On the 14 bolt hub?
There is a seal that has to be pulled off of the rear to get the inner bearing out
There is a seal that has to be pulled off of the rear to get the inner bearing out
CK5
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76 k5 Wheeler build-GIT ER DONE
- Thread starter gotblazers
- Start date
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
yep the 14 bolt SRW hub. Ill go look closer. I must have missed the seal.
Edit:I hammered out the studs to sepearate the hub and rotor. Then i got the seal out from the rear of the hub without any issue and the inner bearing followed. Now the outer bearing seems to have a removable race since it wont come out the top or bottom of the hub. I have already pulled the monster snap ring out.
Im going to start searching but if anyone knows the answer off the top of their head thatd be cool too
Edit #2: According to the pirate 4x4 bible it should fall out once i pull that snap ring yet with a small hammer it didnt even move. Maybe a big hammer is the answer
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andyblack
Registered Loser
You need a little hook. I've used a little prybar with a hook on the end of it before. I think it's called a crow's foot (?).
Booger hook
Crows foot is the open end of a wrench cut off with a hole for using a ratchet
Crows foot is the open end of a wrench cut off with a hole for using a ratchet
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Wheels and tires are paid off finally and i got 200 bucks free to spend on 4x4 stuff now along with another check comin thursday and some side deals i got running for extra cash 
. So with the cash flowing again and my mini loan i took out from the bank of dad paid off i decided to finish off torquing all the beadlocks and cleaning up the wheels and i even found a sheared grade 8 bolt on one of the beadlocks as i went to torque it 
. Im using 15 ft/lbs all around.
On my outer bearing situation i searched a little harder and i think i found the answer
I sprayed some aerokroil where the race meets the hub and hammered the sides a bit to get it in there nice and good. Im going to try scotts idea (from 2002 ) tomorrow and see if i cant get the MOFO out. If all goes well the brakes on the 14 bolt will be finished tomorrow. But with everything being a learning curve i'd be happy to just finish one side tomorrow.
Things are movin right along
. So with the cash flowing again and my mini loan i took out from the bank of dad paid off i decided to finish off torquing all the beadlocks and cleaning up the wheels and i even found a sheared grade 8 bolt on one of the beadlocks as i went to torque it . Im using 15 ft/lbs all around. On my outer bearing situation i searched a little harder and i think i found the answer
I sprayed some aerokroil where the race meets the hub and hammered the sides a bit to get it in there nice and good. Im going to try scotts idea (from 2002
) tomorrow and see if i cant get the MOFO out. If all goes well the brakes on the 14 bolt will be finished tomorrow. But with everything being a learning curve i'd be happy to just finish one side tomorrow. Things are movin right along
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Despite my hardest google searching i havent found any tool named a booger hook
seal puller
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
'
seal puller
Ah ok i have actually used that before at school when i was working on a dif. Very handy tool ill have to see if i dont have one lyin around or pick one up
Despite my hardest google searching i havent found any tool named a booger hook
I didn't want to say anything before but the OP had it right, it is called crows foot.
The seal puller that Chris showed is a good tool, I got one from Harbor freight real cheap.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Ah ok, That would explain why noone knows what it is lol
. These crows foot wrenches look pretty damn useful to. Ill have to pick up a set once i get settled into the new house (find out if the loan is approved on monday). If the loan is approved im going to have a 2 story house in Hollister MINUTES from Hollister Hills with a second driveway and a monster dirt area that my dad has already designed ''Gregs truck space'' . That means im goin wheelin every damn weekend 
. Got my fingers crossed Monday it all goes well
You buying a house or your dad?
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
, my dad of course. Im only 18 (19 in 5 days ). He insisted upon our new house having a ton of space for us to keep all our trucks and give me room to expand with my goals and keep spare parts/vehicles around. So its a sweet deal for me if it goes through with me being only minutes from my favorite wheeling spot i can go wheeling every weekend for next to nothing 
. Also Scott is the shet. Tried out his idea and the bearing/race came out easy as pie
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Cool. If it gets too hot in the hills we can crash at your place with the AC
So let's see some pics. All this parts gathering and I don't to see my axles under something.
So let's see some pics. All this parts gathering and I don't to see my axles under something.
