CK5
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73 K20....crossmember time

I've got a sweet one from snap on that goes in an air hammer and has a handle you turn while lightly hammering at it. Works great if you have room to get the whole setup in there.

I just used a friends the other day. If I used one more I'd be all over buying one after that
 
It was pretty locked in there. I was ready for drilling it out and putting a helicoil in but thought I'd try that ghetto setup on low.

This impact gun is weak by my definition. I have the compressor to back it up but it damn sure is not no 800ftlbs gun.

It won't do the damn cv nut on my civic.
 
Most will argue you don't need those rotor screws. I always break those axle nuts loose with my 1" drive socket and breaker bar.

Interesting. I mean it's hubcentric. I think I'll just snag some socket heads and just snug them down lightly.

Finally got the nut off. I see guys are doing it with that stupid hf 1 inch drive electric impact. Yet another tool I need. The 4 foot breaker bar plus me bouncing got it off. Apparently you have to beat the bottom ballpoint out to get the cv out....I'm thinking it would be stupid not to put a new one in if possible. It's probably original.
 
Sigh. I mostly worked on the dumbass beater car tonight. I hate not working on my truck. My thinking is always that if I work a few hours on the truck it'll be down a few hours earlier in the end...probably a little truth to that.

I cleaned the cab up more for the roll cage install. I guess that's some forward progress.

School starts in 6 weeks so it needs to be running and close to moving under its own power by then.
 
Remove the strut fork from the strut and lower control arm if you haven't already. Then remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (use an impact). The tricky part is popping the ball joint lose from the lower control arm. I have a ball joint pickle fork that I've used specifically for this. You wedge it on one side of the ball joint and hit it with the BFH. Once that's loose you can wedge a screwdriver or pry bar between the trans and CV and pop them out of the trans.

And those rotor screws are available at vatozone on the help rack
 
Remove the strut fork from the strut and lower control arm if you haven't already. Then remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (use an impact). The tricky part is popping the ball joint lose from the lower control arm. I have a ball joint pickle fork that I've used specifically for this. You wedge it on one side of the ball joint and hit it with the BFH. Once that's loose you can wedge a screwdriver or pry bar between the trans and CV and pop them out of the trans.

And those rotor screws are available at vatozone on the help rack

OK cool thanks! That's pretty much how Eric the car guy said to do it on YouTube. I got the pickle fork too so that should be no problem. Is that lower ballpoint replaceable?

Kill it with Fire

Buy another Chevy

Yeah I'm ready to light myself on fire.

I damn near went and bought a 63 falcon last week. It was 302 swapped and a 4 door. Real clean and straight. 2 grand.
 
OK cool thanks! That's pretty much how Eric the car guy said to do it on YouTube. I got the pickle fork too so that should be no problem. Is that lower ballpoint replaceable?

Just don't put the fork around the ball joint and rip that damn boot. Slide one fork on the outside of the BJ between the knuckle and lower control arm and it will wedge itself. BFH and it should pop loose. Those lower BJ's don't wear out easily. Yes they are replaceable but don't go there unless you have to because that's a MAW of upper BJ's, tie rods and bearings since the the knuckles are off.
 
Just don't put the fork around the ball joint and rip that damn boot. Slide one fork on the outside of the BJ between the knuckle and lower control arm and it will wedge itself. BFH and it should pop loose. Those lower BJ's don't wear out easily. Yes they are replaceable but don't go there unless you have to because that's a MAW of upper BJ's, tie rods and bearings since the the knuckles are off.

Awesome thanks!

Hey on the 100 micron filter for fitech...not sure if you have that yet...it says its 10an fittings, which means id have to buy the adapter fittings. Mayhe theyre all like that...gonna check. Seems a little pricey for a damn filter thats not rebuildable.

I swooped my dads 30 micron filter though lol.
 
What 100 micron filter? I thought we needed to run the in tank sock and then a 30? Maybe I didn't read it right.
 

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