Going to take a Texas build to pull that off from the brotherhood.
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
So I have a question for ya Greg, why not blow in insulation in the walls? Then run your wires through conduit on the outside of the sheetrock. I actually prefer the airlines on the outside. As changes are much easier to do.
I realize the wires in conduit can be somewhat annoying but it's a whole lot faster, as is the blow in insulation
I realize the wires in conduit can be somewhat annoying but it's a whole lot faster, as is the blow in insulation
Max air lines nothern tool
2018
life goal = soundproof shop...
life goal = shop
Life goal = get a life
Blown insulation into an existing cavity is always a crapshoot. Nobody knows what's really getting in there, or how many voids are left behind. I like the idea of clean walls with wires / pipes hidden away... just part of my neuroses.
Closed Cell seems to be the exception around here.... too much money and not really necessary for the R-value needed. Both contractors today said the same thing: 5.5" of open cell in the roof deck (which are 2x6") and 3.5" in the wall cavities and around the garage doors if I'm willing to pull that sheetrock too. That's going to be REALLY quiet, tight, and will maintain whatever climate I want inside with NO sweating walls or ceilings. I'll be replacing the crappy metal doors with nice insulated wooden doors anyway.
Amen, brother. I'm going "next level" on this garage renovation. I've learned a lot about what I like and don't like from my last few shop spaces. Can't decide if I want to make the transition to LED overhead lighting this time around... but I'll see if they have anything in the 6500K color temperature. Finished & painted drywall this time too.... probably more cabinet-type doors so I'm not contstanly cleaning dirt off exposed shelving. An epoxy floor and maybe a #SHIPLAP feature wall. I've got a few sets of in-ceiling speakers that never got installed in my old house, so maybe those go into the garage space?
Once @NorCal69 gets me all squared away on my ceiling / mezzanine modification consult I can break out the SawZall and start "reconfigurationing".... building shelves and pulling electrical wire.
-G
Do you like the look of drywall in a shop? I’ve always thought it was too weak for shop walls. If I ever tear down mine and rebuild, the walls would be covered in 3/4” cabinet grade plywood. That way anything could be mounted to pretty much anywhere. Plus it would be cheaper than hanging rock with tape and texture by almost half.
that sh*t's illegal here in joysey.. in our last marina shop we built, we had to hide the ply with rock over it! 
i'm grateful to whoever turned me on to those daylight bulbs for the shop.. awesome! but i've since learned that light spectrum doesn't always carry over well to the indoors..
i'm grateful to whoever turned me on to those daylight bulbs for the shop.. awesome! but i've since learned that light spectrum doesn't always carry over well to the indoors..
I’ll second the concern over gypsum in a garage shop space. Shiplap and other reclaimed siding (flipped to the backside showing) has worked well for my space, and it’s been banged pretty good by materials and parts and my truck. Lots of margin for operator error.
Plywood is a more cost effective 3/4” barrier, but I’ve enjoyed the ease of mounting and hanging junk without searching for a stud.
David
I'm doing 5/8 sheetrock on mine. I might sometime put a hole through it but I doubt it. With a couple exceptions but that will be on top of the sheetrock
I've also found if I just hang a nail in a wall crap gets disorganized
I agree with cabinets not just shelves.
Greg any decent contractor doing blow in insulation will figure out how much every cavity needs and put that amount in. Of course in my calling around I only had one guy say that's what he does.
Foam is a better choice if it can be done because it air seals the building.
Also if you switch to led lights get a high CRI (Color Rendering Index). At least 85.
I'm shooting for 100 lumens per square foot at 3 feet high. That takes alot of lights but it should be plenty bright.
So are you reconfiguring the trusses and opening up the ceiling?
I've also found if I just hang a nail in a wall crap gets disorganized
I agree with cabinets not just shelves.
Greg any decent contractor doing blow in insulation will figure out how much every cavity needs and put that amount in. Of course in my calling around I only had one guy say that's what he does.
Foam is a better choice if it can be done because it air seals the building.
Also if you switch to led lights get a high CRI (Color Rendering Index). At least 85.
I'm shooting for 100 lumens per square foot at 3 feet high. That takes alot of lights but it should be plenty bright.
So are you reconfiguring the trusses and opening up the ceiling?
Honest question... why 5/8’s? The added strength.... fire? I don’t really see the advantage of adding 5/8 unless it was for fire. It’s just not that more “puncture proof” over simple half and it’s not very fun if you get it in 12’s or 14’s for hanging.
His roof is a cut and stack roof, no truss. By code you can’t cut trusses without engineering. Cut and stack you can do what ever you want. Three beams, some framing and some 2x6 hangers and he has his old mezzanine back.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I kinda thought you had to have 5/8" for fire code, at least we did in our old place. I thought you could put up plywood instead though, forget what thickness.
Generally only the common wall and lid would need to be 5/8” fire rated. But you’d need to check down there to see what you can get away with.
If Greg really wants that mezzanine like he’s saying... all of that is out the window anyways.
Eric’s and my hypothetical shop are detached so it really doesn’t matter. Just need something on the walls under 8’ if you have romex. Otherwise you’d need conduit for all electric 8’ and lower.
If Greg really wants that mezzanine like he’s saying... all of that is out the window anyways.
Eric’s and my hypothetical shop are detached so it really doesn’t matter. Just need something on the walls under 8’ if you have romex. Otherwise you’d need conduit for all electric 8’ and lower.
Nope buying in bulk the 5/8 is cheaper. I am doing 5/8 on the ceiling. R-60 is alot of insulation and my trusses are on 24" centers. So if I bought 5/8 for the ceiling and 1/2" for the walls it will cost me more.
I would love to do it in plywood but even the cheapest OSB is 2 bucks a sheet more expensive.
I would love to do it in plywood but even the cheapest OSB is 2 bucks a sheet more expensive.
