Thats a pretty clean k5, subscribed 
CK5
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76 K5:My Slow Build
- Thread starter mmadblazer76
- Start date
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
OK here what I know about the Engine..
This is a great entry-level replacement engine for older cars and trucks, and a great basic street rod engine. All of the parts in this engine are “Brand New”.
350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke
8.5:1 compression ratio.
250 HP @4300 rpm
350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm
(These Numbers obtained with a Quadra jet Carb, 15/8" headers, and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101)
Engine consists of the following parts:
Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036
2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main
Crankshaft- part # 3932444
Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern.
Powdered Metal Connecting rods- Part # 10108688
Cast Aluminum Pistons- part#12514101
G.M. High Volume Pump Oil Pump- part # 12555284
Hydraulic Flat tappet Camshaft- Part#3863151
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
Intake Duration @ .050"- 194 Exhaust Duration @ .050"- 202
Lobe Seperation-112
This cam Has a mechanical Fuel Pump Lobe.
This is a low end Torque oriented camshaft.
Cylinder Heads- part # 14034808, casting #33417369, 1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve, 76cc Combustion Chamber, 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard, 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's
Notes:
Will not work in 1986 and newer applications!
This engine includes Painted Valve Covers, oil pan and Timing Cover. This engine is drilled for both L.H. and R.H. dipsticks. Plugs Are included to plug the side not used. Two timing pointers are also included, a pointer for a 6" balancer and a pointer for an 8' balancer. Balancer with 2:00 timing mark must be used with this engine in order for mark to line up with the pointer.
For most stock applications with HEI ignition, Base ignition timing should be set to 10 before top dead center (with vacuum advance disconnected) Total ignition timing should be around 36 @ 3000 rpm.
Spark plugs that should be used are AC Delco R45TS gapped at .045"
Oil filters used with this engine include PF25, PF35, PF1218, or PF35L. The first oil filter is a 1/2 Quart type; the last three are the 1-quart type.
Generally 10W30 or 10W40 oil is used in this engine.
Does Not Include the balancer, flywheel, intake, Exhaust, Ignition, or fuel parts.
I went with this Engine for the price. I picked it up from Jegs. The rebuild of the original engine would have been close to the same price. So this route I got a new engine and got to keep the old one for future build. It was also 4 bolt main.
This is a great entry-level replacement engine for older cars and trucks, and a great basic street rod engine. All of the parts in this engine are “Brand New”.
350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke
8.5:1 compression ratio.
250 HP @4300 rpm
350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm
(These Numbers obtained with a Quadra jet Carb, 15/8" headers, and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101)
Engine consists of the following parts:
Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036
2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main
Crankshaft- part # 3932444
Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern.
Powdered Metal Connecting rods- Part # 10108688
Cast Aluminum Pistons- part#12514101
G.M. High Volume Pump Oil Pump- part # 12555284
Hydraulic Flat tappet Camshaft- Part#3863151
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
Intake Duration @ .050"- 194 Exhaust Duration @ .050"- 202
Lobe Seperation-112
This cam Has a mechanical Fuel Pump Lobe.
This is a low end Torque oriented camshaft.
Cylinder Heads- part # 14034808, casting #33417369, 1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve, 76cc Combustion Chamber, 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard, 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's
Notes:
Will not work in 1986 and newer applications!
This engine includes Painted Valve Covers, oil pan and Timing Cover. This engine is drilled for both L.H. and R.H. dipsticks. Plugs Are included to plug the side not used. Two timing pointers are also included, a pointer for a 6" balancer and a pointer for an 8' balancer. Balancer with 2:00 timing mark must be used with this engine in order for mark to line up with the pointer.
For most stock applications with HEI ignition, Base ignition timing should be set to 10 before top dead center (with vacuum advance disconnected) Total ignition timing should be around 36 @ 3000 rpm.
Spark plugs that should be used are AC Delco R45TS gapped at .045"
Oil filters used with this engine include PF25, PF35, PF1218, or PF35L. The first oil filter is a 1/2 Quart type; the last three are the 1-quart type.
