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73 K20....crossmember time

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wetoolowdingbangow said:
:sign17: Other than clean cars, nature and a few good cities its pretty rough. Gun laws are horrible, taxes are outrageous (i think my income tax is about 28% because im single with no kids), gas prices are rape, no shortage of violence and so on. Everyone thinks california is where its at... its not! My 3 bedroom home is cheaper per month than a single bedroom apartment which fetches around $1800 month. Im not sure im long for california...
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Don't forget the horrible traffic and drugs. I'm directly due east of you and am in a pretty rural area overall, but we have to keep a tight lid on everything around here because thieves are always around and watching. But, it is better over here for the most part. I can't imagine trying to live in the Bay or Socal.
 
rjfguitar said:
Don't forget the horrible traffic and drugs. I'm directly due east of you and am in a pretty rural area overall, but we have to keep a tight lid on everything around here because thieves are always around and watching. But, it is better over here for the most part. I can't imagine trying to live in the Bay or Socal.
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Yeah the traffic is the ****s around here. I have to take hwy 80 to work which is always a mess. I snagged a spot that's secluded...atleast for the bay area. I've been broken into before and I never want to experience that again so I moved to an "out of the way" place. After living in the bay area my whole life, I dont leave home without my ruger. :pimp:
 
Well i had plans to finish the dana 60 this weekend but things didnt pan out. I did finish machining the hubs and i made some pucks to insure concentricity for my last finish cut. After i got the OD of the hubs done i took a minimal cut (.030") to even out the fingers of the hub where the disc and new wms will go. I also turned the new wms discs this week in my spare time which came out pretty good but there was one major problem i found when i started welding. I had an epiphany... I didnt think about the mating surface of the wheel. The backside of the rim is roughly 8.5" in diameter and my flanges were smaller by an inch. I was so pissed off i couldn't see straight. I literally had to take a break from it because i poured a few hours into those stupid flanges and now there useless. Needless to say i didnt get much done other then finishing the machining of the hub, taking more measurements and gathering more material. Now that ive calmed myself a bit i am lucky i came up on the material for free so its not a huge loss, just time. I went out to Alco today and got some 5/8"x12"x36" mild steel for $50 bucks which was a good deal. So that means i start my wms flanges over again this week but it will work out this time, just hit a snag and thankfully i didnt completely weld them up yet!

Pucks for centering hub:





Taking the finish cut:



Finished machining of the hubs:



I had to grind a tiny bit on the god awful factory welds:



Cleaned hubs in gas:





Turning of the WMS flanges:





Epiphany:




So thats about it for this weekend. I really thought i would have this mofo on its tires this weekend and i would have but i hit that snag. Gotta do it right though... that way i dont have to think about it when im rolling down the freeway. So ill be starting my new flanges tomorrow. Updates to come.
 
Yeah I'm sure they are. hell there's two within 50 miles of eachother and there both about as different as can be. I usually use onlinemetals.com for my metal purchases but I need it yesterday so I didn't want to wait.
 
wheel mount surface- take 2

Well im almost finished with 1 of the wms flanges i had to remake. More beef! Still need to chamfer, open up the ID take a finish cut on the OD.

 
I assume the screws are just in there for assembly purposes?

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Martin
 
82355 said:
I assume the screws are just in there for assembly purposes?

20150118_122350.jpg


Martin
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Yes exactly! Just trying to get it somewhat aligned and flush before the welding. i have a regrind endmill to bore the threaded hole out to accept 14 bolt dually studs. Billavista calls out some ford studs but the splines are just not long enough. They would end up in the slip fit hole of the disc brake which does nothing for me and may lead to spinning studs which is a deep hatred of mine. Really hope to get atleast one put togethor this weekend and do some ford shock towers. i need a waterjet...
 
So im using the leaf springs that are already on my truck which are some 4 inch lift springs and I intend to do a 52" swap in the future but im wondering if my stock driveshaft will be long enough if I have 14 inch travel shocks? im also wondering if I need to run limit straps? Anyone have experience with this? It looks like my driveshaft will be fine but 52s with ez inches might put me over the edge.:confused:
 
you'll likely need a longer slip in the front shaft with 52's regardless if the length is correct or not.
 
skunked said:
you'll likely need a longer slip in the front shaft with 52's regardless if the length is correct or not.
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Ok so in other words it may fit but when extended it wont be long enough. Got it thanks. I wonder if there's something i cant steal a longer yoke off of in a junkyard?
 
