That was in another country by the way.
I just saw this Greg, and I like what I see, reminds me of when we did this to my 73, it took my brother and me, with the help of the paint shop (2 guys) 3 months to tear down, sand down to bare metal, do patches and paint it with a 2 stage PPG.
We also took the tub off the frame and sandblasted the frame, and painted it epoxy rustoleum flat black.
Keep up the good work.
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
Rene, Buddy, Scott, BobK, BgKYK5, YJ,
Man, I wish it were so easy... this one has been surprisingly hard to resolve and even harder to describe in words. I have definitely thought about a small offset bracket on the bender arms. The rub is that as the ram goes through it's entire range of motion (a total of 24" of stroke) every bracket that I've tried ends up binding up against the clevis mount at the end of the ram. Basically the ram end is a huge "U" shape, and the bracket ends up being about a 3/4" thick piece of flat stock stuck in the middle of it.
With a true "L" shape offset bracket, before the bender even gets to 90*, the inside "throat" of the clevis hits the bracket and binds it up. I've tried making the bracket into a more loose "L" shape to try to get some extra clearance, but it still hits before reaching the end of the useable range for the ram. By the time I clearance it to work, it's going to be really thin on one side of the mounting bolt....maybe too thin.
Ideally, I'd use a bracket that could mount on the OUTSIDE of the clevis, so that the throat of it wouldn't bind up. Unfortunately, the clevis is so large that it's about the same size as the space between the bender arms. I suppose I could build brackets that mount on the outside of the bender arms, instead of inside them (the way I've been doing so far)....that might work.
I also like Buddys idea of simply re-drilling the holes (again!) in the frame of the mount. If I moved them toward the edge of the square tubing instead of trying to keep them centered I could probably offset the bender arms 1" closer to the ram-side of the frame. Based on what I'm seeing now, that might provide enough clearance to get the arms to close that final 1/2" - 3/4" that I need.
It's close......really close to being functional now. I guess that's why it's so frustrating. I've got a pile of fresh DOM, and yesterday I even got a new Bosch digital protractor delivered here. I quite literally have EVERYTHING that I need to start going crazy on the cage design and bending. I guess you could say I'm about 3/4" away from getting started....
Sheesh!! The only thing I though of while you were describing this is to fore go the full extension of the ram by using some kind of a ratcheting extension. That way you could extend the ram as normal without binding and then reverse the ram & continue on with the bend. That would also give you a greater than 90* capability if needed/wanted.
Use the 3/4" slug shape it like,....Oh here's a picture.
Maybe this would work, but you'd obviously have to have a machine shop do it for you.
HTH,
Buddy
The problem isn't with the extension of the ram... it's getting the arms close enough to each other to get all the pins inserted while maintaining enough angularity to allow the ram to initiate a bend.
The ram can bend over 90* in a single-shot, and by re-pinning the die I can go to 180*....
Like I said, it's a difficult problem to put into words...but it's pretty easy to understand if you were standing here looking at it.
The ram can bend over 90* in a single-shot, and by re-pinning the die I can go to 180*....
Like I said, it's a difficult problem to put into words...but it's pretty easy to understand if you were standing here looking at it.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You mean these two holes circled in green right?
Exactly!
2009.02.21 - UPDATE! - IT'S ABOUT TIME!!!
After much deliberation and many fruitless attempts....I finally have a "money shot" for you all...
I ended up re-drilling the main beam for the THIRD time, and moving the arms to an offset position closer to the ram-side of the frame. That gave me the last bit of clearance I needed to get all the drive pins in place and bend some tube.
I have to say it was a great feeling to watch the tube bend SOOO easily to 90*, and then with a quick re-pinning, to take it all the way to 180*.
Now I need to take some measurements and calibrate my BendTech PRO software with the actual bend so that it will give me accurate numbers for my designs.
After much deliberation and many fruitless attempts....I finally have a "money shot" for you all...
