CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

73 K20....crossmember time

56's for the rear right?

Where's the 14B FF at? Still acquiring all the brakes and miss stuff to finish that off?
 
56's for the rear right?

Where's the 14B FF at? Still acquiring all the brakes and miss stuff to finish that off?


Yeah 56s for the rear.

Its sitting in the garage staring at my k5 burnout

Yeah im going to roll into vatozone tomorrow and get the calipers and brake pads. Then i need to figure out what im doing for a brake line on the axle. I have a extended drop down line for the rear already but i need something from the T out to the calipers.

Im just waiting for:
brake lines
shackles
grease-able bolts
spring pads
shocks
shock mounts for axle and some sort of bar to inboard

I think thats it as far as parts go. Im hoping its a weekend job. The hardest part of this is that i need to make a pinion angle change, which i have new spring perches i just need to burn them on.

I guess the right way to do that is with the truck on the ground, ubolts semi tight and a car jack under the axle front to tilt it up then weld?
 
on the tires or jack stands under the axle, whatever is easier for you.

No CV on the rear drive shaft so I assume your going parallel with the T-case output and rear axle yoke?
 
on the tires or jack stands under the axle, whatever is easier for you.

No CV on the rear drive shaft so I assume your going parallel with the T-case output and rear axle yoke?


Yeah i never thought about the jack stand idea...

Right it'll have to be parallel with the t-case. Shouldnt be too hard. How long did it take you to swap your 14bolt in? Im already running a 1350 ujoint...
 
Yeah i never thought about the jack stand idea...

Right it'll have to be parallel with the t-case. Shouldnt be too hard. How long did it take you to swap your 14bolt in? Im already running a 1350 ujoint...

less than an hour and it was bled and back on the tires.
 
less than an hour and it was bled and back on the tires.


Thats what i like to hear!! :bow:

Did you use the k20 front calipers?

Im hoping mine goes that smooth. Im still debating if i should add zero rates to the rear. It may have rake if i have it in the front and not the rear.
 
Thats what i like to hear!! :bow:

Did you use the k20 front calipers?

Im hoping mine goes that smooth. Im still debating if i should add zero rates to the rear. It may have rake if i have it in the front and not the rear.

no I'm on drums. It was a simple 10 bolt to 14bb FF swap. I didn't change anything on the suspension. Just the 4 U bolts, 4 driveshaft bolts and the one brake line and I was back in business.I had just installed the 10 bolt so the hardware came off easy, no rust or other complications.

You'll likely need the zero rates......
 
no I'm on drums. It was a simple 10 bolt to 14bb FF swap. I didn't change anything on the suspension. Just the 4 U bolts, 4 driveshaft bolts and the one brake line and I was back in business.I had just installed the 10 bolt so the hardware came off easy, no rust or other complications.

You'll likely need the zero rates......


Ok sounds pretty easy. I have the disc brake brackets already...my 14 didnt come with brakes so why not do discs!

I think its a good idea to get the zero rates too!
 
:haha: I think only our fellow Californians are going to get that one.

I have absolutely nothing to add. Just that I am keeping up with your build since you are a local guy not far away.:thumb:

Hahaha yes!

Thats perfectly fine with me! Ive been lurking on yours as well, in fact i found a picture of yours somewhere on here searching on google. Its a beauty!
 
Hahaha yes!

Thats perfectly fine with me! Ive been lurking on yours as well, in fact i found a picture of yours somewhere on here searching on google. Its a beauty!
Do any kind of search for "weld wheels" and holy cow, a bunch of pictures of my K5 and K30 come up on images.:doah:
 
:haha:

I grew up in the South Bay Area and understand that terminology all too well.

haha to make it even one step worse, autozone just released a new commercial of to hispanic guys working on a car, then from their new found confidence in what they can achieve they turn into luchadors.

WTF? :haha:
 
So im thinking i want to inboard my shocks some...

Yes i know the dampening wont be as good but this thing rides like a buckboard anyways.

I can definitely make my own inboard bar between the frame but im trying to figure out what people are doing for exhaust. Ive seen many people who are just dumping the exhaust before the axle but id like to not fall asleep at the wheel.

Any ideas?

I saw one guy direct his outside the rear part of the frame...
 
So im thinking i want to inboard my shocks some...

Yes i know the dampening wont be as good but this thing rides like a buckboard anyways.

I can definitely make my own inboard bar between the frame but im trying to figure out what people are doing for exhaust. Ive seen many people who are just dumping the exhaust before the axle but id like to not fall asleep at the wheel.

Any ideas?

I saw one guy direct his outside the rear part of the frame...

When I had inboarded shocks, I had the local muffler shop bend up a set of duals inside the frame rail. They go over the axle, cleared the shocks, and then go outside the frame at the gas tank, exiting behind the rear wheels. It's kinda hard to take good pix, but one of these days if you meet the rig you can crawl under and see.

As for the loss of dampening, you can test the ride by just removing your rear shocks. IME inboarding at 45+* has the same effect, i.e. none :D

-- A
 
and remember those 56's are going to ride better than the 52's you have now.
 
When I had inboarded shocks, I had the local muffler shop bend up a set of duals inside the frame rail. They go over the axle, cleared the shocks, and then go outside the frame at the gas tank, exiting behind the rear wheels. It's kinda hard to take good pix, but one of these days if you meet the rig you can crawl under and see.

As for the loss of dampening, you can test the ride by just removing your rear shocks. IME inboarding at 45+* has the same effect, i.e. none :D

-- A

Yeah i think thats a good way to go. Ill have to look how much room i have to make the sweep over to the passenger side from the drivers side. Will do!

The ranchos that it came with are blown so i can only improve from what i have. Flex is more important than ride lol :haha:




and remember those 56's are going to ride better than the 52's you have now.


Yeah thats what i figure especially since the 52s are some hard ass lift springs. I just want to pitch the shocks in a bit, not too much.
 
Top Bottom