Well im finished with 1 of the flanges and im halfway throught the second. I went thicker on these flanges and so far im pretty happy with them. By the time i took my clean up cuts they were .681" thick to be exact as opposed to the .5" ones a previously made. This gives me a better opportunity to lay a better weld to the hub as the older flanges got thin due to chamfer for the old hub weld.

Note: holes need to be drilled all the way out still. I was able to just do a recessed cut to incorporate the old hub weld due to the plate being thicker.





blue chips are the best chips! :woot:



I started my f-250 shock towers this past weekend, mostly just grinding lovely rivets off. I see a lot of people put the towers on then cut off the excess after there on. Ill be doing it the other way around since ive seen where most people cut them. Should be pretty simple...throw them in the drop saw then ill mill an angle on the end just to make them more zen i guess. Ill post pics soon of my finished towers.

This little guy wanted to fight for an hour!

 
Ok i finally got the hubs done! What an experience. Once i welded them up i threw them on the lathe to check how flat the mounting surface was and damn were they flat!



Here are the finished rings!




Once i confirmed flatness i started drilling for my studs. Ill be using dually 14 bolt studs which will have splines long enough to engage both the disc and the hub...which i may have mentioned before. I set up the mill and got the bolt pattern parallel, did some quick calcs and started drilling. I followed the drilled holes up with a regrind end mill for a good press fit.






Started mocking up my shock towers, which look pretty good but i have some trimming to do. Trying to figure out the best way to trip my inner fenders for the shocks.



Got this guy on here last night. I torqued up to 90 ftlbs last night and ill work my way up to 110 tonight. It looks good so far!



Picked this up for $30. Im pretty sure its from ballistic fab...looks stout.



After a few weeks of pulling teeth on Craigslist for a steering box i finally gave up. Typical oily junk that they want more than new price. So i checked rockauto for c10 boxes and it was about $140 without a core. then i had an idea to check c20's for the hell of it and i found a private label box witha warranty for $50 no core! I went for it and its the same as cardone...just missing a sticker basically.

 
Good deal on the steering box! And that was a ton of work on those hubs. I think unless it was someone like you who obviously has access to the equipment, it would probably be best to just buy new srw hubs. But they sure turned out nice for you! No pun intended...
 
y5mgisi said:
Good deal on the steering box! And that was a ton of work on those hubs. I think unless it was someone like you who obviously has access to the equipment, it would probably be best to just buy new srw hubs. But they sure turned out nice for you! No pun intended...
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Yeah man! Thanks it was definitely borderline worth it on the hubs. After screwing up the first time i really beat myself up over not just buying the hubs but it was a challenge and i succeeded. Ive also been contemplating buying 40" tires so it all adds up as far as my budget goes. Should be back on its own weight this weekend than i have to fill the brake fluid and steering fluid and do some road tests. Updates coming soon!
 
Well ive got the hubs on, painted and they look great. Im about half way done putting my new steering box on and mocking up the steering a bit to get an idea of how things should be. I also got my es9000 shocks on the front which should be a major improvement.



Chevy orange ftw!



Cut off the old steering arm because it was interfering with the shock body.



Looks like the ORD crossover bar is plenty long. I was a little worried since im mix-matching parts!




Im hoping maybe someone can help me with some brake line stuff...i have the extended lines from ORD. Im not sure what i should do with the circlip here. The fitting that mounts on the frame bracket doesn't go through so theres nothing to hold with the retaining clip they give you. Does the mount hole need to be opened up?



Found a 40" spare that has a ton of tread on it and the guy even gave me one with a pinhole for free. The plan is to buy 4 new 40s soon!

 
ok no one jump! Turns out the brakelines have jam nuts and the circlip doesn't do anything. Should have this thing driving by the weekend! Hollister hills trip is in order soon...
 
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