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77 Blazer - The Beast build

Picked this 77 Blazer from NY today (I am in Philly) Factory 400ci smb. CURRENT STATUS 468 BB with 700R4 & cast iron cased NP205 Front is a Dana 60 and Rear is 14 Bolt Seems to be 4.88 geared 20" Weld Racing rims & 39.5 4" Suspension & 2" Body lift
I need to do that with mine but the amount of work to do it is highly demotivational.
Honestly it wasn't bad. I took 4 days, maybe 5, and worked between 2 and 6 hours each day. I hammered the LONG screwdriver under the lining and pried it upward. Alot of it came off very easily....the rest came off with a little fighting. The wood chisel also came in handy. If you start to do it this method, and not chemical or wire brush method, you will get the hang of it. I was shocked how easy it was.

I plan to redo the entire thing but with LineX. I want to talk to them to see what I can do to ensure the lining stays affixed FULLY! That, however, is months down the road.
 
I think I have a problem and may need professional help. Found an 85 K5 online that was being parted out. Originally wanted only the B-pillars but once there the guy said he was scrapping the rest of the body. Soooo, being a K5 addict I went all in for the roof and a 31 gallon gas tank. Was fun driving home with the roof on top of my Soob. Gas tank is in fantastic shape. Roof is 85% fantastic and the B-pillars are 90% (rot on the bottom but the jams and Sills are solid. $220 for everything!
Powder coating the gas tank and keeping the other parts for when needed!

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More quarter panel work today. I am going to use the inside panels from the donor "B" Pillars once I get the quarter panels replaced. I drilled the spot welds for the existing interior "B" pillar panels and removed them. What I got to see was the inside of the B pillar which is something I have always wondered about. I attached pictures for those that wanted to see inside the B pillars. Plan to sand blast the interior and paint with POR15.

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March 28, 2021

Rainy day so I did some small project work. Painted the body mounting washers and some thru body mounting bolts. POR15 is good stuff but it sticks to everything and it melts vinyl gloves.

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Shout out to the crew at Vintage Air in San Antonio! Picked up the full treatment!

SBC Front Runner kit with the chrome alternator, compressor and related toys (pulleys, hoses and polished brackets)

100% new AC system with new controls, heater core, evaporator, lines and under dash mixing box

850 Watt Monster electric fan and related connectors!

Now I Just need a new engine and finished K5 to put it inside!

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Another round of parts dropped off to be powder coated.

Tailgate Support - Zinc Coated then Powder Coated
Lower Windshield Panel
Lower cross brace below front grill
Left and Right Battery Trays (For Dual Battery Setup)
Inside Fuel Fill Cover

Figured the powder coating for the tailgate support would last much longer than POR15 and/or epoxy primer. Should be back in about 10 days.

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B Pillar inside skins done. I'd guess 60 spot welds between both donor parts. It was Hard hard work drilling them out. These donor skins will go on the quarter panels I'm preparing for installation. More work than I anticipated.

I plan to have these skins sand blasted then I'll POR15 the inside surface and primer the outside. Full paint to follow later.

Next should be prepping one of the two quarter panels. Gonna have then sand blasted to remove paint but more importantly the heavy corrosion in the hard to reach places.

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Removed the radiator and condenser today. Guess I am committed...no going back now. The ZombieK5 is officially immobile.

Is there any sexy way to remove the antifreeze? What a mess.

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There’s not. I’m dreading dumping mine and then trying to dispose of it. Dang nine act play getting vouchers and having to go during set hours.
 
April 5, 2021
GAS CAN SEALING

I obtained a used 31 gallon tank that will replace my smaller gas tank. The 31 gallon had about 1/2 a gallon of old gas/kerosene in side and the walls were covered with varnish (I forgot to get a "Before" photo). Ordered the POR15 gas tank sealing kit and went to work.

