'73 - "Malik" 1 Ton K5 Continuation Build

[ahighfivetolife]

I'm sure this rig looks familiar to a few of you:

I'm coming from the Jeep world to hang out with you fullsize guys. I had been wheeling and building a 1 ton '94 YJ for about 6 years. Stretched the wheelbase, swapped in a Dana 60, 14 Bolt, and was getting ready for a tbi350/th350/np203/205.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qws3aJl8ObM&feature=share&list=UUChRPyGv0HbFcA_OzGih0bg

I finally got tired of swapping Chevy parts into it and I though to myself, "Why don't I just buy a 1 ton Chevy and just make it smaller?". Turns out no one else thought that it was a good idea. I pushed forward anyways and stumbled upon this thing on Pirate4x4 for $3500.

Somehow we decided on $2500 and all I had to do was drive out to California to pick it up. While I was out there I grabbed some 42" Super Swamper TSL's on some fancy wheels for $1200. I must say it looked pretty pathetic on some 34" rollers when I first saw it.

 

[ahighfivetolife]

The Mission:

I'm in no way a master fabricator or expert welder, which is good because my overall goal is to keep this rig simple, capable, and wheelable. I don't want it to be sitting on the sidelines getting wrenched on. I'm hoping to get it out ASAP and my goal for 2013 is to make it to the Blazer Bash in September being able to hit some of the harder trails. In the meantime I'll document progress on here. I know I can definitely use input from you guys!

Once I picked it up I was waiting to get it into the shop for gears, spools, and install which is one thing I didn't want to mess with. Especially since the shop owner only charged me $450 for the work. Unfortunately, I deployed to Kuwait/Afghanistan the day after it was done. I'm still deployed but should return in a few weeks. Before I dropped it off at the shop I did some engine maintenance oil change, fluid flushes, and only drove it around for about an hour plus dropping it off. So I really haven't messed with it all that much.

The Plan:
Current Specs vs. (Desired Specs):

Crate 350 (Got Propane Kit)
TH350 (Cooler with electric fan)
NP203 Twin Sticked (Dana 300 Doubler, eventually 4:1 and TS for the Dana 300)
14 Bolt/5.38/Spool (Diff Cover, Pinion Guard, + Yoke/U-joint, Disc Brakes)
Dana 60/5.38/Spool (Diff Cover, + Yoke/U-joint, 35spl outers, Drive Flanges, Air Locker)
42x15-16.5 SS TSL (Grooved)
Fancy Wheels (Black Steelies, DIYbeadlocks)
56" Rear Springs
Homebrew Shackle Flip (DIY4X Shackle Flip)
52" Front Springs (56"?)
Hydro Assist
Crossover
Full Cage (Re-work)

The List:

Obviously it's wheelable as is, but there's still some stuff that needs to be done to take some worries away.

1. Homemade front driveshaft. The current one is too short and is going to slip out with the amount of flex this thing is getting.
2. Diff Covers. Definitely want to get some extra protection for both ends.
3. Wheel/Beadlocks. These 16.5 wheels suck at holding the tire on without them, so until this happens I probably wont air down at all. Which sucks.
4. Shocks. Shocks on all sides are too short and dead. I plan on doing shock hoops up front and inboarding the rears. Both with Rancho 9012's unless I find a better deal on equal or greater shocks.

Seems pretty simple right? After that I'll wheel it like hell and figure where to go from there. I don't mind posting what I paid for each item and overall cost, if anyone thinks that will be helpful I'll continue to do it. The gears, spools, and install kits were $950 shipped, plus $450 for the install. So far I'm in $5100. I think that's a pretty fair deal for what I've got so far.

 

[K85 Octane]

nice, funny how you guys switched rigs

what ended up being your WB on the jeep? Also, do you still have it?

 

[ahighfivetolife]

nice, funny how you guys switched rigs

what ended up being your WB on the jeep? Also, do you still have it?

I know, right? I found the original build thread for this thing and see that he switched to a YJ.

I don't have it anymore. It was stretched 7" in the rear and 2" in the front, so about 102".

 

[magik235]

I have always liked your ride.

