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CK5
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'74 K5 build: Smurf
- Thread starter dremu
- Start date
sweet!
Way to go man!
Yep.
I remember going to Hollister Hills for the first time with my Blazer. I got all flexed-out trying to pick my way through some trails, and when I went to drive back home the steering wheel was misaligned, and I had a few new shimmies and shakes!
-G
I remember going to Hollister Hills for the first time with my Blazer. I got all flexed-out trying to pick my way through some trails, and when I went to drive back home the steering wheel was misaligned, and I had a few new shimmies and shakes!
-G
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Awesome dremu! Im waiting to test my truck and hollister will be the place here shortly. Theres a gp race going on so the 18th will be the day for me to make the journey.
Thanks all for the kind words! It was a bit of a scary trip on a newly-refreshed trailer with a bunch of work done to the truck, etc, but this is why they are called shake-down trips.
Did the old "visual inspection" today, i.e. crawled underneath and grabbed things, to determine what wasn't moving that should, or vice versa. Discovered the front driveshaft CV had shaken almost loose from its yoke on the T-case
Quick trip to the Ace, new bolts and Loc-tite the hell out of them, et voila, no more What Is That Bad Noise In The Front End? 
More than once I post up here about Occam's Razor, which basically says that of the possible causes for a problem, the simplest one is the most likely. I have to remind myself of that same, sage advice. I was figuring on the front shaft being bent or a ball joint askew or whatever other painful thing borked, but no. Loose bolts. (Admittedly, getting to said loose bolts required me to remove the skid plates and a crossmember, adding a whole lot of time, but still, just loose bolts.)
Point being that these are generally simple trucks and things that go wrong are generally simple too.
-- A
Did the old "visual inspection" today, i.e. crawled underneath and grabbed things, to determine what wasn't moving that should, or vice versa. Discovered the front driveshaft CV had shaken almost loose from its yoke on the T-case
Quick trip to the Ace, new bolts and Loc-tite the hell out of them, et voila, no more What Is That Bad Noise In The Front End? More than once I post up here about Occam's Razor, which basically says that of the possible causes for a problem, the simplest one is the most likely. I have to remind myself of that same, sage advice. I was figuring on the front shaft being bent or a ball joint askew or whatever other painful thing borked, but no. Loose bolts. (Admittedly, getting to said loose bolts required me to remove the skid plates and a crossmember, adding a whole lot of time, but still, just loose bolts.)
Point being that these are generally simple trucks and things that go wrong are generally simple too.
-- A
Thanks all for the kind words! It was a bit of a scary trip on a newly-refreshed trailer with a bunch of work done to the truck, etc, but this is why they are called shake-down trips.
Did the old "visual inspection" today, i.e. crawled underneath and grabbed things, to determine what wasn't moving that should, or vice versa. Discovered the front driveshaft CV had shaken almost loose from its yoke on the T-case
More than once I post up here about Occam's Razor, which basically says that of the possible causes for a problem, the simplest one is the most likely. I have to remind myself of that same, sage advice. I was figuring on the front shaft being bent or a ball joint askew or whatever other painful thing borked, but no. Loose bolts. (Admittedly, getting to said loose bolts required me to remove the skid plates and a crossmember, adding a whole lot of time, but still, just loose bolts.)
Point being that these are generally simple trucks and things that go wrong are generally simple too.
-- A
That works right up to the point where you are praying it's the simple cheap easy fix and it turns out to be something catastrophic. If you go in expecting the worst it will usually be simple. That's more along the lines of Murphey's law.
Do you have a flange or a yoke?
Martin
Martin
Yoke for a 1310 CV. In retrospect I'd looove to have a flange -- the rear is flanges at both ends for ease of disconnection -- but live and learn.
-- A
Time to update the thread with some of the work done over the last year. As a teaser, THE best mod, hands down, I've ever done, is converting to TBI. I shoulda done this on day one, should never have messed with the carb, coulda woulda shoulda.
But for now, the three S's (and no, I don't mean the morning ablutions and constitutional )
S step one, skid plates. I had a factory skid plate on one side of the under belly, but wanted coverage on both sides. The crossmembers had holes on both sides and I figgered it should be easy enough to install a second one. Finding a second factory to match proved a challenge, plus there's a hole for the T-case adapter that isn't mirrored. The adapter feet aren't centered on the crossmember, as you'll see in the pix.
