Just do some beefy 8's or 10's in the front doors and don't worry about the back.
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Just do some beefy 8's or 10's in the front doors and don't worry about the back.
I did a pair of 10's in ported enclosures last time around (2001)....
It was pretty good, though I think now that the subwoofer technology has gotten better I'll go with a sealed-box design. Should still be able to get PLENTY of bass with a pair of modern 12's...especially if I aim them at the floor.
EDIT:
Here's the old layout that was in the K5... it was pretty solid, but the bass didn't quite keep up on the highway with all the windnoise and tire howl.
-G
I did a pair of 10's in ported enclosures last time around (2001)....
-G
Is that a MS Visio model of your stereo system? LOL
I'm disappointed, where are the color codes and wire specifications?
That's the block diagram.
The detailed wiring schematic is a different Excel file.
My main intention was to invite a high-level discussion about the stereo plan (component selection, locations, etc). The wiring is the easy part.
-G
I think a better question for you is... What's your goals for the stereo. Are you a basshead, or just want clean/loud, or really into 'competition' quality sound? How much space are you willing to sacrifice?
I've done the whole "SQ" thing already. My 911 had a $20,000 sound system in it....with a laser-flat EQ RTA... Not really interested in that again.
Don't want a "Boom & Sizzle" system either.... The One-Note-Drone gets old in a hurry.
I guess the best term for what I like is a "Rock-and-Roll" system. It's got SOLID low bass, but more importantly it's got an insanely punchy UPPER-BASS. (That was the reason why I was running double mids in the doors with stupid power the first time around).... The thud of the bass drum is important, but the upper harmonics of that drum note are what make it really come alive and give you that sharp punch in the chest..... a rapid double-bass attack has an immediacy that is downright fun to "experience"....it's not just a muddy, vibration with a lot of subwoofer hangover.
On the top end, I used those OD-KD tweeters (which I believe are actually a rebranded ElectroVoice tweeter) because they take a TON of abuse...they play loud without frying voicecoils, and they have a unique ability to play pretty low frequencies (for a tweeter) so you can actually cross-them over directly to the mid-bass drivers in the door (2-way) instead of trying to fit an extra midrange speaker up front somewhere to do a 3-way crossover setup.
From a SQ perpective, it will play deeply and accurately but I have no illusions that my listening environment is going to be anything but "hostile"
So it's got to be able to get up and boogie at high volumes and not lose all the low frequency information when the engine is running and the tires are howling. I had a sub-bass control knob which really helped to bring up that lost music on long highway stretches.From a space perspective, I am going to do the same tweeter-in-the-floor setup as before and the doors are fair game for mids. I'm ditching the glass completely so I can literally seal them up tight and brace the hell out of them to make nice enclosures. For the subs, I don't want to give up much more than 1 - 1.5 cu ft per enclosure. Sealed boxes tend to be smaller than ported ones, so if I can overcome the loss of output (dB) somehow I would definitely prefer sealed.
-G
8" subs shallow mount and 4 of them. Driven within a milliinch of their lives.
Topless you give up alot of bass. I'm sure you know this cause your car acts as an enclosure.
My daughter is currently taking a video of a 2 liter bottle on top of our home sub, Lindsey Sterling makes everything wanna dance
Topless you give up alot of bass. I'm sure you know this cause your car acts as an enclosure.
My daughter is currently taking a video of a 2 liter bottle on top of our home sub, Lindsey Sterling makes everything wanna dance
Sounds like you want some strong midbass's. There's 2 ways to do that w/ the current tech - one is large prosound mids 8's or 10's I've heard both in sealed and ported enclosures in doors and they have good punch in the chest. You'll need a good tweeter to be able to reach down, the 10's esp will start beaming at the top end.
There's also some smaller mid-basses that have a ton of xmax now that do pretty well. One offhand I can think of is a zr800 but I think you need to get them used now.
There's also some smaller mid-basses that have a ton of xmax now that do pretty well. One offhand I can think of is a zr800 but I think you need to get them used now.
Yeah, two ported 10's were OK.... but I'm looking at the whole (cone diameter * XMAX) calculation to compare different combinations to see how much air I can displace with a given setup.
You can't break the laws of physics..... you gotta move air to get bass. You either do it with a lot of cone area, or a lot of excursion.... but in a convertible, it's probably BOTH!!!