 

[1970worthog]

Sub'd

Looking forward to the progression

 

[K85 Octane]

Sub'd

Looking forward to the progression

yep, wondering what the Jeep fan is going to do

 

[ahighfivetolife]

My first order of business is building a new front driveshaft. I'm going to do it the easiest way I can think of, pretty much what this guy here did:

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=14915.0

I plan on using the same size tubing (1/4"). I want to use a 1410 yoke at the axle, and a 1350 at the tcase. do you guys think a stock np203 will hold up to the abuse? If there's going to be a failure I want it to be in the driveshaft and not inside the tcase.

71-79 TH350's had the 27 spline input shafts and 32 output's. anyone see any issues with this?

http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/Tcase_NP203.htm

 

[78SWB]

I really like this Blazer. Ill be watching

 

[Deuling]

I'm glad it's being brought back here. One of my favorites

 

[82355]

I don't know that you want that big heavy driveshaft running all the time.

Martin

 

[1970worthog]

I cant remember but ithink this one has the part time kit in it?

 

[ahighfivetolife]

I don't know that you want that big heavy driveshaft running all the time.

Martin

Why do you think that would be a problem?

I cant remember but ithink this one has the part time kit in it?

This is the fulltime version but it's twinsticked. And by that I don't mean it can seperate front from rear hi/lo, but 2wd from 4wd hi/lo. I'm not sure if that's the kit you're talking about. I had some issues with putting it into 2wd hi last time I messed with it. My plan is to just unlock the hubs and keep it in 4wd hi when needed. The Tcase will spin the front driveshaft which should be fine because it won't be turning the outers.

I've read that when people with the fulltime 203 disconnect their driveshafts for this reason (and sometimes with part time kit) the case needs that front output to be turning or it will start to make noise and eventually destroy itself.

3rd paragraph:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/howto/47538/

 

[1970worthog]

I had a twin sticked/part time in my 203 in my '70 but if you have 2wd anything (hi/low) then it sounds like it has the part time kit inside it.
If it didnt then you would just have the option for 4wd hi/low and nuetral.

Another option you can do is find a 205 of a th350 and bolt that up. It should be a bolt on but i think driveline mods may be inorder.

 

[y5mgisi]

Looks like it will be fun! You are one of few that has gone UP in rig size!

 

[blazinzuk]

The 203 is a very strong case. I swear the dang chain weighs 15 lbs just by itself.

You have a part time kit. If you were still full time and you put it in 2 wd you would not move as the 203 has a differential in it. The part time kit removes it.

The 203 linkage ( even twin sticked) is finicky so make sure you squirt some thing down there every now and again to clean it.

I don't remember how Chris did the twin stick but it takes most of the shifter problems away.

The reason you don't want a heavy driveshaft is because it wears out pinion bearings and output bearings on the t case. In a part time truck no biggie.

Don't do the 300 doubler. Its just too small for a full size. I have seen upgraded 300 ( with the high dollar ouputs) snap em with a stock 6 cylinder and big tires.

You oughta be able to trade the 300 if you already have it for the correct 205 or sell the 300 and buy a 205.

Also I ran 42s with about 10 lbs of air in them all the time with non beadlocked wheels on a 73 blazer nonetheless. Never popped a bead, be aware and carry lighter fluid.

They come of easier than other sizes for sure but it also means they are super easy to reseat. But by no means should you run street pressure wheeling.

 

[ahighfivetolife]

I had a twin sticked/part time in my 203 in my '70 but if you have 2wd anything (hi/low) then it sounds like it has the part time kit inside it.
If it didnt then you would just have the option for 4wd hi/low and nuetral.

Another option you can do is find a 205 of a th350 and bolt that up. It should be a bolt on but i think driveline mods may be inorder.

These are the shifting patterns that the case has (I'm seeing the top one):

When I put the left stick forward and the right stick aft (trying to get 2 Hi) it wouldn't move. Same thing with it in 2 lo. It's a little confusing why someone would twin stick and have the top layout... kind of pointless?

Looks like it will be fun! You are one of few that has gone UP in rig size!

I'm pretty excited to get home and start building on to it! I'm a little curious about how it will wheel. I've never wheeled anything this size and weight before. Excited though.

