Thanks! I'll be happy when I drive her on the highway.
Be careful what you wish for though as I am the total pic whore. Anything specific you wanna see (that I haven't already posted)?
-- A
CK5
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'74 K5 build: Smurf
- Thread starter dremu
- Start date
Thanks! I'll be happy when I drive her on the highway.
Be careful what you wish for though as I am the total pic whore. Anything specific you wanna see (that I haven't already posted)?
-- A
Mwuhahaha. That is predicated on the damn thing being able to move under its own power
And me not being a total webwheeler 
I'm shooting for BlazerBash 2015
-- A
I was hoping you would take that with a sense of humor. I just couldn't resist it.
Martin
Martin
I have actually taken her through a couple the local state OHV parks in her dark distant past, but then started "upgrading"
... and then came the fixing of all the things I broked in the upgrading ... then there was a divorce, and some more fixing, and another divorce (when will I learn!) ... 
But yeah, no, I don't get out much
-- A
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Some observations on crossmembers and motor mounts.
I really, really don't like motor mounts.
A while back I put in the ORD high-clearance crossmember so as to use a straight draglink for my crossover. I had trouble with the stock motor mounts not giving me enough clearance to the oil pan and ended up using spacers. It was still a tight fit and kludgy. Grrr.
As part of my cleaning-up underneath I'm replacing the tranny mounts with poly, and if I'm gonna do that I figgered I should go to poly motor mounts too. Saw Mike "TheBeast_88K5" posting about the DIY4Xmounts and they looked seckseh, so I ordered me a set.
First, let me say that Kert does fantastic work, that this tirade is nothing about him or his product, and the end result is wonderful. There is now adequate clearance on the oilpan, it doesn't shake excessively and the whole drivetrain is firmly mounted to the frame without being bolted tight. (And the poly is more resistant than rubber to the various leaks that old trucks seem invariably to sprout.)
This tirade is about the old adage: "Do it once, do it right." To swap motor mounts, I ended up having to remove the crossmember entirely, swearing and muttering all the while. And even though I only loosely fastened all the bolts on reassembly, I had all manner of hassle getting one of the mounts to line up. (Again, it's not the mount's fault: The truck is what, nearly 40 years old and has suffered unknown ills over those decades, so some wrestling is to be expected.)
I really really don't like motor mounts. More accurately, I really really don't like installing them. This set, they better be good for a long looong time!
Point being, if you're gonna do a high-clearance crossmember, whether ORD, Kert's, custom, whatever ... do it all at once. Replace the crossmember, put in whoever's fancy motor mounts you like, be done with it. Your back and your blood pressure will thank you for it.
They are very pretty once installed, and there is much more access to e.g. the fuel pump, etc.
The blue splotch in the upper left is the new harmonic damper, which thus far has not tried to come apart and exit the vehicle, so we mark that in the "Win" column for the moment anyway.
-- A
I really, really don't like motor mounts.
A while back I put in the ORD high-clearance crossmember so as to use a straight draglink for my crossover. I had trouble with the stock motor mounts not giving me enough clearance to the oil pan and ended up using spacers. It was still a tight fit and kludgy. Grrr.
As part of my cleaning-up underneath I'm replacing the tranny mounts with poly, and if I'm gonna do that I figgered I should go to poly motor mounts too. Saw Mike "TheBeast_88K5" posting about the DIY4Xmounts and they looked seckseh, so I ordered me a set.
First, let me say that Kert does fantastic work, that this tirade is nothing about him or his product, and the end result is wonderful. There is now adequate clearance on the oilpan, it doesn't shake excessively and the whole drivetrain is firmly mounted to the frame without being bolted tight. (And the poly is more resistant than rubber to the various leaks that old trucks seem invariably to sprout.)
This tirade is about the old adage: "Do it once, do it right." To swap motor mounts, I ended up having to remove the crossmember entirely, swearing and muttering all the while. And even though I only loosely fastened all the bolts on reassembly, I had all manner of hassle getting one of the mounts to line up. (Again, it's not the mount's fault: The truck is what, nearly 40 years old and has suffered unknown ills over those decades, so some wrestling is to be expected.)