1. I first emptied the old gas and jammed old rags inside to absorb as much gunk as possible.
2. Partilly filled the tank with dish soap and water. Sloshed the tank around and let it sit overnight.
3. Drained the tank and fully rinsed out the soap
4. Poured in the first POR15 step which was 1 quart of de-greaser and 1 quart of warm water. I also put a 4' section of chain-link chain inside to help break off any deposits. Taped the fill pipe and sending unit hole with really good Duct Tape. Spent 30 minutes sloshing the solution around, rotating the tank so each side was facing downward for several minutes. Rinsed out the solution and repeated it again with the 2nd bottle of de-greaser.
5. Drained the tank and fully rinsed out of the de-greaser solution
6. Added the Metal Prep solution which basically etches the steel. During this process I again sloshed the solution around for the prescribed time making sure each side was facing downward for several minutes. Drained the solution and FULLY rinsed out any remaining solution.
7. Used a heat gun to dry the inside of the tank. The interior is required to be FULLY DRY. This took about an hour to complete then I let it sit overnight. In the morning I let the heat gun, on low setting, blow into the fill tube for another hour. The tank was dry after this.
8. Poured the quart of Sealer into the tank and taped shut the fill tube and the sending unit hole. I spent the next 40 minutes slowly sloshing the tank around to make sure every part of the tank was covered with sealer.
9. THE HARDEST PART was next. Drain the remaining sealer from the tank. Unfortunately K5 tanks do not have a drain hole and there is no easy way to to drain the sealer due to the way the sending unit hole is situated. With the tank upside down, you have to spent a long time waiting for the sealer to collect near the sending unit hole. You then need to lean the tank from side to side to slowly get the unused sealer out of the tank. It even helps to slide the tank vigorously back and forth to force the unused sealer out of the tank. I supported the tank on an old steel bed frame that allowed me to slide the tank back and forth with a large metal tray underneath to collect the unused sealer. Still made a mess and part of my backyard is covered with silver paint.

After more than one hour of draining sealant I left the tank to fully dry. I still managed to get a small pooled area of sealant in one of the corners. Instruction say to be carefull to avoid looming but without being able to get my hand/arm inside the tank it was inevitable. We will see what happens after it all dries. After the first 24 hours I can say that the sealant dried HARD with a shiny appearance. The instructions say to wait 96 hours (4 days) before putting gas inside.

Now, need to wait the 96 hours and take the tank to be powder coated!

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OLD Gas Tank Removal

I have zero idea how anyone without a body lift can disconnect the lines from a K5 fuel tank. Maybe cut a hole in the bed area?

Spent yesterday removing my existing gas tank. Overall it was easy but not painless. Thank God the connections were not corroded. The issue was getting to them. My 4" body lift allowed me to get my arms in there to unscrew the brass connectors. Flare nut wrenches came in handy again. Dropping it was another story and we won't get into my NON-OSHA approved method. Let's just say the tank is out and I didn't start a fire.

Any thoughts on how the frame looks? Seems to be surface rust but I need to get my vacuum in there to clean up the area.



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Fuel pump access cuts are pretty common for these trucks. When guys do EFI, it’s a simple way to drop in the fuel pump without removing the tank
 
Back to the front of the Blazer. Removed front wheel wells and started to tear down the engine. Firewall on passenger side looks OK. The driver side is a mess. Lots of metal work here. On another thread we are discussing what BB engine I have and how to rebuild it better. This is just starting to get fun!!

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Starting to get the donor quarter panels ready for primer. Decided to test fit the tailgate support and the tail light bracket. After some fidgeting the stars aligned and THEY FIT!!!

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Rear Wheel Well removal. On the 77 K5 we went to work and managed to remove the bolts without any significant issues. A previous owner had them out at some point and use bad quality nuts which required a vice grip to hold the nuts while we backed the bolts out. After removing some seam sealer we use a mallet to knock the wheel well down towards the tire. After a few whacks it dropped down and they were pulled free....easy peasy. Unfortuanely we found the bed steel was badly rusted and it will need to be replaced.

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While you have everything apart I’d suggest the access hatch for the tank. It’s around $70 and it’s really a good mod for getting to the top of the tank. I’m a fat ass and have put all of my weight on my door with zero issues. In my build page there’s a link and photos. It’s just a marine hatch assembly and you can find them on Amazon.
Work is looking good! You’re way more motivated than me lol
 
While you have everything apart I’d suggest the access hatch for the tank. It’s around $70 and it’s really a good mod for getting to the top of the tank. I’m a fat ass and have put all of my weight on my door with zero issues. In my build page there’s a link and photos. It’s just a marine hatch assembly and you can find them on Amazon.
Work is looking good! You’re way more motivated than me lol
Looking that up now. I was going to post a question about doing a hatch! THANKS!!!
 
Merrick’s garage has a you tube video about it. That’s where I got the idea from.
 
Got more stuff back from powder coating. These guys are awesome.

The tailgate mount was zinc costed first then powder coated.

Also did left and right side battery trays, window vent panel, lower grill filler and two small quarter panel underside pieces. Spending small fortune at this place.

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