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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
imiceman44 said:
So you are saying that only now you are thinking about doing this, I thought it was the plan since you chose to put ORIs.
:pimp:
Just remember you want to try and get it finished before Danger is too old to want to be with you. :whistle:
Click to expand...


Iceman, I've got all SORTS of crazy ideas floating around in my head all the time (remember the automatic fender-tapering sheetmetal idea?).... the point, I suppose is that not all ideas are good and some that ARE good may simply not be worth the effort or expense.

In this case, I'm figuring out the last few bulky items to package under the truck (Dual batteries, dual air compressors, dual air storage tanks).... and will quickly move on to smaller items (air control solenoids, distribution manifolds, etc)..... then it's time to figure out routing for fuel lines, brake lines, air lines, axle breather lines, etc. If I'm going to run braided lines for nitrogen fill then now is the time to make the commitment and figure out the routing and placement of the shutoff valves, etc.

This one isn't really going too far off the build path, and it seems like the end result would justify the expense of extra components and a bit more effort in the packaging of the lines underneath the truck.


-G
 
So what happens at some speed over 10MPH, or going around a corner and a leak springs? Do you lose the suspension?

I’d be tempted to put in some kind of fail safe that only allows gas to flow out of the ORI when you want it to, not because of a leak. Some kind of one way valve that’s tied really close to the strut body to reduce leak potential.
 
Greg72 said:
Iceman, I've got all SORTS of crazy ideas floating around in my head all the time (remember the automatic fender-tapering sheetmetal idea?).... the point, I suppose is that not all ideas are good and some that ARE good may simply not be worth the effort or expense.

In this case, I'm figuring out the last few bulky items to package under the truck (Dual batteries, dual air compressors, dual air storage tanks).... and will quickly move on to smaller items (air control solenoids, distribution manifolds, etc)..... then it's time to figure out routing for fuel lines, brake lines, air lines, axle breather lines, etc. If I'm going to run braided lines for nitrogen fill then now is the time to make the commitment and figure out the routing and placement of the shutoff valves, etc.

This one isn't really going too far off the build path, and it seems like the end result would justify the expense of extra components and a bit more effort in the packaging of the lines underneath the truck.


-G
Click to expand...
Oh believe me I know how you are, the only difference between you and me, you have the discipline to accomplish some of it, albeit not too quickly.
Thank God no one can see in my head what kind of projects are brewing and how many and how crazy.
I might finally be in a job where I could soon think about organizing my time and start getting some done
 
bp71k5 said:
So what happens at some speed over 10MPH, or going around a corner and a leak springs? Do you lose the suspension?

I’d be tempted to put in some kind of fail safe that only allows gas to flow out of the ORI when you want it to, not because of a leak. Some kind of one way valve that’s tied really close to the strut body to reduce leak potential.
Click to expand...


Brian,

This is the gizmo on the dual-fill kit from ORI. Basically, I'd just screw these directly to the existing Schrader valves with some thread sealant and these would be my failsafes.....

https://www.toolsource.com/air-coup...1c_jpYSVq8MlJQywkwf3wFAPylOCNBiRoCQvUQAvD_BwE

Then....run all the longer lines to the manifold, ball valves, and Nitrogen supply....


-G
 
Once you get the trucks suspension set up you'll never want to change it. So to me its a really big time waster you will never use.
 
Greg72 said:
Brian,

This is the gizmo on the dual-fill kit from ORI. Basically, I'd just screw these directly to the existing Schrader valves with some thread sealant and these would be my failsafes.....

https://www.toolsource.com/air-coup...1c_jpYSVq8MlJQywkwf3wFAPylOCNBiRoCQvUQAvD_BwE

Then....run all the longer lines to the manifold, ball valves, and Nitrogen supply....


-G
Click to expand...

