Thanks. Someday I'll even be able to drive her =))81K5GUY said:
-- A
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'74 K5 build: Smurf
- Thread starter dremu
- Start date
-- A
While I'm working out various issues -- steering is better now, but she's still leaking a few things 
-- I'm also doing a lightbar, as dangit, I've always wanted one. I'm sure I'll find it ridiculous when I'm done, so I've designed it to be removable from the rollcage ... this also assists in getting the truck into the garage, should said garage ever be clean enough to fit a vehicle into ever again. But I digress.
Anyway, before I post up pix of the lightbar, I thought I'd show the switch panel in its latest incarnation, as well as a coupla older ones.
First I had a set of foglights and a set of driving lights ... the third switch musta been for the missile launcher or something
Seeing as I don't smoke, replacing the ashtray with the switch panel seemed clever, and plastic is hella cheap in the scrap bin at TAP.
Eventually I found the need for more switches. This one controls the driving lights, the solenoid for the front ARB, the OBA compressor clutch, and a fast idle bump to run the OBA compressor faster. One of the lights tells me when the compressor clutch is actually engaged (i.e. after the pressure switch for the OBA system), and the other two lights are there to fill the holes
With the lightbar I'd need at least one more switch, so I decided to go full bore and fill in the empty radio space with a panel. This one has the above stuff, plus the light bar, and in-cab controls for the winch.
And a coupla switches and an extra light for, as they say, "future expansion." I'm sure I'll find *something* to do with the connections.
That textured ABS is great stuff; the pattern isn't a perfect match for our dashes, but it's close enough that most people won't notice. It's also cheap and easy to work with: that piece was cut entirely with a Dremel and shaped to fit into the dash. The right-hand holes go into the factory speed clips, and I drilled two new ones on the left through the dash as well for two more speed clips. It's very solid and except on close examination looks factory.
Well, that and I *could* label the switches ... but that would make it easy =))
And even though it's just your basic Motormite stuff and not those Carling ones that Ryoken likes ($$), I just briefly added up what this thing cost me and gagged. They're not kidding when they say that "4x4" in uppercase is "$X$"!!
-- A
-- I'm also doing a lightbar, as dangit, I've always wanted one. I'm sure I'll find it ridiculous when I'm done, so I've designed it to be removable from the rollcage ... this also assists in getting the truck into the garage, should said garage ever be clean enough to fit a vehicle into ever again. But I digress.Anyway, before I post up pix of the lightbar, I thought I'd show the switch panel in its latest incarnation, as well as a coupla older ones.
First I had a set of foglights and a set of driving lights ... the third switch musta been for the missile launcher or something
Seeing as I don't smoke, replacing the ashtray with the switch panel seemed clever, and plastic is hella cheap in the scrap bin at TAP.
Eventually I found the need for more switches. This one controls the driving lights, the solenoid for the front ARB, the OBA compressor clutch, and a fast idle bump to run the OBA compressor faster. One of the lights tells me when the compressor clutch is actually engaged (i.e. after the pressure switch for the OBA system), and the other two lights are there to fill the holes
With the lightbar I'd need at least one more switch, so I decided to go full bore and fill in the empty radio space with a panel. This one has the above stuff, plus the light bar, and in-cab controls for the winch.
And a coupla switches and an extra light for, as they say, "future expansion." I'm sure I'll find *something* to do with the connections.
That textured ABS is great stuff; the pattern isn't a perfect match for our dashes, but it's close enough that most people won't notice. It's also cheap and easy to work with: that piece was cut entirely with a Dremel and shaped to fit into the dash. The right-hand holes go into the factory speed clips, and I drilled two new ones on the left through the dash as well for two more speed clips. It's very solid and except on close examination looks factory.
Well, that and I *could* label the switches ... but that would make it easy =))
And even though it's just your basic Motormite stuff and not those Carling ones that Ryoken likes ($$), I just briefly added up what this thing cost me and gagged. They're not kidding when they say that "4x4" in uppercase is "$X$"!!
-- A
lectric80
3/4 ton status
So where does the radio go now?
