77 Blazer - The Beast build

[ZombieK5]

Major work done over past few days. Transfer case out, transmission out and one of the two quarter panels had most of the paint removed.

Transfer Case: As originally thought, it is a slip yoke eliminated NP205 with an ORD Twin Stick. Plans include rebuilding case and installing modified shift rails for front wheel drive.

Transmission 700r4: Came out with a fight. Fluid was nice and red. Pan plug has very little metal paste on the magnet. Fluid smelled normal. I'm gonna keep this and see where it takes me. Might replace the pan and I will definitely clean up the exterior!

Quarter Panel Work: Made progress with the driver side and got all the paint off the exterior panel. Gonna leave door jam and all interior rusted sections for the sand blasting guy. Found some rust thru holes. Will weld in new sections and weld over any small screw holes.

April 21st should see the engine coming out. Until then it will be body panel work

 

[nvrenuf]

If you don't intend to use the mechanical speedo cable adapter on the 205 (rusty piece above the VSS sensor) someone on eBay sells a billet aluminum plug to replace the adapter so you wont get water/dirt in the tcase.

 

[skunked]

If you don't intend to use the mechanical speedo cable adapter on the 205 (rusty piece above the VSS sensor) someone on eBay sells a billet aluminum plug to replace the adapter so you wont get water/dirt in the tcase.

ORD sells them as well.

 

[ZombieK5]

Quarter Panel Work today. Needed some metal pieces to fix a few rust holes on the donor Driver side quarter panel. Took the pieces off the old quarter panels still on the Blazer. Even those cut pieces had significant rust. Truly is a cancer.

Removing the Carb tomorrow in prep for Wednesday's engine removal!

 

[ZombieK5]

Wellz engine came out withlut any issues. I also got it 80% disassembled in anticipation of taking it to the machine shop. Biggest issue so far was shearing off a bolt inside the harmonic balancer. Little nut and some welding and in got the broken bolt out.

Making my list for new parts and parta to rebuild can't wait to get started putting it together.

New parts:
New bearings (depends on crank turning)
KB hyper pistons (depends on bore to clean it up)
ARP rod bolts
New piston rings (moly coated rings) Hydraulic roller cam new roller lifters
New timing set cam bolts w/lock plate
New 1 piece pushrods
Brodix Oval Port Heads full roller rocker arms (steel)
Edelbrock PF4 EFI Induction
New Fuel Pump
New Pan and Timing Cover
New Valve Covers
New ARP Head Bolts
New Flex Plate and New Harmonic Balancer

And more parts I'm sure

 

[ZombieK5]

Just a little before and after engine removal photo....

Wish all cars were like this. Remove fenders and radiator support and the engine. Unibody is a communist plot.

 

[ZombieK5]

I gutted the dashboard today. There is no way that all of these wires were included on a 77 Blazer.

One part looked like an OBDII port.

 

[ZombieK5]

Got the BBC off to the machinist today. Going with all new internals!

The first stage will be getting the short block complete. After he block is inspected we will get all the surfaces honed, bore out the cylinders (either to .04 or .06 - not sure yet). The old crank had a 4" stroke and we will be putting in 4.250" stroker crank. Can't wait for this to get back!

Some of the parts included:

--Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI Traditional 4150-Style Kit #35830 Chevy Big-Block Oval Port
--Callies BBP425-CS 4.25" Stroke BBC Crankshaft
--ATI Super Damper
--TCI Flexplate BBC Internal 399273
--Callies Compstar Rods 6.385 BBC #CSB6385ES3B9AH

We have not decided on the exact features for the heads but will be getting Brodix heads with 2.18/1.88 valves, full roller Rockers and one piece push rods. The cam will be a roller cam but the brand and profile have not been decided.

We will also be going with forged pistons but the brand and type will be decided later. We are looking to go flat top if only to allow me to use regular gas.

 

[ZooMad75]

That black connector is a GM OBD1 diagnostic connector. I suspect at one time somebody had a GM TBI setup in there.

 

[6872xtc]

I really think that someone put a '77 VIN plate on a '89 or newer Blazer. The power mirrors, ECM tray, OBD port, sloped hood..
As long as you get everything registered, it doesn't matter much , as far as I know, but..
I didn't want to say this earlier, but things keep showing up that make me think this about your truck.

 

[ZombieK5]

I really think that someone put a '77 VIN plate on a '89 or newer Blazer. The power mirrors, ECM tray, OBD port, sloped hood..
As long as you get everything registered, it doesn't matter much , as far as I know, but..
I didn't want to say this earlier, but things keep showing up that make me think this about your truck.

Frame VIN # matched VIN plate. I thought that too at the start of this.

Doors are not original either and the power mirrors were never functional from what I can tell.