Generally 10W30 or 10W40 oil is used in this engine.
Does Not Include the balancer, flywheel, intake, Exhaust, Ignition, or fuel parts.
I went with this Engine for the price. I picked it up from Jegs. The rebuild of the original engine would have been close to the same price. So this route I got a new engine and got to keep the old one for future build. It was also 4 bolt main.
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Front end is Dana 44 and rear is 12 bolt. 203 Transfer case with conversion kit. Warn hub locks on front. It was a South Dakota Games and Parks vehicle that my wifes aunt picked up at a auction. It ran fine, it was just tired and greasy, I wanted to pop the hood and see something alittle more cleaner. As far as the exterior there is a look that i'm going for.I don't plan on doing alot of hardcore riding. This is something I plan on handing down.
What axles, gears, lift, tires, etc are you planning on?
Martin
Martin
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
You know all those will be way in the future....but I did have a question about something I read on 78swb build ; he went with Tuff Country instead of Rough Country. Here is the lift I have been eyeballing ... http://www.ntwonline.com/76-87-CHEV...-52-INCH-RR-SPGS-W-SHKS-and.html#.UJhYIcq2Vuw any comment could help me save time and money. And tires 33 or 35 BFG a/t. Not sure on wheels.
Last edited:
Tuff country ez rides are about the best riding lift spring without going custom springs. Rough country springs are harsh.
Like Adam said, I went with TC cause they're softer and flex better than RC. I also didn't buy rear springs, I just bought a shackle flip cause it also makes the rear flex better and ride better than any lift spring other than custom made ones. Will RC work fine? Yes, it just might be a little bit rougher and not flex as well. I ordered my stuff through Offroad Design cause you can just piece together what you want instead of buying a "kit" with stuff you don't always need.
If you want to save some money and buy a RC kit and do a shackle flip in the rear, I'd just buy the RC lift kit that comes with blocks for the rear and just use everything but the blocks and then do a shackle flip in the rear, springs up front. Sorry if I made that confusing.
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Not confusing at all, like I'm said I new to this, and learning. I get alot of information from diff sources and seems like I remember reading alot of post to go R/C. Originally I was leaning toward doing shackle flip, but then I saw the all spring lifts. Thanks for your input
Skip the rear springs and go with a shackle flip in the rear.
Martin
Martin
As far as wheels, are you planning on sticking with the half ton axles you currently have? If so, there is no reason to change wheels.
Martin
Martin
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Ya, Martin I kinda with you on keeping the stock look. I know your bias toward stock look. I have 31s on there now. Prob run the way it is now till I get everything mechanical running tight.
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Its been slow going, due to work, sick and most of all MONEY. But im fine with it. I don't want to rush it. I been getting alot of small tinkering done, will be getting the lower rad hose in on thurs. Had to go with Gates green strip 18 inch, since it is a bit of diffence in radiator size. Plan on hooking up the the water and oil senders and getting the carburetor all hooked up this weekend. Other than that alot is going to have to wait till after the holidays....Santa need to bring me parts...
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Ordered in a Gates Green Stripe lower radiator hose, it fits great! Its Tuff and wont have to worry about it collapsing.
And put interior back together will get back to that next spring.
Figured I might need to drive it when I do get it running...
And put interior back together will get back to that next spring.
Figured I might need to drive it when I do get it running...
Excellent survivor. Nice build.
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Alright now. The holidays are over and seen a few days with OK weather. I got my Blazer Buzz back. See I don't like working on cars when its below 40 , let alone 10 degrees. Anyways did do some shopping and got a few box in yesterday....New brake lines,antifreeze tank, battery shelf, some sweet valve covers, mini starter , O ya and picked up some bumpers from a local fellow with a sweet 76 Jimmy.
So bring on some decent weather this weekend...maybe
So bring on some decent weather this weekend...maybe
It was pretty nice last week. We put new tires on a pivot, and I am glad there was a breeze, or I would have been sweating.
Martin
Martin
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Ya I remember a few nice days then the next day was blistery cold.
Don't feel bad, I haven't done **** to any of my rigs either.
Martin
Martin
