Did you keep the compressor? It looks like a York mount. I would put it back on and use it for an on board air compressor.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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'72 So ugly its pretty
- Thread starter Randy'72
- Start date
Yeah it wasn't a bad deal at all and she runs and drives good the engine is strong minus when she first starts up not happy until she is warmed up. The compressor was there but was seized and rusted to no end so I opted to just go with a new one eventually to put on board air. Is LMCtruck the best place to go for replacement body parts I looked through it and it seems they have just about everything at reasonable prices which is extremely easier than going through a junk yard and digging stuff out.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Pretty sure most on here will say avoid them, too much massaging needed and thin metal. Their parts are more of a pain than they are helpful. Read Norcal69's thread for some great info. Also, chiefbrody has done tons of body work, though not a first gen is super good to read http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283048
I've read good things about gmcpauls.com iirc. Bottom line, I have not done panels but they have and if you can put some time into going through their threads you may get exactly the info you need, and if not they are really helpful if u reach out.
-jacob
I've read good things about gmcpauls.com iirc. Bottom line, I have not done panels but they have and if you can put some time into going through their threads you may get exactly the info you need, and if not they are really helpful if u reach out.
-jacob
Nope and Nope.
LMC has a place behind my garage where all of there crap panels still lie.. Junk yard parts are the best for doors and fenders and whatever. They fit once and will prolly fit again..
Before I started mine, there were more companies that sold good (still gunna have to tweak stuff) panels. Tri-pro and Christian Classics or something like that. Look up Wes at Classic Heartbeat and GMCPAULS. Trust me there is a difference between most of the stuff that they sell VS. LMC.
Do you need doors or fenders? I have some awesome LMC's that don't fit that I'll sell ya cheap..
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
My build thread started the same way, but at that time you had to have 15 posts before you could post pics...
Gotta love the 1st gens... Nice rig...
Gotta love the 1st gens... Nice rig...
Ok thats really good to know about the LMCtruck website. I knew that it was to good to be true that all of the parts were so cheap. I looked through the GMCpaul and it seems that he has parts that are more realistic in there price and he specifically calls out the sheet metal thickness which is vital in knowing you are getting good pieces parts. As for the first gen yeah I was pretty pumped to be able to come across one of these. I will have to go to the other websites that you guys have given me, again thank you for your help.
So question I'm pretty good with mechanical things but electricity is def my weak spot. My truck while running will sometimes die. If I muck with the wires on the battery it comes back but they are very warm. Is it my voltage regulated from the alternator or just the battery cable. It is the positive cable that brings it back to life and not the negative so I know my grounds are good. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Um, hot is too much resistance.
Stock, side post battery cables? Probably the positive cable rotted out . They corrode from the inside, and you cant' see it until you cut into them. If it were me, i'd double check connections at battery, and then replace the cables.
If the issue continues, move on to regulator/alternator.
When working on a 40+ year old truck dont assume that anything on the truck is good.... Assume that it's probably all bad. 
Electrically, ground cables get corroded even though they look normal. The attachment points to the frame and engine block need to be shiny metal for a good connection.
Be suspicious of everything... Start with the basics and work your way to more esoteric troubleshooting if the simple stuff doesn't resolve it.
-G
Electrically, ground cables get corroded even though they look normal. The attachment points to the frame and engine block need to be shiny metal for a good connection.
Be suspicious of everything... Start with the basics and work your way to more esoteric troubleshooting if the simple stuff doesn't resolve it.
-G
Ok sounds like a good plan of attack. I do have to keep reminding myself that it's been exposed to god knows what over the past 40 years and in the end everything should be replaced and cleaned to know it works. I am gonna start digging into it today and will let you know how all things end up turning out.
Found a broken stud last week so this weekends project was to tear off the upper and drill out the broken bolt. Did a pretty good job drilling out the stud but got a little to close to the threads if you ask me.
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
The coolant in here is from when I took off the head not a leak
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
A well deserved beer for the both of us.
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
The coolant in here is from when I took off the head not a leak
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
A well deserved beer for the both of us.
Untitled by Randy'72, on Flickr
nice. gotta share your beer with your best friend. it's a rule.
Yeah my little buddy was awesome during it, he just layer there in the sun and watched me work, not sure why he deserved the beer, but hey he always does I guess.