I really really don't like motor mounts. More accurately, I really really don't like installing them. This set, they better be good for a long looong time!
Point being, if you're gonna do a high-clearance crossmember, whether ORD, Kert's, custom, whatever ... do it all at once. Replace the crossmember, put in whoever's fancy motor mounts you like, be done with it. Your back and your blood pressure will thank you for it.
They are very pretty once installed, and there is much more access to e.g. the fuel pump, etc.
The blue splotch in the upper left is the new harmonic damper, which thus far has not tried to come apart and exit the vehicle, so we mark that in the "Win" column for the moment anyway.
-- A
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TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Looks great!
Would you believe, I was in such a hurry to get my MM's in,
That I forgot to paint them!
Would you believe, I was in such a hurry to get my MM's in,
That I forgot to paint them!
Looks great!
Would you believe, I was in such a hurry to get my MM's in,
That I forgot to paint them!
Not gonna pop 'em out to do it now? I am learning to add a coupla days to delivery time -- i.e. I order, takes a coupla days for Kert to weld the part, a coupla days to get mailed to me, coupla days to primer and paint it ... THEN I can install it.
This stupid hot weather is nice for that though, the garage is a handy paint booth / oven
-- A
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TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Yea.... My garage VASTLY reduces curing times, as well...
I'd been mulling over the idea of new seats since I put in the cage and lost headroom. The factory seats are surprisingly tall even when bottomed out on my cage and my 6' 1" noggin was getting a bit too close to the cage. I have some padding for it I gotta put in, which will reduce the pain of impact but will also reduce headroom.
Then I saw Kert post up in the vendor section about how they were a dealer for PRP seats, offering better-than-direct pricing. I figured this was A Sign From On High that I should break down and get some low-profile racing buckets. As mentioned in that thread, it was a simple and quick deal to custom-order the seats.
In my case the seats mount to the cage, so I don't know about the floor-mount bracket sets you can buy. I ended up having to redo one of the adjustable tracks in my cage, but this is what happens when you have a welder. You start saying "Oh, that's easy: just cut here, weld there" and before you know it the truck is in pieces again, spread across the house. [I have not yet moved in with my girlfriend, thankfully, as she'd not cope well with brake rotors, spindles and bearings in the kitchen. ]
The seats I selected were the "Daily Driver" in vinyl (easier to clean) and an appropriate blue for the Smurfoflage theme. I went with a single color, though PRP lets you do different trim and panels and whatnot.
http://prpseats.com/Category/4-roadster-series.aspx
I didn't want a full-on racing bucket as I am a man of some stature, shall we say, and wanted to be able to get in and out of the truck without making a total fool of myself. Also, as mentioned, I wanted a low-profile seat to fit better on my cage, and after prodigious measuring, I think this serves nicely. (You'd be surprised at the difficulty I had reading a tape measure directly above my head )
Here's the driver's seat, test fit with the harness set up:
I'm toying with adjusting the front up, i.e. tipping the seat back just a smidge. See the bracket with the three bolts up front. Since it's bolt-on instead of welded, I can remove it, adjust it, whatever, after I've had a chance to drive her a bit. Prolly bend them a bit for offset if they end up in there permanently.
And the fire extinguisher fits nicely behind the seat and there's enough room to slide it out.
I was amazed at how LIGHT these seats are. I noticed some manufacturers actually advertise the seat's weight, as if removing 20 or 30 pounds from your vehicle will make it noticeably faster. While I don't care if they're heavy once they're installed, during the time I'm test-fitting these, I 've REALLY appreciated the fact that they weigh like HALF as much as the factory buckets
At the moment I've still got the factory bench in the back, but depending on what I do with the air tank for the York, I might get a PRP bench for back there too. Might just use one of the factory buckets that were up front, we'll see.
