CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'm curious to know if this means that some coil springs are going to make an appearance here soon?
My guess is either coilovers or air shocks.
Wow.
Are your axle side upper link mounts going to get into the underside of the body?
Expect to see a "power bulge" in the rear floor area near the wheeltubs!!
The ORI's are still a way off....partly because they run something like $800/ea but also because they are on 12-week lead times once I place the order. The real challenge is the upper link "tower".
Take a closer look at that photo... see the way that mount is cocked outwards on the drooping side? That means that I can't just weld a set of mounting tabs next to the link mount and run the struts there. When things start to flex there will be interference between the link mount and the strut... unless I place it WAAAAY out on the axletube to avoid contact.
OR...
I could mount the strut approximately 4" forward of the axle centerline, or 4" behind the axle centerline on a small fabricated platform built off the axle. This would keep the strut out of direct line with the travel of the link mount and should let everything clear. The question is: From a suspension damping effectivness perspective would it be better to mount the strut in front the axle, or behind it???
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With little to no give in the links, I don't think front vs. rear matters much. If it was a leaf spring suspension and you were trying to use the shocks to control wrap, it would probly matter though. I'd put them in the rear to protect them from rocks, etc.
rufusbooth
1/2 ton status
Front to rear I would think would have three overall effects.
1. The front or rear location would determine how much overall travel you would need. For example in a front mount situation you could use a shorter travel shock
2. The effective damping will be impacted by location. If the shock were mounted in front the arms would have more "leverage" on the shock and the valving would need to be adjusted stiffer.
3. The mounting location I think will also impact the spring rates you choose (if using coil overs) for the same leverage/travel reasons above.
unfortunately, in the long run you need to finish the truck up and get the corners weighed at final assembly and run the calculations based on mounting positions and final sprung weight.
Now, is this nitpicking and anal? Absolutely! but given the calculations you have been putting into your suspension I figure you will enjoy digging your teeth into this one as well.
In any case, Just wanted to say this build is awesome and keep posting up the great images and descriptions. It keeps me motivated to keep working on my truck.
Rufus
1. The front or rear location would determine how much overall travel you would need. For example in a front mount situation you could use a shorter travel shock
2. The effective damping will be impacted by location. If the shock were mounted in front the arms would have more "leverage" on the shock and the valving would need to be adjusted stiffer.
3. The mounting location I think will also impact the spring rates you choose (if using coil overs) for the same leverage/travel reasons above.
unfortunately, in the long run you need to finish the truck up and get the corners weighed at final assembly and run the calculations based on mounting positions and final sprung weight.
Now, is this nitpicking and anal? Absolutely! but given the calculations you have been putting into your suspension I figure you will enjoy digging your teeth into this one as well.
In any case, Just wanted to say this build is awesome and keep posting up the great images and descriptions. It keeps me motivated to keep working on my truck.
Rufus
Expect to see a "power bulge" in the rear floor area near the wheeltubs!!
And that will be good for an extra 15 HP too, so it will make it go faster in ther 1/4 mile. Bad ass!
It's the same performance engineering principles as putting stickers on your rig. It ALWAYS is good for a few extra hidden HP you just need to dig for, and the chicks dig it too,.......no really, they do, Especially if your equipped with a "POWER BULGE"The chicks will be fighting each other to get to you Greg to figure out just whats under that High Performance Custom Fabricated STEEL POWER BULGE!
j/k
2010.05.10 - UPDATE! - AN EXTRA 1.5HP ADDED TO THE BUILD!
Thank you eBay.... this makes a nice addition to my shop. APEX 20" 1.5HP Disc Sander.
This is by FAR the scariest tool in my garage.... when this thing gets up to speed it absolutely screams, and when I shut it off it spins for literally about 4 minutes afterwards.
Pure skin and finger-removing power.... scary and exciting.
Thank you eBay.... this makes a nice addition to my shop. APEX 20" 1.5HP Disc Sander.
This is by FAR the scariest tool in my garage.... when this thing gets up to speed it absolutely screams, and when I shut it off it spins for literally about 4 minutes afterwards.
Pure skin and finger-removing power.... scary and exciting.
one of the best additions to my shop... tho mine is not nearly the oldschool animal that thing is... sweet...
Look at that, the thing is so heavy it cracked your concrete garage floor.
Holy shnikees. What'd that thing cost to ship??!?