 

[6872xtc]

Ahh, I see. I can tell you that my '90 Jimmy is on a '79 frame. But I left the VIN tag alone on the body when I swapped it over. I have the title to the '79 K5 that I got the frame out of too.
Yours just makes me wonder with some of the things that you found. Doesn't really make much difference as far as I know.
Keep up with the progress, don't let me distract you!

 

[Gibby56]

Your dedication is inspiring. That rust would have scared me away

 

[ZombieK5]

QUARTER PANEL UPDATE

In preparation for replacing the quarter panels I started by welding a series of "alignment arms".

The first arms (four total) are more or less hangers that will give me the correct height for the quarter panels and they will limit how far inward they will travel. In the below photos one of the arms has silver paint. They will allow me rest the quarter panels until I can get the "B" Pillar in position and tack welded in place. Once it's tack welded I will put into place the long cross bar (has black paint on it in the photos). This will ensure I have the exact position for the holes to match up to the removable top.

ALL OF THE ABOVE renovations start as soon as I install the new tailgate support. Since that has to be done firsts so the quarter panels have a place to mount to. Once I cut it out the back of the body will have nothing to support it. I placed a series of wood boards between the frame and the back edge along with some thin steel shims to make sure there was no gaps to allow the body to sag.

I am also putting a steel bar high up the B Pillars that will be bolted to the top seat belt mount holes to keep the body from shifting inward. I will drop two steel bars down from that cross bar to again keep the body from sagging.

Any other bracing needed?

Should work but if anyone has ideas I am open ears.

 

[sweetk30]

bed frame angle iron = bad idea . welding it it might look good but the weld pops off super easy .

otherwise go get some square tube and make slide in tubes and weld the ends or drill hold and weld nut and make pinch bolt setup .

 

[ZombieK5]

I am using using Sq tube and heavy angle iron for actual structural support bracing. The bed rails in photos are primarily for guidance to square up the bed rail holes.

There are two posts that will allow me to guide the quarter panel into place. That series of rails are bolted together. The only weld is at the base. I had the welder cranked up and got full penetration.

When I finish the structural braces described that affix to the top seat belt mounts they will be heavy angle iron and/or Sq tube. Those will be bolted/welded to the existing floorboard with heavy steel plate. I will post photos of those braces to see what you think.

Do you have any suggestions on some bracing that I may miss?

 

[ZombieK5]

bed frame angle iron = bad idea . welding it it might look good but the weld pops off super easy .

otherwise go get some square tube and make slide in tubes and weld the ends or drill hold and weld nut and make pinch bolt setup .

Also adding a third piece to prevent the pictured support from moving downward with the qtr panel weight. This will be Bolted in place. Once bolted down I till hit it with a tack weld to further prevent movement

 

[ZombieK5]

bed frame angle iron = bad idea . welding it it might look good but the weld pops off super easy .

otherwise go get some square tube and make slide in tubes and weld the ends or drill hold and weld nut and make pinch bolt setup .

Here is the cross support between the top seat belt mounting holes. Heavy angle iron and the bent pieces where the mounting bolt is located is gusseted. Next step is a single upward post to support the roof where the dome light is and two downward post secured against the floor surface.

 

[ZombieK5]

bed frame angle iron = bad idea . welding it it might look good but the weld pops off super easy .

otherwise go get some square tube and make slide in tubes and weld the ends or drill hold and weld nut and make pinch bolt setup .

Wanted to get your opinion. What do you think about keeping the removable top ON and using it to keep the front cab from shifting. My biggest issue will be matching the cut B Pillar with the existing B Pillar. That single cut is critical for door frame geometry. My thought is go get the cut as close as possible and maybe cut the donor qtr panel B Pillar a touch short. I'd then use 1/8" plates to weld up the structural "rib" inside the B Pillar. I'll have the new tailgate support already installed so I can slide the back of the qtr panel onto it and bolt it down

Thoughts?

Photo of rib attached

 

[ZombieK5]

First update in quite a while. Work on the rebuild stopped after our basement is received serious damage after Hurricane Ida through the Northeast. Right now my garage is front-to-back and top to bottom. All of my blazer stuff and everything from the basement while we effect repairs.

The engine rebuild is coming along slowly and the mechanic is only able to work on it during evening hours. The block has been finished and it should be painted this week. I am waiting for the Callie forged crankshaft to be balanced. The rods and pistons are all balanced and ready to go.

I verbally committed to the 1977 Blazer body you see in these pictures. It apparently came from California and is currently located about 200 miles from me. I committed to a $3,000 sales price. It apparently has no rust, the benefit of a California body, except for a small spot on the window frame on the driver side lower corner. That of course can be easily fixed. Any thoughts or criticisms?