-G
Down firing may hurt more than it helps in a convertible setup. Your going to lose alot by bouncing it off the floor. It works great in vans, wagons, etc. But that's because your essentially turning your vehicle into a big bandpass box. The open top will minimize that effect. Sealed is definitely the way you want to go for the type of music your talking. Way punchier and a lot more control. A good sealed 10 now adays the box is TINY. Some of them require as little as .5 cf for sealed. Check out RE audio or if you liked the jls it's tough to beat the newer W3's or W6's. Depending on room under the seats... (I don't have 3 or 4 weeks to go back through your thread and see what it looks like lol) the JL TW5's are a 13" sub that's like 2.75" thin and they fricken ROCK. Equivalent to a normal modern 13" W3. Then all bass has to exit past you to get out the top into the wind and you can get your downfiring pretty easy. They only need about 1cf or less IIRC.
As subs go, PSI and FI both make subs that will get you 30+ mm 1-way xmax in just about any cone size. Hell PSI now has subs that do 70-80mm 2-way xmax and still decent LE.
Thanks Shady,
Yeah I was looking at the 13TW5v2 (thin woofer) vs. the 12W6v3 yesterday.....
They are actually the same price (~$600 ea) but the recommended box size on the TW wasn't all that much smaller (19 x 15 x 7.75") 0.8cu ft vs. the 12W6v3 (15 x 15 x 12") 1.0cu ft.
I was kind of hoping that the TW would be a lot smaller and easier to hide somewhere. It's XMAX is .4333" vs .750" so it gives up quite a bit in terms of air displacement.... though they both have pretty decent -3dB points (~41Hz sealed box)
-G
The W6 would kill the TW for sure. The TW is equal to a W3 in a real world side by side comparison. Listening to them in the dealer anyway. 3" thick vs like 8" could be nice for mounting versatility. Both real expensive. Check sonicelectronix.Com or onlinecarstereo.com. may be a bit Cheaper there. The TW5 was going for $350 at the end of last year on OLCS. As for the traditional sub design, there are a lot of easily comparable subs to the W6 for less money.
OK...... third wheel was a bit more of a struggle than the first two, but it's done:
The centers have all been a REALLY tight fit to the hoops by design. I wanted to make sure that they would be really solid even before I started welding... on this third wheel it was not quite as tight as the first two, so when I got it all dialed-in and laid down the tack welds it "pulled" a little bit more than usual and I ended up with something like 0.040" runout when I spun it. So I cut the spot-welds off on the flange where the runout was... and shifted everything over. It wasn't easy, but instead of unmounting the wheel to weld it.... I twisted myself into a pretzel shape ( a fat pretzel) and was able to get the MIG into the backside of the wheel to re-tack the flange.
The results were good. I ended up at around .018" initially, but after all the heavy welding completed (even using careful sequencing and 180* rotations) it drifted a bit further. The end result was still the best of the three wheels so far.... at only 0.021"
I'm past the half-way point on the wheels now, and feeling good. I wish I could figure out the paint code with 100% certainty, but I'm pretty sure it's either GM WA3967 (aka GM11), or GM WA5111 / GM521 (aka Ditzler 2185)..... there is a GM526 called "Ivory" that might also work. Those paint codes are all in the 1969 -1972 timeframe so they are period correct.
-G
The centers have all been a REALLY tight fit to the hoops by design. I wanted to make sure that they would be really solid even before I started welding... on this third wheel it was not quite as tight as the first two, so when I got it all dialed-in and laid down the tack welds it "pulled" a little bit more than usual and I ended up with something like 0.040" runout when I spun it. So I cut the spot-welds off on the flange where the runout was... and shifted everything over. It wasn't easy, but instead of unmounting the wheel to weld it.... I twisted myself into a pretzel shape ( a fat pretzel) and was able to get the MIG into the backside of the wheel to re-tack the flange.
The results were good. I ended up at around .018" initially, but after all the heavy welding completed (even using careful sequencing and 180* rotations) it drifted a bit further. The end result was still the best of the three wheels so far.... at only 0.021"
I'm past the half-way point on the wheels now, and feeling good. I wish I could figure out the paint code with 100% certainty, but I'm pretty sure it's either GM WA3967 (aka GM11), or GM WA5111 / GM521 (aka Ditzler 2185)..... there is a GM526 called "Ivory" that might also work. Those paint codes are all in the 1969 -1972 timeframe so they are period correct.
-G
It is an off white.
Martin
Martin
How do you air up your tires?
Martin
Martin
So.....maybe the GM526 (Ivory) then....??? I'm looking at paint chips for Chevrolet, but also Chevy Truck.... there are Commercial Color chip cards too but I don't think they apply here.
From a button on the dashboard.
-G
