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76 k5 Wheeler build-GIT ER DONE

The bracket goes flush to the plate. Sounds like your disc bracket's hole is too small. Must mount flush.

Exactly what i needed to know, Thank you :thumb:. Ill go see if i cant cut get my buddys dad to cut the hole out a little bigger. Hes got a mill/lathe in his garage and about 40 years of machining experience :pimp:

Edit:Just found the spacers, im an idiot. Life goes on :haha:
 
wow wait I just saw the disk kit you got from indy4x4. Now I have no idea. Never worked with spacers like that sorry
 
wow wait I just saw the disk kit you got from indy4x4. Now I have no idea. Never worked with spacers like that sorry

I sent him a pm asking to check this out. So hopefully he will confirm that i just use the spacers and bolt it all together. Ill get right on this either tomorrow morning before work or after. Fortunately with almost 3 months until blazerfest i dont have to pull overnight wrenching sessions. Not procastinating is awesome sometimes :thumb:
 
It sounds like you're figuring out the primary law of building stuff:

1. You can build it cheap.
2. You can build it fast.
3. You can build it right.

If you try to achieve any more than two of those in any single project, you will fail. I've learned this lesson over many years.

It sounds like you made the right decision to be ready in time for Hollister. If you're short on time and money, you gotta sacrifice the "right" and work with used tires and maybe some parts that aren't useful for the future tube buggy.

Keep on going and see you in July!
 
Yeah, you have to use spacers if it is flat. The DIY4x brackets don't use spacers, but they are bent.

Martin
 
ok heres what we have found out. that the earlier 14b axle had a thicker weld then normal. heres how to fix the problem fast and ease. go to lowes home impovement, buy eight 3/4" long by 1/2" i.d. bushings from them. put the bolts threw the calaper mounting plate, then the bushings go on then bolt to the flange on the axle. if ur want to weld the bushings to the backing plate for extra stringht it will help elimnate the posiblty of bolt sheer.
 
Sounds good, So ill call the guy and just ask him if he has any orbitals with the specs you gave me? Is their any brand/size/model of forklift i should be looking for? Do these things have I.D plates on them to make sure im gettin the right one ooor? Sorry for all the questions, I never would have imagined i'd be talking to guys parting out forklifts :haha: .


They should all have I.D. plates on them... On the Char-Lynn valves there will be a 10 digit number, something like xxx-xxxx-xxx... That is what you'll need to find out what the specs are for the valve...

Mine is a Char-Lynn 241-1004-001, open center, non load reactive, 7.3 c.i. displacement... Has 4 fitting ports and steering shaft...

241 = product line id number
1004 = product id number
00 = relief valve pressure code (none)
1 = engineering change code

Here's an example of a plate and my actual valve... The 291-1043 valve is being ran on a buddies rig and works great...

orbital.jpg

orbital 2.jpg
 
Guess ill have to talk to my buddys dad about cutting it out again. Currently it looks like its got an I.D of 3 7/16 and we are going to need an ID of 3 3/4 for future reference.
 
They should all have I.D. plates on them... On the Char-Lynn valves there will be a 10 digit number, something like xxx-xxxx-xxx... That is what you'll need to find out what the specs are for the valve...

Mine is a Char-Lynn 241-1004-001, open center, non load reactive, 7.3 c.i. displacement... Has 4 fitting ports and steering shaft...

241 = product line id number
1004 = product id number
00 = relief valve pressure code (none)
1 = engineering change code

Here's an example of a plate and my actual valve... The 291-1043 valve is being ran on a buddies rig and works great...
Sweet, Ill start checkin e-bay. Thanks for the guidance so far.
 
How much seat time have you had in this rig yet and are you sure you are going to absolutely NEED the things you listed in your build?
 
Here's a little more info... They used a Char-Lynn 211-1023-002 on some Clark and Hyster forklifts... This valve is a direct replacement for my valve...

Here's some pdf files that show some specs...

Page 4 is the info you're looking for...

http://192.77.147.11/pdf/info/06-323.pdf

The bottom chart on page 4 on this one... The valves on page 5-6 have to high of a displacement... Look at the ones that are in the column under (7.3)...

http://www.vickers.sh.cn/pdfs/06-321.pdf
 
Here's a little more info... They used a Char-Lynn 211-1023-002 on some Clark and Hyster forklifts... This valve is a direct replacement for my valve...

Here's some pdf files that show some specs...

Page 4 is the info you're looking for...

http://192.77.147.11/pdf/info/06-323.pdf

The bottom chart on page 4 on this one... The valves on page 5-6 have to high of a displacement... Look at the ones that are in the column under (7.3)...

http://www.vickers.sh.cn/pdfs/06-321.pdf
:waytogo: , I gotta go to work but ill check those out first thing when i get home. Thanks a ton again
 
I got them bored out to 3 3/4 tonight. Came home and its still too small :doah:. Shoulda rechecked my dads measurements but it is what it is. So im going to grind down the edges where the backing plate is off by about 1/8'' and call it good. Since im not using a backing plate anymore this perfectly round fitting is now a non essential so it should not cause any issues.
 
Grind the inside of the new plates and the backing plate at an angle...

I didnt plan on using a backing plate. And by new plates do you mean the spacers? I could have him rebore them a little bigger but since hes doing it as a favor i dont want to take advantage since i already had him do it once to my specs which were wrong. Also if i go any bigger im going to compromise the bolt holes structural integrity.

Edit: I found a orbital like yours for 400 bucks new :eek: . I need to find me a forklift guy lol.
 
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