After measuring repeatedly, went down to the steel shop and got a piece of 1/4" plate the same size as my existing one. I don't have the facility to bend anything that thick, so I scored the "inside" of the bends with the grinder, then bent using the precision whangs of the 5# sledge.
Here you can see it's carefully matched to the original:
And there is some indication of safety gear (eye protection
) along with the aforementioned precision sledge. 
Once the bends were done, the insides of the scores were welded back up. I clamped the thing down to the table and stitch-welded it some, alternating sides, to try and keep warpage down.
But for now, the three S's (and no, I don't mean the morning ablutions and constitutional
)S step one, skid plates. I had a factory skid plate on one side of the under belly, but wanted coverage on both sides. The crossmembers had holes on both sides and I figgered it should be easy enough to install a second one. Finding a second factory to match proved a challenge, plus there's a hole for the T-case adapter that isn't mirrored. The adapter feet aren't centered on the crossmember, as you'll see in the pix.
After measuring repeatedly, went down to the steel shop and got a piece of 1/4" plate the same size as my existing one. I don't have the facility to bend anything that thick, so I scored the "inside" of the bends with the grinder, then bent using the precision whangs of the 5# sledge.
Here you can see it's carefully matched to the original:
And there is some indication of safety gear (eye protection
) along with the aforementioned precision sledge. Once the bends were done, the insides of the scores were welded back up. I clamped the thing down to the table and stitch-welded it some, alternating sides, to try and keep warpage down.
Then the holes are all marked and drilled. I ended up welding nuts inside the crossmembers to make it easier to assemble and disassemble.
Note the access holes for the tranny adapter foot are not quite symmetrical. If I had been able to source another factory plate, I would have drilled a new hole and then welded the plug into the old hole.
And installed:
I figure the plates protect the t-cases, the parking brake, and the various linkages for the shifter and the brake, plus one end of the driveshafts. There's still possibility for damage, especially to the driveshafts, and the skidplates hang down off the frame a bit, but if I drag 1/4" plate along an obstacle, eh, no big deal.
-- A
Note the access holes for the tranny adapter foot are not quite symmetrical. If I had been able to source another factory plate, I would have drilled a new hole and then welded the plug into the old hole.
And installed:
I figure the plates protect the t-cases, the parking brake, and the various linkages for the shifter and the brake, plus one end of the driveshafts. There's still possibility for damage, especially to the driveshafts, and the skidplates hang down off the frame a bit, but if I drag 1/4" plate along an obstacle, eh, no big deal.
-- A
S step two is the snorkel. This actually is prolly the least exciting in terms of installation, as MetroDPS did a writeup for his Dante's Peak rig and there's a bunch of other guys who've done it too. This is your basic cheap Chinese snorkel for a Toyota FJ80 from Ebay. Was a ton cheaper than the real ARB one, and if I bung it up, eh, who cares.
I have zero intent of actually needing a snorkel playing U-Boat Commander, but I took the silly roof lightbar off and so I had to have one ridiculous poser accessory Plus it plumbed well into the throttle body when I did the TBI conversion.
This particular kit came with a paper template, though you can make your own with cardboard if required. Those of you with nice fenders will cringe when you drill; in my case, it wasn't such a big deal.
Dropped the inner fender, which blows rust and crap into your eyes even if you're wearing goggles. Grr. Cutting the inside of the fender also sucks, and you really need to cut a larger hole than you think. Trust me. Also, getting to the rearmost studs under the hood hinges really, really sucks.
Anyway, filled the tube with sand, hit it with the heatgun, and then ratcheted to the front bumper. There's something ironic about using your own recovery points to do fab work
I didn't have to cut and re-weld the bracket in the kit I got, just trimmed it and drilled new holes. Some self-tapping screws hold it into the door frame adequately for my purposes. Again, those with pristine trucks might take more care. In my case the bracket fit nicely into the door gap without having to adjust the door.
And the end result is fun.
-- A
I have zero intent of actually needing a snorkel playing U-Boat Commander, but I took the silly roof lightbar off and so I had to have one ridiculous poser accessory
Plus it plumbed well into the throttle body when I did the TBI conversion.This particular kit came with a paper template, though you can make your own with cardboard if required. Those of you with nice fenders will cringe when you drill; in my case, it wasn't such a big deal.