So you close that valve when the truck start moving? I had thought you wanted to be able to adjust it up/down in the drivers seat? I’m guessing those valves press the little schrader valve down and hold it down the whole time that knob is turned?
 
bp71k5 said:
So you close that valve when the truck start moving? I had thought you wanted to be able to adjust it up/down in the drivers seat? I’m guessing those valves press the little schrader valve down and hold it down the whole time that knob is turned?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's fine with me.... cracking open those valves is easy and fast. Not looking for "real time" adjustability from the driver's seat. But if we were trail running and the truck was beating us up with a stiff ride, it would be nice to crack open a few valves make a quick pressure adjustment and then jump right back on the trail to make a new assessment in just a couple of minutes. Depending on how the truck turns out (CG and stability-wise), it might be desirable on certain obstacles to add some ride height for offroading for extra clearance underneath.... or even to remove some height on obstacles that punish High-CG/Short-Wheelbase vehicles (thinking about something like "High Dive" on the Behind The Rocks trail... I've seen some video of that and it seems like low is better than tall on that one)

The 3 & 4-Link calculator numbers were run at a variety of different ride heights (all other items held constant) and the AS% barely changes in a range of maybe 6" of ride heights. Theoretically at least, the truck should stay predictable with low AS% regardless of how much lift is put into the truck.... that was deliberate and it took quite a bit of extra time to design link points and angles that would behave like that. Being able to make quick changes and just experimenting with setups is just another thing to enjoy once this truck is operational. Really looking forward to messing around with it and learning what works best.


-G
 
Greg, you do realize that when you adjust the ORI's you do it with out any weight on the suspension. Kind of hard to do on the trail.

But hey I have only had to them like five times on my brothers rig and they are a pain in the butt.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Greg, you do realize that when you adjust the ORI's you do it with out any weight on the suspension. Kind of hard to do on the trail.

But hey I have only had to them like five times on my brothers rig and they are a pain in the butt.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you got some bad information. ORIs don't have any special requirements like that.
You prefill the lower chambers with a small amount of nitrogen (like maybe 50psi) then you charge the uppers until they lift the vehicle to the height (or visible chrome) that you want.


-G
 
2020.06.30 - UPDATE! - ISO - BENCHTOP METAL LATHE...

I'm running into a few roadblocks in the build that I could easily resolve with a lathe. Space is always at a premium so I'm looking at a benchtop version, but want to speed up the whole research phase so I'll just throw the question out to the group. If you already know of a thread that discusses this, or have something that you like in your own shop please let me know. I'd like to get feedback on the kinds of work that they do well, and maybe some suggestions on a brand name / model .... even ones to avoid. That helps too. If this whole tool segment is filled with junk I guess I can just give up on the whole idea too.. but would like to at least take a look at what's available.

I have some other updates to post, but I want to give the floor to @NorCal69 since he's got a sweet update on his build... so he is the one who deserves all the CK5 eyeballs for the next few days!!! :waytogo:


-G
 
Most everything for lathes and machining tools is Chinese garbage now days. If you can find good older stuff they are the best. I'll ask the machinists here at work what they recommend. I know one guy bought a lathe right before he retired the beginning of this year but I can't remember what brand.
 
Truckman4life said:
Most everything for lathes and machining tools is Chinese garbage now days. If you can find good older stuff they are the best. I'll ask the machinists here at work what they recommend. I know one guy bought a lathe right before he retired the beginning of this year but I can't remember what brand.
Click to expand...

Appreciate that! :waytogo:

I know that this is a tough question to answer. The hardcore machinists need a level of precision that is unnecessary for the kind of work I'd do... so I suspect they will recommend a much larger and more capable machine that I don't want to find room (or $$$) for... I'd like to be able to turn down some tubing or small parts, maybe do some threading, machine pockets into existing parts, maybe end-notching... pretty simple needs really.


-G
 
You won't be machining pockets or notching on a lathe, that is for a mill. Top name brand and still able to find a good used tabletop version is a South Bend.
 


Yeah, this is a tough one. I really don't want to keep giving up floor space so I'd really like to find the most useful machine possible for the space I'm willing to allocate. If the machine can do drillpress-type work, I could possibly just swap out my current drillpress for a slightly larger machine and use the same spot in the garage. That would be ideal.. just don't know enough about it all yet.

-G
 
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