I ended up re-drilling the main beam for the THIRD time, and moving the arms to an offset position closer to the ram-side of the frame. That gave me the last bit of clearance I needed to get all the drive pins in place and bend some tube.
I have to say it was a great feeling to watch the tube bend SOOO easily to 90*, and then with a quick re-pinning, to take it all the way to 180*.
Now I need to take some measurements and calibrate my BendTech PRO software with the actual bend so that it will give me accurate numbers for my designs.
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Sweet!! looking forward to the cage build
2009.02.21 - UPDATE! - IT'S ABOUT TIME!!!
After much deliberation and many fruitless attempts....I finally have a "money shot" for you all...
I ended up re-drilling the main beam for the THIRD time, and moving the arms to an offset position closer to the ram-side of the frame. That gave me the last bit of clearance I needed to get all the drive pins in place and bend some tube.
I have to say it was a great feeling to watch the tube bend SOOO easily to 90*, and then with a quick re-pinning, to take it all the way to 180*.
Now I need to take some measurements and calibrate my BendTech PRO software with the actual bend so that it will give me accurate numbers for my designs.
Greg, that does look nice but the "money shot" would have been a pic or rather a video clip of the bender actually bending the tube.
Maybe tomorrow.... Now that it works I'll have plenty of chances to show it in action.
Greg,
I have not poped this thread in some time. BAD ASS work on the hydro setup. My question is has any of the hydro parts in post #333 changed? it what's in that post stayed the same. I want to do this now seeing your setup. I would like to order basically the same parts as what you have. Any thing you would change. I have not read the last few pages yet but I'm getting there.
I have not poped this thread in some time. BAD ASS work on the hydro setup. My question is has any of the hydro parts in post #333 changed? it what's in that post stayed the same. I want to do this now seeing your setup. I would like to order basically the same parts as what you have. Any thing you would change. I have not read the last few pages yet but I'm getting there.
Rob,
As you'll probably read as you get through all this, the only thing I wish I'd done differently is to use longer hydraulic hoses. 2ft and 3ft hoses sound long enough until you actually go to connect everything together. Suddenly, 4ft and 5ft hoses seem like the way to go...
I'll maybe go back and get one additional 90* swivel connector for the hose that comes straight out of the control valve and I may order up two longer hoses to replace the two shortest ones. Those are more aesthetic items for me, and at this point, I'm just anxious to get started on bending so I am not really interested in taking the new "toy" offline for mods.
As you'll probably read as you get through all this, the only thing I wish I'd done differently is to use longer hydraulic hoses. 2ft and 3ft hoses sound long enough until you actually go to connect everything together. Suddenly, 4ft and 5ft hoses seem like the way to go...
I'll maybe go back and get one additional 90* swivel connector for the hose that comes straight out of the control valve and I may order up two longer hoses to replace the two shortest ones. Those are more aesthetic items for me, and at this point, I'm just anxious to get started on bending so I am not really interested in taking the new "toy" offline for mods.
Rob,
As you'll probably read as you get through all this, the only thing I wish I'd done differently is to use longer hydraulic hoses. 2ft and 3ft hoses sound long enough until you actually go to connect everything together. Suddenly, 4ft and 5ft hoses seem like the way to go...
I'll maybe go back and get one additional 90* swivel connector for the hose that comes straight out of the control valve and I may order up two longer hoses to replace the two shortest ones. Those are more aesthetic items for me, and at this point, I'm just anxious to get started on bending so I am not really interested in taking the new "toy" offline for mods.
Ok Cool, no part numbers have changed. Good info on the hoses. Thanks bud
Making a list of items to get. It will be a while but it's something I have decided I want to do. I'm fine with bending manual, but I KNOW if I just wend ahead and did it I would love it. When you actually start bending let us know how easy OR not it is to repeat bends acurately. I have herd some say hydro is easy to ever bend cause it comes up quick. Or when you only need just a smidge more bend, actually just a flex to get it just right, you can over bend cause you can't just flex it, the bender BENDS it. So I'm still a bit apprehensive about doing it.