Some gas, he picked it up. Looks great Greg. I told ya there kind of a scary piece of equipment
. Wait till you get that new 36 grit disc on it, it's just more scary with that very sharp fresh disc on it, don't know why but it is. Greg and I have been talking disc grinders for a bit. I've had my 20" for about 10 years now. One of the best pieces of equipment I have bought period.
OK, so how close should I set up the table to the sanding disc? I don't want an excessive gap (finger width would be BAD for obvious reasons). Right now it's at around 1/4"....but it looks like the motor base is slotted to allow the entire motor/disc combo to be brought in or out from the table surface.
My temptation is to tighten it up to 1/8" to prevent it from sucking in small metal items, body parts, etc.
Overall the machine is in great shape. There is one broken part underneath (the crescent shaped cast part for angling the table is cracked near the bolt hole) so I'd like to locate a source for repair parts. Otherwise the machine has a great patina and runs smooth as butter...so I'm tempted to leave it looking the way it is now that I've cleaned off the excess funkiness and sawdust.
I think building a tapered dust chute off the bottom will be a high-priority too. It will be great not to have so much flapwheel dust circulating in the air anymore.
My temptation is to tighten it up to 1/8" to prevent it from sucking in small metal items, body parts, etc.
Overall the machine is in great shape. There is one broken part underneath (the crescent shaped cast part for angling the table is cracked near the bolt hole) so I'd like to locate a source for repair parts. Otherwise the machine has a great patina and runs smooth as butter...so I'm tempted to leave it looking the way it is now that I've cleaned off the excess funkiness and sawdust.
I think building a tapered dust chute off the bottom will be a high-priority too. It will be great not to have so much flapwheel dust circulating in the air anymore.
Greg, I would bring the table as close as possible without touching the disc. There is no reason not to.
OK, so how close should I set up the table to the sanding disc? I don't want an excessive gap (finger width would be BAD for obvious reasons). Right now it's at around 1/4"....but it looks like the motor base is slotted to allow the entire motor/disc combo to be brought in or out from the table surface.
My temptation is to tighten it up to 1/8" to prevent it from sucking in small metal items, body parts, etc.
Overall the machine is in great shape. There is one broken part underneath (the crescent shaped cast part for angling the table is cracked near the bolt hole) so I'd like to locate a source for repair parts. Otherwise the machine has a great patina and runs smooth as butter...so I'm tempted to leave it looking the way it is now that I've cleaned off the excess funkiness and sawdust.
I think building a tapered dust chute off the bottom will be a high-priority too. It will be great not to have so much flapwheel dust circulating in the air anymore.
As long as you can get a disc installed between the table and disc plate as close as possible as Scott said is good. The dust shoot I made for mine works awesomw. It does help keep grinding grit pileing up on the floor. Did you see at the McMasterCarr link I sent you?
Ordered a 5-pack of the 36'ers today.....shipping out of their NJ warehouse tonight.
I'll slap on a new disc once they arrive and set the table gap to .00010" in your honor!
I'll slap on a new disc once they arrive and set the table gap to .00010" in your honor!
Ordered a 5-pack of the 36'ers today.....shipping out of their NJ warehouse tonight.
I'll slap on a new disc once they arrive and set the table gap to .00010" in your honor!
Come on Greg, .00001" would be better.
C'mon Scotty....we're not building a space shuttle here!
We regularly ran 1/16" or less gap to the disc on a similar machine. The biggest problem we had was adhesive buildup over time. It got so it was a major undertaking to change discs, so nobody would change it.
I got fed up one day, peeled off what i could then fired it up and used a big flat screwdriver to clean the backing plate...like a wood lathe.
Pretty spooky but it cleaned all the crap off the back plate in about 20 seconds.
I don't recommend that method for obvious reasons.
Rene
I got fed up one day, peeled off what i could then fired it up and used a big flat screwdriver to clean the backing plate...like a wood lathe.
Pretty spooky but it cleaned all the crap off the back plate in about 20 seconds.I don't recommend that method for obvious reasons.
Rene
Dr. Custom Werx
Registered Member
lookin sick man. try not to tip your welding gun at so much of an angle and you should find your welds will smooth and flatten out some. you going to hit those brackets with paper son it looked like one smooth forged piece or show your welds off? LOTS of work still left to do. you going 3 link up front? its tuff to fit all that crap under and around the engine/steering.