The 203 is a very strong case. I swear the dang chain weighs 15 lbs just by itself.

That's what I've read. In the Jeep world the Dana 300 is loved and considered a stout case. I haven't read very much about them failing, but I do understand that the 203/205 is stronger.

You have a part time kit. If you were still full time and you put it in 2 wd you would not move as the 203 has a differential in it. The part time kit removes it.

The 203 linkage ( even twin sticked) is finicky so make sure you squirt some thing down there every now and again to clean it.

I don't remember how Chris did the twin stick but it takes most of the shifter problems away.

This is what I'm experiencing. Maybe you're right and I just need to tear it up and examine it. Maybe it just needs some cleaning/lubing.

The reason you don't want a heavy driveshaft is because it wears out pinion bearings and output bearings on the t case. In a part time truck no biggie.

that's why I was so excited when I found this blazer and heard it was twinsticked. I hope it's just a linkage problem. Or this is what I'll have to do. It should be getting trailered to the trail most of the time anyways. But I would also like to cruise around town every once in a while.

Don't do the 300 doubler. Its just too small for a full size. I have seen upgraded 300 ( with the high dollar ouputs) snap em with a stock 6 cylinder and big tires.

You oughta be able to trade the 300 if you already have it for the correct 205 or sell the 300 and buy a 205.

That's really weird that you say that. I've wheeled with a lot of guys running doublers and a lot of 4:1 Dana 300s and have heard no complaints. That's why I was looking forward to this particular doubler. The real appeal to me is the ratio it gets you and how easy the twin sticks can be installed and operated.

Taken from the specifications page on here:

203 = 2.01:1
300 = 2.62:1
205 = 1.96:1

203/205=3.94:1
203/205=6.03:1 (3:1 gears in 205)

203/300=5.27:1
203/300=8.04:1 (4:1 gears in 300)

Does my math check? the 203/300 is the clear winner here. But if you guys don't think the 300 will hold up, I won't waste the time building it.

I haven't bought a 300 and never planned to. My plan is to wait until someone else is selling their setup and to get a complete one ready to swap in. That way I can same myself the time of putting it all together and the money buying them all separately. From what I've seen on Pirate4x4 that's a savings $500 or more. I could keep my current tcase and rear driveshaft as a backup if the doubler ever fails.

Also I ran 42s with about 10 lbs of air in them all the time with non beadlocked wheels on a 73 blazer nonetheless. Never popped a bead, be aware and carry lighter fluid.

They come of easier than other sizes for sure but it also means they are super easy to reseat. But by no means should you run street pressure wheeling.

I have zero experience with 16.5" wheels. All I know is what I've read and talked with others about. Obviously they don't hold the bead on as well as other sizes since there's no safety ring. I've always aired down, I just don't want to run the risk of one popping off and not having a spare. I'm not going to carry a spare because it doesn't make since to me to be carrying around all of that extra weight. Getting the them back should be easier with the fire trick, but I'll still need an airsource to put more pressure in afterwards.

I believe you and since you have ran them at low pressures and I have not, I'll take your advice.

What psi for rocks?
What psi for snow?

And believe me, I DON'T WANT TO RUN FULL PRESSURE! That would annoy me to no end! But so would popping beads.

 

[82355]

I ruin lots of 16.5" wheels. They will pop a bead easier than other sizes, but you can air them down. If you find the right OEM GM wheels, they do have a safety bead.

Martin

 

[K85 Octane]

could always weld a bead inside the rim, no? Though I don't know anything about this.

 

[ahighfivetolife]

I ruin lots of 16.5" wheels. They will pop a bead easier than other sizes, but you can air them down. If you find the right OEM GM wheels, they do have a safety bead.

Martin

could always weld a bead inside the rim, no? Though I don't know anything about this.

I'm just going to buy some beadlock kits for 16.5" wheels. They're only $160 from DIYBeadlocks.com.

The wheels I have right now seem pretty nice. I bet someone would be willing to trade them for their black steel wheels. If not I could grab a set for $360 new. Even cheaper just getting some off of craigslist/pirate.