-- A
Then I saw Kert post up in the vendor section about how they were a dealer for PRP seats, offering better-than-direct pricing. I figured this was A Sign From On High that I should break down and get some low-profile racing buckets.
As mentioned in that thread, it was a simple and quick deal to custom-order the seats.In my case the seats mount to the cage, so I don't know about the floor-mount bracket sets you can buy. I ended up having to redo one of the adjustable tracks in my cage, but this is what happens when you have a welder. You start saying "Oh, that's easy: just cut here, weld there" and before you know it the truck is in pieces again, spread across the house. [I have not yet moved in with my girlfriend, thankfully, as she'd not cope well with brake rotors, spindles and bearings in the kitchen.
]The seats I selected were the "Daily Driver" in vinyl (easier to clean) and an appropriate blue for the Smurfoflage theme. I went with a single color, though PRP lets you do different trim and panels and whatnot.
http://prpseats.com/Category/4-roadster-series.aspx
I didn't want a full-on racing bucket as I am a man of some stature, shall we say, and wanted to be able to get in and out of the truck without making a total fool of myself. Also, as mentioned, I wanted a low-profile seat to fit better on my cage, and after prodigious measuring, I think this serves nicely. (You'd be surprised at the difficulty I had reading a tape measure directly above my head
)Here's the driver's seat, test fit with the harness set up:
I'm toying with adjusting the front up, i.e. tipping the seat back just a smidge. See the bracket with the three bolts up front. Since it's bolt-on instead of welded, I can remove it, adjust it, whatever, after I've had a chance to drive her a bit. Prolly bend them a bit for offset if they end up in there permanently.
And the fire extinguisher fits nicely behind the seat and there's enough room to slide it out.
I was amazed at how LIGHT these seats are. I noticed some manufacturers actually advertise the seat's weight, as if removing 20 or 30 pounds from your vehicle will make it noticeably faster
. While I don't care if they're heavy once they're installed, during the time I'm test-fitting these, I 've REALLY appreciated the fact that they weigh like HALF as much as the factory buckets At the moment I've still got the factory bench in the back, but depending on what I do with the air tank for the York, I might get a PRP bench for back there too. Might just use one of the factory buckets that were up front, we'll see.
-- A
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TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Gawdammit Aaron, that seat is frekkin' awesome!
Gawdammit Aaron, that seat is frekkin' awesome!
They are purty. The thing is, now that the doors look nice and the seats are new, I'm lookin' at that ratty old dash thinking about a DIY4X replacement ... or god, even just, you know, CARPET
Lotsa blue. My dad always says "You can have any color you want, as long as it's blue".
Both seats in and the padding installed. I got this offset stuff from Jegs that basically snaps on, through I also sprayed some 3M goo in there to keep them from rattling about. Even my cat thought they were funny lookin':
-- A
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TheBeast_88K5
Banned
They are purty. The thing is, now that the doors look nice and the seats are new, I'm lookin' at that ratty old dash thinking about a DIY4X replacement ... or god, even just, you know, CARPET
-- A
"Might as well..."
"Might as well..."
I'm hoping to make it to BlazerBash 2020; when's Greg's target date?
-- A
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I'm hoping to make it to BlazerBash 2020; when's Greg's target date?
-- A
I dunno... But, I thought this:
I'm hoping to make it to BlazerBash 2020; when's Greg's target date?
-- A
Pull it in by one year....
My commitment was to bein Moab for the 50th Anniversary of the K5. (2019)
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297946
If I can do it, you can too...
-G
Well, yeah, except your truck will be all-new fabulously welded magazine-show-quality amazing piece of engineering.
Tankie is just ... blue
But yeah, you'd think I could do it in seven years...
-- A
Shouldn't it really be 2018, since the '69 model year would have been released in '68?
Shouldn't it really be 2018, since the '69 model year would have been released in '68?
Hey hey hey. I need all the help I can get! (Though yes of course you're right. Maybe Greg is talking about the Jimmy, though, which came out ca 1969 for 1970 model year.)
-- A
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