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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
If that's 36" your only going 10" wider than a lot of countertops.

Gonna do tool boxes under the bench?

With the cabinets I hate losing the space above the cabinets. Plus it's hard to clean.

But any of those look real nice.
 
blazinzuk said:
If that's 36" your only going 10" wider than a lot of countertops.

Gonna do tool boxes under the bench?

With the cabinets I hate losing the space above the cabinets. Plus it's hard to clean.

But any of those look real nice.
Click to expand...


Yep is 36” now if I don’t pull the back wall forward at all toward that lip.

Ideally I want a combination of tool storage underneath as well as a seating area so that I can sit at desk height to TIG weld at that counter.

I will probably have to remove all the casters or legs from the boxes to get them down to a normal working height since that step up is basically 3.5” like a normal toe-kick.

-G
 
We have those steps in alot of houses here in PHX, it may be code for some reason. Floods, or gasses..
 
Flood issues. We had to get a variance when I designed my parents house in lake havasu. Garage floor is still sloped at 2%, but matches at the door to the house. Same with the front door and the back patio. Old age mandated it.
 
OK, I think I've got it now..... :thinking:

Push out all the lower cabinets to the edge of the cement lip on the floor, and build-out the wall maybe 6" so that the counter is deep (but not TOO deep) and I can still reach the upper cabinets.

IMG_5161.jpg


Leave the one lower cabinet closest to the door at normal depth so there is still a decent walkthrough into the house and you aren't constantly hitting the corner of that last lower cabinet.


There ends up being a total of 6 lower cabinets (14 feet), which should be more than enough for all my tools (and room to grow!) Due to the location of the breaker panel, there is only room for 5 uppers.
However, the tape line represents the "tall" version of the upper cabinet (36" vs. 22" tall) so there should be TONS of extra overhead space created as well..... and all behind doors to keep the dust out!! :)

IMG_5164.jpg



I'm going to sleep on this design, but it feels like a solid plan to move forward.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
OK, I think I've got it now..... :thinking:

Push out all the lower cabinets to the edge of the cement lip on the floor, and build-out the wall maybe 6" so that the counter is deep (but not TOO deep) and I can still reach the upper cabinets.

IMG_5161.jpg


Leave the one lower cabinet closest to the door at normal depth so there is still a decent walkthrough into the house and you aren't constantly hitting the corner of that last lower cabinet.


There ends up being a total of 6 lower cabinets (14 feet), which should be more than enough for all my tools (and room to grow!) Due to the location of the breaker panel, there is only room for 5 uppers.
However, the tape line represents the "tall" version of the upper cabinet (36" vs. 22" tall) so there should be TONS of extra overhead space created as well..... and all behind doors to keep the dust out!! :)

IMG_5164.jpg



I'm going to sleep on this design, but it feels like a solid plan to move forward.


-G
Click to expand...

I think I would leave out the cabinet closest to the door and just allow that space to be for getting into/out of the house. It also leaves the space in front of the electric panel open for better access if/when you should ever need to access it.
 
you might want to check code as well it may not be legal to have a cabinet below the the breaker panel , there are some definite limitations on how close things can Be to the panel.
 
What if you leave the counter top run all the way to the existing wall, and build a false 6" wall just for the uppers to hang on for your comfort?

Edit:

And you won't have to bump out the existing plugins.
 
yellowK20 said:
you might want to check code as well it may not be legal to have a cabinet below the the breaker panel , there are some definite limitations on how close things can Be to the panel.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing, but all of his inspections should be done before he installs any cabinets so shouldnt matter.
 
As an FYI, I read somewhere the big concrete step may be for fire code. Intended to keep flammable fluids (oil or gas) from getting into the house in the event of a leak. Doesn’t explain why it’s that wide though.

X2 on the breaker panel access. Don’t want to be tempted to pile stuff in front of it on the countertop and block access if you need it in an emergency.
 
So a couple of explanations to address the good questions you guys are asking:

The cabinet under the breaker panel is for the shop stereo and other small electronics like that (iPod), Router, etc). Kind of nice to have it close to the door so I can shut it off on my way in the house for the night, or first thing in the morning. The worktop of that cabinet would be a great place to throw car keys, new parts boxes from UPS or Amazon...and misc stuff like that. I suppose I could put that one on casters so that it would't violate "code", would just need to make sure the wires going into the cabinet were long enough that it could be rolled out of the way for panel access / service.

There is a motivation to build-out that common wall to help isolate the garage noises from the house. Having 2 freestanding walls (with a small air gap between them) is just about the best possible way to soundproof one area from another. Adding some Roxul in those cavities will help to deaden the noise even further. :waytogo: The electrical on that wall is mostly dead outlets that were disconnected when wires had to be re-routed prior to sprayfoam and overhead lighting phases... so I'm basically starting from scratch and won't really be losing any time whether I move the wall out several inches or not.

I'm still researching the cabinetry options. Even the "tall" upper cabinets leave a lot of unused space near the ceiling, but overall I feel like I'm gaining a TON of great enclosed storage that I've never had before which is pretty exciting. Cost-wise, even the "cheap" cabinets will be expensive when you start buying 5 or 6 of each and then add accessories like lighting, benchtop surfaces, etc.



-G
 
Nevermind the trainwreck

30” deep 42” tall

Shelf over the bench is 6”
This setup works pretty good for a guy 5’9”D82529CB-BCE0-4A27-99C3-EC4EE1287BB3.jpeg
 
In my old shop my bench was 24" wide. a LOT of the time it felt way too narrow. I eventually added a 30" section but that sometimes felt narrow as well. I'd go as wide as you can and as @NorCal69 suggested, get a step stool.
 
Bent77 said:
Nevermind the trainwreck

30” deep 42” tall

Shelf over the bench is 6”
This setup works pretty good for a guy 5’9”View attachment 297482
Click to expand...

ashman said:
In my old shop my bench was 24" wide. a LOT of the time it felt way too narrow. I eventually added a 30" section but that sometimes felt narrow as well. I'd go as wide as you can and as @NorCal69 suggested, get a step stool.
Click to expand...

Current “Blue Tape Design” is a workbench that’s 30” deep and 140” long.....

I’ll think about the final height of the upper cabinets some more but if I can’t reach without a stool they won’t get used much and that’s a pretty big waste of premium wall space.

-G
 
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