Dropped the inner fender, which blows rust and crap into your eyes even if you're wearing goggles. Grr. Cutting the inside of the fender also sucks, and you really need to cut a larger hole than you think. Trust me. Also, getting to the rearmost studs under the hood hinges really, really sucks.
Anyway, filled the tube with sand, hit it with the heatgun, and then ratcheted to the front bumper. There's something ironic about using your own recovery points to do fab work
I didn't have to cut and re-weld the bracket in the kit I got, just trimmed it and drilled new holes. Some self-tapping screws hold it into the door frame adequately for my purposes. Again, those with pristine trucks might take more care. In my case the bracket fit nicely into the door gap without having to adjust the door.
And the end result is fun.
-- A
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And S-step number three, storage. I am thoroughly enamored of ammo cans as storage in the truck. They're sealed, which is great for a topless or semi-topless truck, keeping out the weather elements, and they can be made lockable which keeps out the criminal sticky-fingered elements.
They're also solidly built, which is important for a truck that shakes and rattles even on the road, and are available in a wide variety of sizes to suit most any need. I got mine on Ebay and from this guy: http://ammocanman.com/
They're also solidly built, which is important for a truck that shakes and rattles even on the road, and are available in a wide variety of sizes to suit most any need. I got mine on Ebay and from this guy: http://ammocanman.com/
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So lessee, where to begin? I put a coupla middle-sized ones (50 cal) on the rear wheel wells, as sort of side consoles for the rear seats. These hold the tire inflator and the jerry can nozzle and siphon and smaller stuff that I prioritized over putting into the rear toolbox, which is more difficult to get to.
While they're not lockable from the gitgo, you can get kits that make them such. Or for the enterprising redneck it's easy enough to elongate that side hole, and then drill a hole in the side and pop a bolt through:
You can also do it with an eyebolt, though that does have to be welded on the inside or else it can just be backed out by turning.
On these I welded the bolt head into place, though that's not strictly necessary. Could just do a square hole and use a carriage bolt. Drill through the bolt body and a small padlock fits right into place.
As with all such security, it won't stop somebody with bolt cutters or a long prybar or whatever, but it prevents the casual klepto from getting into your goodies.
A coat of white appliance enamel
makes them shiny and somewhat more dirt-resistant. The OD green is cool and all, but flat paints tend to pick up crap, so the gloss is easier to maintain.
They fit right between the seat and the bedrail:
I did have to remove the arm rests from the seat, but that seat rarely gets used for people. If you actually have interior panels and/or passengers, you might go with like the 30cal sized boxes which are skinnier.
While they're not lockable from the gitgo, you can get kits that make them such. Or for the enterprising redneck it's easy enough to elongate that side hole, and then drill a hole in the side and pop a bolt through:
You can also do it with an eyebolt, though that does have to be welded on the inside or else it can just be backed out by turning.
On these I welded the bolt head into place, though that's not strictly necessary. Could just do a square hole and use a carriage bolt. Drill through the bolt body and a small padlock fits right into place.
As with all such security, it won't stop somebody with bolt cutters or a long prybar or whatever, but it prevents the casual klepto from getting into your goodies.
A coat of white appliance enamel
makes them shiny and somewhat more dirt-resistant. The OD green is cool and all, but flat paints tend to pick up crap, so the gloss is easier to maintain.
They fit right between the seat and the bedrail:
I did have to remove the arm rests from the seat, but that seat rarely gets used for people. If you actually have interior panels and/or passengers, you might go with like the 30cal sized boxes which are skinnier.
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Behind the rear seat, I opted for a pair of the 30mm boxes. (Note these are much larger than the 30cal boxes!) They were bolted in place using the original tire carrier holes and a similar set I'd added on the driver's side.
However, while the boxes physically fit, the seat was so far back it prevented the lids from opening I made some low-profile brackets, then, to move the seat a few inches forward.
Doesn't leave a lot of legroom for rear seat passengers, but compromise is key.
As with the smaller boxes, they were made lockable by the addition of a tab on each side:
which conveniently fits right into one of the existing slots
Thanks again DIY4X
Again with the appliance epoxy
and in they go
These hold all the recovery gear: straps, tree saver, chain, spare bits for the Hi-Lift, extra synth rope and hooks, snatch block, etc etc.
However, while the boxes physically fit, the seat was so far back it prevented the lids from opening
I made some low-profile brackets, then, to move the seat a few inches forward.
