But then what about the inconsistent heights of the index washers at each location???
-G
Clearly you'll have to counterbore...sheesh!
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Clearly you'll have to counterbore...sheesh!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I was going to mention flat head bolts would make it all flush, but this has gone way past that now. 
8/12ths COMPLETE..!!!!
Getting into a rhythm on these plates....
Four to go!!!
-G
Getting into a rhythm on these plates....
- Disassemble on workbench
- Dress edges of large plates on disc grinder
- Radius sharp inside convoluted edges to match bedfloor profile
- Smooth and round corners of plates
- Clean black oxide coating from square nuts for welding
- Reassemble 4-plate sandwich with square nuts
- Square the square nuts, squarely...
- Apply WeldKleen spray, Weld square nuts
- Disassemble and clean bottom squarenut plate
- Install top plates into bedside loosely, mark perimiter of plate with silver Sharpie
- Install bottom plate loosely, mark perimeter of plate with silver Sharpie
- Remove plates and grind off black primer coating from bedfloor for future welding
- Reinstall upper and lower plates, and thread bolts into new welded bottom nut-plate
- Torque bolts to satisfying "AArrrrghh!!" amount
- Examine misaligned hex bolt heads, and slowly shake head in disgust.
- Repeat for subsequent plate locations.
Four to go!!!
-G
I guess.... just as hard as I can with a standard length ratchet until I make some kind of involuntary sound.
-G
At your advancing age, you may want to reconsider
superbuickguy
1/2 ton status
no two kachunga air-impact spec?
I always used the grunt system vs pirate system. 1 grunt torque or 2 grunt torque...
I was thinking the same thing. The older I get, the lower the torque value of said noise.
I was thinking the same thing. The older I get, the lower the torque value of said noise.
After breaking my elbow last year, it's not all that easy to perform the "clean and jerk" on that bedside when I need access to it's underside.
Trimming 23 pounds of excess weight made a significant difference to my sore arm/ and shoulders.
-G
superbuickguy
1/2 ton status
Maybe you should find yourself an offspring to set the torque values? All you'd need is a wrench and a decibel meter. The louder the whine, the higher the torque value, the less the sore shoulder. Though that does bring up a question - how does trimming fat off a Blazer help with your shoulder?
Take a 150Lb bedfloor......add 75Lbs of extra cageplates to it. Then lift it from one end to raise it from it's horizontal resting position, to a vertical position (to reach the underside bolts)....
It's a lot like a weightlifting "clean and jerk" motion. Arms have to go all the way over my head to stand it upright.
-G
QFT. I've been going through cheap gloves like mad lately, fab projects and yard work, and they wear out and/or don't fit and I have to take them off all the time to do detail work. I love me my Tillman welding gloves, so when you posted these I ordered a set to try 'em out.
These are fantastic. Just got in from an afternoon of concrete/rebar demo with the backhoe, and was able to wear these all the way through, whether yielding the sledge or hustling concrete slabs with rebar poking out or operating the hydraulic controls. Great protection, yet still have dexterity, comfortable, and come in giant-ape size.
They cost three times the what the cheapos do, but I betcha they'll last ten times as long and are better gloves to boot, as it were.-- A
I can't use anything else, I'm glad you like them. Avoid the deer skin ones, as they turn your hands yellow. Ask me how I know hahah
Square the square nuts, squarely...
Say that 3 times quickly.
Say that 3 times quickly.
With that thick of plates, as long as you have a chamfer on the bolt hole for the underhead radius, you could leave out the washers. That would save you at least a 1/16" of bolt head height I bet.
With that thick of plates, as long as you have a chamfer on the bolt hole for the underhead radius, you could leave out the washers. That would save you at least a 1/16" of bolt head height I bet.
True.
The washer is actually more about protecting the paint on cage plates from being bunched-up and peeled away as the bolt heads are torqued-down.... but you're right. 60+ cage washers adds a bunch of extra weight too!!!
-G
superbuickguy
1/2 ton status
sounds like you need to fire your engineer - with that kind of added weight, this thing will be a slug 
I like flanged hex heads, doesn't save you any weight or height but I've always liked the look. Of course after a quick look on McMaster looks like they are about 5x the cost of regular grade 8...True.
The washer is actually more about protecting the paint on cage plates from being bunched-up and peeled away as the bolt heads are torqued-down.... but you're right. 60+ cage washers adds a bunch of extra weight too!!!
-G