I couldn't live without a radio, even added Sirius so that I can listen everywhere.
I couldn't live without a radio, even added Sirius so that I can listen everywhere.
lectric80 said:
Topless, doorless ... radioless. Can't see the point for this rig. My tow rig ... yeah, CD player plus ten disc changer, both of which do MP3 discs ... but this one, no.
-- A
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Well, I guess that is true since you have the fulltop. I only have a half top, and with the top off, I can still hear the stereo pretty good at 80 on the freeway. Since it is also my tow rig and play rig, I have to have the stereo.
So here's the switch panel installed. Got the winch controls wired up, only took me an hour or so to run three wires 12 feet.
From upper left, clockwise: OBA stuff, green (clutch indicator, compressor engage, idle bump), future expansion light (red), winch controls, two future expansion switches, ARB solenoid (orange), and the bumper lights and light bar (blue.)
Speaking of the lightbar, here she is. This was my first experience working with pipe (as opposed to tube) and it's a bear to weld on, even when cleaned off. Grrr.
I cut a piece of 2" ID pipe lengthwise (no mean feat without a bandsaw) and used each half atop my rollbar, with a U-bolt on each end and a piece of small pipe (nominally 1/4", I think, which fits 5/16" U-bolts nicely) as you see here:
More pix:
Donno why that last one came out so blue; was later in the evening and the camera was in a mood, or something.
Anyway, it's easily removable, for fitting the truck into the garage and/or flipping the truck over The farthest outside set of lights needs to be adjusted some -- I used a piece of flat stock in the center but had to extend it a bit on each end and my extensions weren't flat.
Actually, the whole thing is really bad, in terms of level and dimensions ... it was my first big project with my HF kinker (it's not really a bender) and ... well, I learned a lot about measuring and what NOT to do, let's just say that.
OTOH, it's not like it has to be strong enough to hold the truck up -- that's what the cage is for, and it's certainly sturdy as it is, just ugly and misshapen ... and it throws down extra light in front AND makes the truck even more rednecked, which is about its intended purpose 
And no, kits are NOT available ... though the next one I make might actually be straight 
-- A
From upper left, clockwise: OBA stuff, green (clutch indicator, compressor engage, idle bump), future expansion light (red), winch controls, two future expansion switches, ARB solenoid (orange), and the bumper lights and light bar (blue.)
Speaking of the lightbar, here she is. This was my first experience working with pipe (as opposed to tube) and it's a bear to weld on, even when cleaned off. Grrr.
I cut a piece of 2" ID pipe lengthwise (no mean feat without a bandsaw) and used each half atop my rollbar, with a U-bolt on each end and a piece of small pipe (nominally 1/4", I think, which fits 5/16" U-bolts nicely) as you see here:
More pix:
Donno why that last one came out so blue; was later in the evening and the camera was in a mood, or something.
Anyway, it's easily removable, for fitting the truck into the garage and/or flipping the truck over
The farthest outside set of lights needs to be adjusted some -- I used a piece of flat stock in the center but had to extend it a bit on each end and my extensions weren't flat.Actually, the whole thing is really bad, in terms of level and dimensions ... it was my first big project with my HF kinker (it's not really a bender) and ... well, I learned a lot about measuring and what NOT to do, let's just say that.
OTOH, it's not like it has to be strong enough to hold the truck up -- that's what the cage is for, and it's certainly sturdy as it is, just ugly and misshapen
... and it throws down extra light in front AND makes the truck even more rednecked, which is about its intended purpose And no, kits are NOT available
... though the next one I make might actually be straight -- A
Dafey
1/2 ton status
I think the light bar is real cool. I have been looking around for something cheap to make one. I`ve been looking at my old luggage rack I took off ... 
your not going to be able to see anything without more lights then that. 
do you have them all angled different so that you have a wider range of sight? or are they all straight so you can burn ants during the day with them? the switch panel looks almost factory.
gmc4cw said:the switch panel looks almost factory.
Thanks ... that part definitely came out well. I may not be the world's best welder, but I'm hell with that Dremel, I tell ya!
