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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
ktmoutfront said:
One issue I see newby TIG welders have is, not grinding the tip with a clean grinding wheel. And I don't remember what the wheel is called, but it is white.
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Do you use the gas lens style diffuser or the standard collet-holed ones? All of the cups I got with the machine seem pretty small compared to the stuff I see when I watch videos on YouTube (weldingtipsandtricks.com). Those cups seem to be really wide and shallow. Maybe a bit easier to get into tight spaces too?

:dunno:

Found some diamond wheels on Amazon that might work for sharpening....or a dedicated tungsten sharpener in the $300-$1000 range! :eek1:


-G
 
Buy the tungstdn sharpening wheel. It is well worth every penny. Mine was a Bday gift from my wife.

As for cups, I have foumd having a couple of sizes is ok. I have a long small diameter for tight places. A large diameter for most of my welding.

Being comfortable and having a good position is key while learning. Do small increments in adjusting the machine. TIG takes time to learn and practice is key.
 
TIG requires lots of practice and patients to get even kinda decent at. Its been said but the cleaner stuff is the easier to weld it'll be. Cup sizes are for getting into tighter or covering larger weld areas. I do 95% of my tig with I think a #10 cup.

Filler diameter doesn't need to match the tungsten diameter. I've always matched filler size to how many amps I'm welding and what size weld I'm trying to make. Lower amps the thinner filler wire works better. Big gap to filler, big wire is better because it'll cover more area before needing another one.

160 amps is getting a bit high for 1/16 tungsten. I use 3/32 most of the time. I do have 1/8 but rarely use it. I also agree with having a dedicated grinding stone.

Till you get the hang of it, just keep all the fancy pulse stuff off. I have the same machine and I almost never use it, but I have it if I need it.

Also to learn torch tip control without using filler, try and make a puddle and work it in a straight line. Its a fusion weld but its good practice to learn how to hold the torch. Have fun with it, write your name and such on the metal.

Once you get the hang of it, you'll reach for your tig more then the mig. I know I do.
 
I would say to back your argon off to 15 instead of 20 to save some gas. Unless you're tiging in the wind.
 
I would recommend the tig drill (at least I think that's what he calls it) that Jody on weldingtipsandtricks.com suggests. When first learning, just stick to flat position on a small piece of steel (like 3"x6" or 2"x4"). Just run beads back and forth across the piece only 2" or 3" at a time, switching from left to right hand each time. Prevents you from starting any bad habits in such a short distance. Just cover that piece of material with beads, quenching every 2 to 3 beads. Once you get that down, then start the out of position stuff.
 
Come on now, we need more pics of this revised frame section. How about pics of those finished wheels?
 
4X4HIGH said:
Well get on it, times a wasting.
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Ball-Busters.jpg
 
Sweet work on the frame Greg.

On the TIG, I think it will be easier with a 3/32 2% lanth tungsten and a 1/16" filler rod.

Also, keep in mind when learning, the TIG torch should be relatively smooth travel with little motion at all, the filler hand should be doing most of the moving around. Once you get better at seperating the hand movements then you can start working with torch movement more. A smooth torch movement with even filler dabbing will make a nice weld.

Also, a rule of thumb is about 1 A per .001" metal, or a little higher.

And remember, its a foot pedal, not a foot switch.

With that said, TIG is fun isn't it? The machine humm is so smooth without the crackle of MIG wire.
 
folkenheath said:
Sweet work on the frame Greg.

On the TIG, I think it will be easier with a 3/32 2% lanth tungsten and a 1/16" filler rod.

Also, keep in mind when learning, the TIG torch should be relatively smooth travel with little motion at all, the filler hand should be doing most of the moving around. Once you get better at seperating the hand movements then you can start working with torch movement more. A smooth torch movement with even filler dabbing will make a nice weld.

Also, a rule of thumb is about 1 A per .001" metal, or a little higher.

And remember, its a foot pedal, not a foot switch.

With that said, TIG is fun isn't it? The machine humm is so smooth without the crackle of MIG wire.
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Got my 3/32" tungstens finally.... I think tomorrow I'll do some more practicing... It's fun for sure, even though I still suck at it. :D

-G
 
You already have the 3/32 collets?

One more thing I had to pay specific attention too when I first started TIG (which wasn't long ago), is to make sure you dab the filler only in the puddle. Especially with aluminum, it's easy to get distracted by using 3 limbs to control the welding and then not realize you are dabbing on the edge of the puddle and not directly in it. This is especially true for aluminum because the puddle is not quite as obvious as steel.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Ok, so we're 3 days into the new year AND it's a weekend and still no more spy photos?
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Nope.


Not unless you want to see house remodeling photos....


Tomorrow is a guaranteed shop day. :waytogo:


-G
 
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