Despite my hardest google searching i havent found any tool named a booger hook
I was thinking of a different tool, maybe booger hook is just what my dad called it? Lol
Glad you got it done.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
updated budget
Things that need to be addressed
Axle swap-400 bucks
1.Install 14BFF rear disc i already have
2.Move spring perches if needed
3.Already have spring plates thanks to Chevysmith
4.Weld front and rear + drive flanges in the front,will be replaced with a spool and arb as soon as possible. Drive flanges arent included in above price.
5.New brake lines and u-joints
85.43/400 spent
Steering-600
170/600 spent
Transfercase/tranny=20 to reseal it. And a whole focking lot of work to get that 300 pound monster back in place. I really want to do a floorshifter set up for the tranny but its not a necessity so we'll see
0/20 spent
MISC. 200
-Gas tank guard,Few grade 8 bolts into the frame and a piece of 1/8 in steel and call it good.
-Pull front and rear bumpers and weld some thick ass steel in between the 2 frame rails and add a recovery point to it front and rear
0/200 spent
1050/1800 without expenses
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
I got one disk installed today. I torqued the inner hubnut pre load to 50 then 25 and the outer nut to 80 and folded over a tab. Axle shaft re-installed all bearings fully greased and re-installed.
Finished adding protectant to the sidewalls of my new to me 7 year old tires. Looks way better and should really help my sidewalls condition when it comes time to hit the trails.
edit: I also measured the spring perches on the 12 bolt in the rear of my 76 k5 currently and the current spring perch position and found it to be the same. Both axles had 2.5'' wide spring perches and the outside to outside (easier than center and achieves the same goal) was 40 and 1/8'' IIRC regardless it was the same so it should work without modification. Ironically i measured it after i bought 2 grinder and 2 cutoff wheels but im sure ill find a use for those. And i picked up a seal puller today while i was at kragens picking up some junk. Thanks for the tip on that norcal im sure it will be a life saver in the future.
Finished adding protectant to the sidewalls of my new to me 7 year old tires. Looks way better and should really help my sidewalls condition when it comes time to hit the trails.
edit: I also measured the spring perches on the 12 bolt in the rear of my 76 k5 currently and the current spring perch position and found it to be the same. Both axles had 2.5'' wide spring perches and the outside to outside (easier than center and achieves the same goal) was 40 and 1/8'' IIRC regardless it was the same so it should work without modification. Ironically i measured it after i bought 2 grinder and 2 cutoff wheels but im sure ill find a use for those
. And i picked up a seal puller today while i was at kragens picking up some junk. Thanks for the tip on that norcal im sure it will be a life saver in the future.
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gotblazers
1/2 ton status
So i gotta get started on this full hydraulic set up someday. Looking at hi-steer arms
1.Ballistic is the shet but i refuse to deal with them
2.Artec has awesome stuff but the price is through the roof
Any reason these wouldnt be just as good as the hi-steer arms listed above?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=947915&highlight=dana+60+steer+arms
Would push me over budget still but looks like a pretty cool set up at a fair price. Looks like all i would need is heims to mate the tie rods to the hydraulic ram.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=923776&highlight=dana+60+steer+arms
A fair price,But still nowhere near the 4wheel parts guys
http://www.kore4x4customs.com/index...category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54
1.Ballistic is the shet but i refuse to deal with them
2.Artec has awesome stuff but the price is through the roof
Any reason these wouldnt be just as good as the hi-steer arms listed above?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=947915&highlight=dana+60+steer+arms
Would push me over budget still but looks like a pretty cool set up at a fair price. Looks like all i would need is heims to mate the tie rods to the hydraulic ram.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=923776&highlight=dana+60+steer+arms
A fair price,But still nowhere near the 4wheel parts guys
http://www.kore4x4customs.com/index...category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54
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I have those 4wheelsupply arms. Mine have the 10deg angle milled into them, but you wouldnt need that for full hydro. Its a beefy arm for sure.
Couple things though.... It didnt have enough of a taper seat for the cone nuts to seat good, so i had to do that. But for 100bucks to my door im not too worried.
Couple things though.... It didnt have enough of a taper seat for the cone nuts to seat good, so i had to do that. But for 100bucks to my door im not too worried.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
What kind of a drill bit would you use to taper it down further or would you use or a drill bit ooor
. I'll get some ordered asap for sure though,Looks like a great hi steer arm to start out with for my full hydro set up. Thanks for the tip.
I used one of these guys.
COuntersink bit
COuntersink bit
