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73 K20....crossmember time

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skunked said:
yes 2 shims like this otherwise your spring plate isn't perpendicular to the studs.
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Oh man now i feel like a dummy. I definitely only have 1 shim in there. to hell with the shims i say!

Im tearing this thing apart tonight. What do you think about zero rates on the rear end? i still have a slip yoke and its over 3-4 inches engaged so moving an inch back shouldn't hurt?
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Oh man now i feel like a dummy. I definitely only have 1 shim in there. to hell with the shims i say!

Im tearing this thing apart tonight. What do you think about zero rates on the rear end? i still have a slip yoke and its over 3-4 inches engaged so moving an inch back shouldn't hurt?
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live and learn :D

and if those are aluminum shims you definitely don't want those in there. Several different lift kit springs come with the AL style. Make sure you check the castor angle with the truck on the rubber, HF sells a cheapo magnetic one that works well for this.

Not sure about the slip yoke question, I've only had fixed yokes. Why move the axle back? Is it not centered in the wheel arch?
 
skunked said:
live and learn :D

and if those are aluminum shims you definitely don't want those in there. Several different lift kit springs come with the AL style. Make sure you check the castor angle with the truck on the rubber, HF sells a cheapo magnetic one that works well for this.

Not sure about the slip yoke question, I've only had fixed yokes. Why move the axle back? Is it not centered in the wheel arch?
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Yeah there aluminum I'll donate those to the garbage.

Ok I was just worried it may not be level after the zero rates go in the front.
 
Well i got it back on jack stands last night and tried to get the driver side kingpin cap to come off and its on there solid. Soaked in wd40 last night and used a bfh but still nothing. Im going to get a bigger bfh today and try some heat too, maybe that will do the trick. If not i was thinking of cutting a small recess in the cap to pry off of...
 
wd40 won't do much. You need to use PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.

Did you check the castor? Those shims may be your issue.....
 
skunked said:
wd40 won't do much. You need to use PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.

Did you check the castor? Those shims may be your issue.....
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Yeah it was all i had. I just got some Kroil which works wonders so ill try that.

Not yet but i can tell it doesn't look right off the bat. trying to figure out how to measure it. Race cars use a sweeping method but i think everyone is just measuring the angle based off the floor being 0?
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Yeah it was all i had. I just got some Kroil which works wonders so ill try that.

Not yet but i can tell it doesn't look right off the bat. trying to figure out how to measure it. Race cars use a sweeping method but i think everyone is just measuring the angle based off the floor being 0?
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My garage is on a slight slope so I zeroed out the gauge on that and put the gauge on the steering arm. The truck should be on the ground and on the rubber too.
 
skunked said:
My garage is on a slight slope so I zeroed out the gauge on that and put the gauge on the steering arm. The truck should be on the ground and on the rubber too.
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Ok thanks! i have a super accurate digital gauge for machining that ill use. Are you in the negative 6-8 degree range?
 
Sounds good! One other problem i noticed last night is im having alot of front brake drag. Its harder than it should be to turn the hub. I just bled the brakes so maybe theyll loosen up with road time?
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Sounds good! One other problem i noticed last night is im having alot of front brake drag. Its harder than it should be to turn the hub. I just bled the brakes so maybe theyll loosen up with road time?
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Are those the calipers that came with the axle? You may have a piston hung up. Maybe try compressing the piston in that caliper and see if that solves it.
 
skunked said:
Are those the calipers that came with the axle? You may have a piston hung up. Maybe try compressing the piston in that caliper and see if that solves it.
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Yeah there original so maybe they need to be compressed a few times :dunno:

I think its worth trying. I guess there no real way to lube the piston other than greasing mating surfaces, which i did.
 
Well good news is the brakes let up. There probably just sticky from not working for a few years. I can now spin the hub and it goes for a second or more without stopping.

Im still struggling with the kingpin cover still though. I used kroil this time and still no movement. Upon looking at thenstuds I believe that there fused to the cover. theres quite a bit of rust and I cant get anything between them. So out with the studs, which of course dont want to come out. I tried the double nut thing and it didnt budge, maybe I should try a stud extractor?
 
Im curious, what would a stud extractor do that double nutting doesnt do? I would be inclined to weld a nut onto the stud and try heating the knuckle around where the stud goes through the cap.
 
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