Doesn't leave a lot of legroom for rear seat passengers, but compromise is key.
As with the smaller boxes, they were made lockable by the addition of a tab on each side:
which conveniently fits right into one of the existing slots
Thanks again DIY4X
Again with the appliance epoxy
and in they go
These hold all the recovery gear: straps, tree saver, chain, spare bits for the Hi-Lift, extra synth rope and hooks, snatch block, etc etc.
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Finally, some 30cal cans (among the smallest sizes) make great tool boxes. After inventorying my tools, I discovered I had enough old socket sets and whatnot that there was almost enough to dedicate tools to the truck. (This gave me an excuse to buy a coupla new ratchets and such for the shop, yay!)
Anyway, in a Vin Diesel-esque moment of XXX: "I want all of this [points to the James Bond-style rocket launchers and such] ... in that [points to the GTO.]" I laid out the tools on the workbench
and then divided them up into the little cans. Lo and behold, they fit nicely into the back of the big box, and since it's locking, the little ones can just latch.
And labeled them by contents (1/2 DRIVE, PLIERS+SCREWDRIVERS, SPECIALITY, etc)
-- A
Anyway, in a Vin Diesel-esque moment of XXX: "I want all of this [points to the James Bond-style rocket launchers and such] ... in that [points to the GTO.]" I laid out the tools on the workbench
and then divided them up into the little cans. Lo and behold, they fit nicely into the back of the big box, and since it's locking, the little ones can just latch.
And labeled them by contents (1/2 DRIVE, PLIERS+SCREWDRIVERS, SPECIALITY, etc)
-- A
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Thinking of the rear toolbox, the Hi-Lift found its permanent home. Drilled a coupla square holes in the top of it
(For those not aware, there ARE square drill bits, or at least drill bit assemblies that cut square holes, but they're mostly used on a piece you could put into a drill press and not, for instance, onto a multi-hundred-pound toolbox. This would be a round hole that was then filed with a square file to get the corners. Which is boring and tedious.)
Then into the holes go a coupla carriage bolts (also drilled for a padlock, just in case)
And again with the DIY4X, this time the "full wing nut" to hold down the jack.
(there's a spacer underneath to lift the jack up off the box surface, like an inch or so.) Surprisingly, the jack doesn't rattle noticeably; the poly handle-holder helps a lot there.
And that's the ~60" jack, just fits across the back. Even fit a coupla 20L water jugs back there which, surprisingly, don't block the rear view.
in the top of it
(For those not aware, there ARE square drill bits, or at least drill bit assemblies that cut square holes, but they're mostly used on a piece you could put into a drill press and not, for instance, onto a multi-hundred-pound toolbox. This would be a round hole that was then filed with a square file to get the corners. Which is boring and tedious.)
Then into the holes go a coupla carriage bolts (also drilled for a padlock, just in case)
And again with the DIY4X, this time the "full wing nut" to hold down the jack.
(there's a spacer underneath to lift the jack up off the box surface, like an inch or so.) Surprisingly, the jack doesn't rattle noticeably; the poly handle-holder helps a lot there.
And that's the ~60" jack, just fits across the back. Even fit a coupla 20L water jugs back there which, surprisingly, don't block the rear view.
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Well thought out, and I'd say your rig is now very well equipped for anything short of the apocalypse.
When you guys get the next big one, you'll be set!
When you guys get the next big one, you'll be set!
Well thought out, and I'd say your rig is now very well equipped for anything short of the apocalypse.
When you guys get the next big one, you'll be set!
Because here in CA, we're worried about flooding
We're actually in a tremendous drought, so the snorkel is even sillier, but it was fun, and is a cold air intake.Anyway, thanks. She is a capable rig, as I discovered in my Hollister trip.
-- A
Absolutely it is...and most importantly you've now had it long enough to find what works and what doesn't for how you use it. That's a good place to be IMO.
Secondly, just because you're in a drought, doesn't mean you can't drive your K5 to somewhere that isn't. I dunno if I'd ever snorkel my Blazer, but there is a certain peace of mind knowing you're not gonna hydro-lock it crossing a creek.
Secondly, just because you're in a drought, doesn't mean you can't drive your K5 to somewhere that isn't. I dunno if I'd ever snorkel my Blazer, but there is a certain peace of mind knowing you're not gonna hydro-lock it crossing a creek.