As for the lights, they're not THAT bright ... well, not in my driveway anyway. I may swing the outer sets out a bit to cover a wider area, yeah, we'll see. They're 55W H3's ... I was debating getting brighter bulbs for them, but that (1) takes more juice and (2) costs almost as much as the damn lights -- these are cheapos from, oddly, Harbor Freight. (They had them on sale =))
The wiring (which is all heatshrinked and wiretied and such) is #10AWG and is run off one relay, which is fine for the ~32A peak those things draw now (4.6A per light nominally). Any more, like the 85W bulbs (7A each = 49A), would at least mean having to parallel a second relay, which is easy enough, but also might stress the wiring.
And Dafey, pipe ain't that expensive
but next time I might do square tube. Though, especially after some Bondo and painting, and from a distance, the round looks pretty good with the rollbar. It's only when you get close you say "Aaron what DID you do to that thing?" -- A
broncoman6524
1/2 ton status
NICE!! im likin it...kinda shiny though aint it?
I agree with chas...that panel looks factory...
I agree with chas...that panel looks factory...
broncoman6524 said:NICE!! im likin it...kinda shiny though aint it?
I agree with chas...that panel looks factory...
LOL ... yeah, it's like the ONE chrome thing on the truck. I couldn't decide whether I should paint them appliance epoxy white, like the cage and bar, or one of the blues from the truck ... so I left 'em be. Plus painting over chrome, especially cheap chrome, is a PITA =))
'Sides, I can have ONE concession to being a big-azz redneck truck can't I?
-- A
broncoman6524
1/2 ton status
ah goood point...when i bought my daylighters from the swap meet i brouhgt them home tore em apart...used the wire wheel to scratch up/take off the chrome...they are now black
but to be a true redneck truck you gotta have some WRONG way of fixin somehting that actually could work and cost you nothing or very little... you seen the steering box brace on the trazer?
but to be a true redneck truck you gotta have some WRONG way of fixin somehting that actually could work and cost you nothing or very little...
you seen the steering box brace on the trazer?
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Yeah but I have no way to bend or weld them right now...And Dafey, pipe ain't that expensive
Wow this was quite a build! I just spent a half hour reading it. Nice!
primerk5
1/2 ton status
What did you do about the wiring. Did you put in any breakers or maybe relays? I need to get mine wired back up. I have the 150 watt KCs. I think that is what they are.
Well, it ain't your truck ... but it never would be, too much rustCraig Artzner said:Wow this was quite a build! I just spent a half hour reading it. Nice!
My wheel wells, the rears particularly, were trimmed on the basis of cutting out rust more than tire size, grrr. Still, it's fun... and I dream of someday finding (and having a place to put) a stocker like yours 
primerk5 said:
Well, 30A fuse for over-current protection, yes, and a relay of course; I have a little cluster of four of them on the driver's side fender. While the typical switch is rated for 20-30A, I don't wanna run #10 into the dash and back again, as it'll just add resistance, is more of a hassle never mind a greater risk ... so the switches are all wired with #16 or #18, and then they go to the relays for the heavy current stuff.
A pair of 150W lights would mean a 25A load, so you'd want a 30A relay and a 25 or 30A fuse, fwiw.
-- A
primerk5
1/2 ton status
dremu said:
I think I have 2 30 A Breakers I would just need the Relays then and a good switch I run 4 of those 150 W KCs.
When I did have them wired talk about white light!!!!!..
I was dumb back then. I had 12 ga wire from the battery to a switch then from the switch to the breakers. After that each breaker controlled 2 lights. It was a mess. And from what I know now, I'm more amazed that I didn't burn my truck to the ground. I did eventually kill the switch. Sad part is they had hardly been used before it burned the switch up.
I'll do better next time.
Since the consensus is that build threads are blase now, I'll just update this one to link to the bumper thread
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220663
more to come...
-- A
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220663
more to come...
-- A
Randy92782
1 ton status
Man i was really into this til i couldn't see the pics anymore. that was a bummer
Donno what to tell you ... they're hosted on my ISP on my domain, slosh.com ... you need not be a member or anything.
-- A
