be grateful it's not a boat, hi-end headers can run 5, 6 g's.....
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Well there you go!
Just got to move my family down to the shore, and I can start my new career... and I'll finally get my chance to meet you in-person at the marina!!!
-G
Well there you go!
Just got to move my family down to the shore, and I can start my new career... and I'll finally get my chance to meet you in-person at the marina!!!
-G
Well there you go these headers might be the most "profitable" part of this build.
And Angry Mallard 2 guy's and a truck.
Yeah those boat headers are crazy! They have to be double walled and hollow to flow coolant in between the tubes right? Not to mention corrosion resistance. That would be pretty difficult to make.
When Car Craft/ Hot Rod built the "F-Bomb" Camaro, the custom stainless turbo headers cost them $5500....
yeah, jacketed... I have a welder bud that prolly makes 50% of his income from race boat headers....
Wanna borrow some tapes?
Put me in a large, well-lit shop environment (think Terrible Herbst or almost any professional race team), that's well-organized, clean and mostly quiet.... and that's about the best job I could imagine. I'd love being surrounded by meticulously crafted trucks / cars, etc. with unlimited budgets...and the kind of craftsmen who spend hours and hours sweating all the tiniest details.
I'll borrow a few tapes for my Walkman (the one with the orange foam earpads).... thanks for that Gramps!.....
-G
Just going to change my name now. Lol
I haven't forgotten about this thread.
It's been really hot and humid lately and it's creating an odd new problem in my workshop..... the floors have YEARS-worth of embedded grinding dust in them and over the years it's slowly changed the color of my cement from light gray to light orange. (You can see this in the recent photos I've posted of the shop) No matter how much sweeping or vacuuming I did, I could never remove it all....
Moisture has either been wicking up through the concrete pad (or condensing from the air above) and the floor has been damp for days. The side-effect is that the rust on the floor is now tracking all over the shop floor when I walk.... and carrying out onto the driveway, the front entryway, and the mudroom of the house (where I'm smart enough to at least take off my shoes!)
A few days ago, I'd had enough and did some research on the Google. It turns out that oxalic acid is the most common way to remove rust stains from concrete so I ordered up 5Lbs and have been working to wash/scrub the floors so that I can reclaim my workshop.
I spend a couple of hours at it last night with fans blowing and the doors wide open trying not to breathe the fumes.... the results aren't too bad, but I've still got a few areas with heavy staining.
It's a LOT better than it was, so I'll take a few photos and post them up for the "BEFORE" and "AFTER" comparisons.
Ultimately, I just want a clean area to unpack all my new boxes in and not have to worry about everything getting spoiled if it happens to touch the floor.
-G
It's been really hot and humid lately and it's creating an odd new problem in my workshop..... the floors have YEARS-worth of embedded grinding dust in them and over the years it's slowly changed the color of my cement from light gray to light orange. (You can see this in the recent photos I've posted of the shop) No matter how much sweeping or vacuuming I did, I could never remove it all....
Moisture has either been wicking up through the concrete pad (or condensing from the air above) and the floor has been damp for days. The side-effect is that the rust on the floor is now tracking all over the shop floor when I walk.... and carrying out onto the driveway, the front entryway, and the mudroom of the house (where I'm smart enough to at least take off my shoes!)
A few days ago, I'd had enough and did some research on the Google. It turns out that oxalic acid is the most common way to remove rust stains from concrete so I ordered up 5Lbs and have been working to wash/scrub the floors so that I can reclaim my workshop.
I spend a couple of hours at it last night with fans blowing and the doors wide open trying not to breathe the fumes.... the results aren't too bad, but I've still got a few areas with heavy staining.
It's a LOT better than it was, so I'll take a few photos and post them up for the "BEFORE" and "AFTER" comparisons.
Ultimately, I just want a clean area to unpack all my new boxes in and not have to worry about everything getting spoiled if it happens to touch the floor.
-G
Time for epoxy once this is cleaned up.. Seal up the floor.
I guess.... what a huge and expensive "side project" though.
The garage is packed with not only the project truck itself, but the tool boxes, materials, bender, etc, etc, etc.....
It could take weeks to get everything moved into some kind of weather-proof, and secure storage area, and then prep the floor for epoxy.
Don't get me wrong, I'd LOVE an epoxy floor but it would be a huge distraction from the work that I really NEED to do to keep this build moving along at a respectable pace.
-G
Why would you tear everything out of the garage? Just move everything to one side, prep and paint half, then do the other side.
You speak as if that's effortless....
If I were going to do an epoxy floor, it would be professionally installed (with a warranty).... and I doubt they'd want to screw around with making 2 separate trips for a job this small.
-G
Just do it after the truck is done... won't be much longer anyway! 
Weld neckid and install shower in mud room.
Why not put lockable tile down? Swiss track makes a nice product.
Link?
How flat does the floor need to be to get a good quality result?
This floor is pretty old and not super-flat. Not terrible but not flawless either.
-G
