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77 Blazer - The Beast build

Picked this 77 Blazer from NY today (I am in Philly) Factory 400ci smb. CURRENT STATUS 468 BB with 700R4 & cast iron cased NP205 Front is a Dana 60 and Rear is 14 Bolt Seems to be 4.88 geared 20" Weld Racing rims & 39.5 4" Suspension & 2" Body lift
That's a tough call for me because I can find decent sheetmetal somewhat easier than you can in the east, for less money. However, I know for a fact that time is money, and buying a tub that may only need 50% of the overall work done, can save so much labor time, as well as materials, that a $3K price can get eclipsed quickly by trying to save some up front.

You have some exciting things in the works for your truck, for sure!
 
I was introduced to a digital designer that creates renderings of trucks and cars. I told him what I had planned for the Blazer and, while working with me, he came up with these images. I have to say this is 96% what I have visioned. With the new body I obtained today I would hope that by the end of next summer the progress should be noticeable and substantial. I really like how this turned out and this will be one nice truck!

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11/17/2021

I thought I should make an update to my build page. Back on the 17th I drove to Northern Connecticut and picked up the Blazer body I found online. After inspecting the truck thoroughly I realized it was a much better body than first anticipated. There was literally almost zero structural rust. There was a area on the lower front windshield frame on the driver side that was rusted through. This is a known problem for some Blazers and to be expected in older bodies. I luckily have enough windshield frame sections from parted out Blazers to fix the issue. The Rockers are in exceptional condition. There is some damage on the lower edges from the body being transported from California but those can be hammered out and properly painted. The tailgate support seems to have some warping and I will detail that in a later post. I am pretty sure it can be hammered out or it is not a significant issue. There is a dent on the roof where the removable top meets the front cab. It has a small crease which will make fixing a little more difficult but again it is only a dent and not a rust through. Overall I am very happy with the body. Over the winter I plan to remove the existing body from the frame. I am reluctantly going to remove the roll cage and will be debating whether to install a new one. The reason I love the existing roll cage in the K5 now is that it is thru the body and welded to the frame. The DIY4X roll cage looks nice but it is mounted to the body itself. I like the idea of the Rollercage being welded to the frame for greater structural support but it also creates some issues. I will make a final decision on that at a later time.

On another note, the body appears to have the original floor-mounted high-beam switch. That is definitely a keeper. No better way to confuse a millennial then using a floor-mounted high-beam switch.

As always, any thoughts or comments are appreciated.

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Can you cut the cage right below the floor and then use upper and lower cage plates to put it back in? I thought that was why some cages mounted to the floor, as it was on the installer to finish tying it to the frame with plates or not.
I know that I have seen guys on here tie them to the frame with plates, can't remember which build threads.
 
It looks like the cage passes through the dash so it won’t be easy getting it back in the new tub. Cage plates at the floor are the way to go if you choose to repurpose the cage.
 
It looks like the cage passes through the dash so it won’t be easy getting it back in the new tub. Cage plates at the floor are the way to go if you choose to repurpose the cage.
The existing cage mounts too far inward where is located in bed section in my thoughts. I also don't like how they put it thru the body. Horrible welding job. It's another $800+ for the DIY4X cage with the extra bed section. I can take my time to get it right.

Another part of me doesn't want to cut up this new body. It's really nice and once I deal with the surface rust and get it painted I'll be less inclined to cut holes... But then again I'm old and can't take the truck with me!
 
I know rust free trucks in your area are rare, but generally K5's are not rare. They made hundreds of thousands of them. Do what you want with it now. Don't save it for the next guy. That's just silly.

Cage that sucker.
 
That new body is sweet!! So are the renderings.

cage it, link it, have fun with it
 
Black Friday shopping on Facebook Marketplace! $150 and they look unused. Out of a 2014 Tahoe. SCORE!! Just ordered the front and rear brackets from Merricks Garage. Just need to find some E46 M3 BMW manual fronts that are cheap so I can get them refurbished.

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Update on the front seats. I found a pair of manual front seats from a BMW 135i Coupe. These seats apparently have a near-identical form function as the E46 M3 seats. The seats did have some damage which is to be expected. I just dropped them off at the upholsterer who is going to completely refurbish them. I probably won't say how much it going to cost to avoid ridicule however we decided on using some very nice leather to replace the existing covers. The bolsters will be solid black but the center will be deep red. I went with the a more expensive leather because the colors were exactly what I wanted. The upholsterer is also going to reinforce the leather covers so they should last significantly longer. They should be done sometime in February.

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UPDATE 2/4/2022

Lots of activity since my last update. We got the engine done and it looks beautiful. I have a post going over on the technical Forum which is quite extensive.


I posted below a before-and-after photo. Quite a difference. I just got my rock crawlers in from DIY4X and they look really nice. I guess I won't really know if they fit until I get the project completed.

I shipped my steering wheel off be restored with leather that will match the seats. The seats should be back in two weeks. I really can't wait to see them.

Next on the agenda is to cut the existing body off of the frame and start making preparations to have the axles rebuilt and the frame sand blasted and painted.

I am planning on having the body chemical dipped and stripped which should save me dozens and dozens of preparation hours.

I have look over the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 installation instructions and that looks like a major project in and of itself.

I'm starting to look to look over steering options. I have a PSE gearbox but I am not sure what to do about the rest of the mechanism. I'm trying to find a rebuild kit for the PSC gearbox. If anybody knows the proper kit, let me know.

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You can send your box out to them and they will rebuild it. Dunno what it costs, but shouldn't be too crazy.
 
You can send your box out to them and they will rebuild it. Dunno what it costs, but shouldn't be too crazy.
They are not difficult to rebuild I am just not sure if PSC uses different seals and a Rings Inside the Box. You can find the rebuild kits fairly easy. I probably just need to contact PSE.
 
Those seats look great!
I believe you were wise to go with the new body, the savings in time will be tremendous.
 
Started work for the 2022 season. Started cutting the old body off. Got all the way up to the front seat area and also got the roof off. 3 Sawzall blades and 7 cutting discs. Neighbors gonna hate me so I zip tied Bob to the back to wave at them!!

If anyone needs any odd Body parts let me know!

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