Mr. Pickle
1/2 ton status
Maybe take 20" off the front of the bed (I think it will be right above where u shortened the frame) and then it should line up like before. Just a thought.
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77 k20 budget build. looking for tips
- Thread starter Underpowered
- Start date
Underpowered
Registered Member
the issue i am seeing with that is yes i am remvoing 20" of frame, but adding 12" longer leafs so moving teh wheelbase back 6" of that 20, so only moving the wheelbase 14" or so, most likely closer to 15" when i am done with the shackle flip. but with teh longer springs, since the bed is already bobbed to cut at teh 52" hangers, i will basically have about 8" of frame just hanging out there after the bed. no matter what i do, the bed just won't look right, i am gonna try to basically box in teh rear though, and sort of hide teh frame with a bumper, by buildign my bumper around teh frame instead of behind it.
Mr. Pickle
1/2 ton status
Ah, copy that, forgot about ur new springs. Mabye this is why so many guys rund bed-less after doing this many mods 
Underpowered
Registered Member
most likely. all would be good if i had known i was replacing the springs before i bobbed the bed. would have made things much simpler.
i am still gonna see if there is any way to keep the bed and still make it look decent, if not the whole thing will just be scrapped.
i am still gonna see if there is any way to keep the bed and still make it look decent, if not the whole thing will just be scrapped.
Underpowered
Registered Member
the cut lines, about 22 1/4 inches being removed. there were two sets of holes in teh frame, went just to the outside of each set is why it is kind of an odd number.
truck now officially in two pieces
removed section
all pulled back together
frame twist anyone?
truck now officially in two pieces
removed section
all pulled back together
frame twist anyone?
Underpowered
Registered Member
first look at the new, improved wheel base! have not measured it yet, but somewhere around 114"
at ride hieght right now, shackles are verticle, but i figure i still have a bed(of some sort), tools, and fuel tank to still go back on so at true ride height, they should be pretty close to where i want them to be.
(yes i know there are only 2 bolts, it was a mock up before i decided on a final position.)
shackles are now at the very back of the frame, so i don't have any to cut off really.
at ride hieght right now, shackles are verticle, but i figure i still have a bed(of some sort), tools, and fuel tank to still go back on so at true ride height, they should be pretty close to where i want them to be.
(yes i know there are only 2 bolts, it was a mock up before i decided on a final position.)
shackles are now at the very back of the frame, so i don't have any to cut off really.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
did you fishplate the frame or make a z cut? its not going to be very strong if you just welded it back together
Underpowered
Registered Member
not yet, but it will be plated. due to space limitation, i am making small fish plates for it, but a rather large gusset to go on teh under side of the frame, as well as one on top as well.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
that should keep the frame from coming apart at the seam. do you have a local metal shop that you are buying your supplies from?
Underpowered
Registered Member
not really. we have a full machine shop at teh factory where i work at so i can make nearly any thing i want. as for the actual material, we scrap alot of steel at work, so anything in the scrap barrel is free game, and for the most part it is still great steel and usually in some larger pieces as well.
but if i do need to acually buy any material, there is a metal shop about a mile up the road from me that i work with alot of times.
but if i do need to acually buy any material, there is a metal shop about a mile up the road from me that i work with alot of times.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
you can't beat free steel especially when scrap prices get high again. as for having a metal shop right down the road... all i got to say is it must be nice! any updates though?
Underpowered
Registered Member
it is very nice. especially when the owner is a decent good buddy who lets you use any equipment he has free of charge, and gets me steel for cheap. nice to have good friends who like to help each other out.
no updates though, other than i think i am gonna buy longer shackles and ditch teh stock ones, then re-mount my hangers so i can fully utilize the flex i am gonna get from the 63" springs. due to crappy weather and family stuff during the holiday weekend no work got done. but if it ever quits raining, i have a full weekend ahead to devote to the truck.
no updates though, other than i think i am gonna buy longer shackles and ditch teh stock ones, then re-mount my hangers so i can fully utilize the flex i am gonna get from the 63" springs. due to crappy weather and family stuff during the holiday weekend no work got done. but if it ever quits raining, i have a full weekend ahead to devote to the truck.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
if you want beef when you get new shackles get kerts UDSR shackles. i ordered a set for my K10 that im still waiting on along with some greasable bolts. so far they are the strongest looking shackles with 3/8 sides and a 5/16 center gusset, i doubt they'll be broken.
Underpowered
Registered Member
i may end up seeing about building some. only issue there is the bushings and such. i have not fully decided yet. but i figure if i am gonna do it, now is the time before i permanently mount the hangers.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
kert has a fab kit like that. http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm its part # [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]00355k im sure you could get the flat steel from work. it has everything else there you need to make the shackles
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Underpowered
Registered Member
not bad for only 15 a kit. may have to do that.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
if you don't like the fab kit from kert, copperhead fab also sells fab kits. http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=catview&cat=Bushings
Underpowered
Registered Member
i am sure i can come up with something, if i don't just buy a set of shackles. i am hoping to get it pretty much back up and going for the most part this weekend, so looks like shackles are gonna have to wait anyhow. i may set it up for 6" shackles, and run the stock for now until i buy some, then it will be a simple easy swap on teh shackles.
Underpowered
Registered Member
more headway made today.
decided on a final place for the shackles to reside. moved forward and up from where you last saw them at. decided to try and get a lower ride height from them, and i am much happier with the shackle angle now. and i think i have room to go with a longer shackle if i wanted to as well, without screwing to much up.
new shackle angle at ride height
at full droop
and the pinion angle looks pretty good to me as well, maybe a little steep.
got a piece of 1/8" aluminum to bolt to the frame for a temp bed, so i have something other than the frame to mount things to.
then i started on teh Drive shaft. stock was 59 1/2" long, from teh u-joint to the end of the spines. i needed a minimum of 41 1/2", which is from the yoke to the very end of the slip on the t-case. the max i could go is 47", which would bottom out the slip. so i am making the shaft 45 1/4" long. split the difference, so at ride height, the splines should be at the center of the slip, allowing for both up and down travel without binding. so that means i need to lose 14 1/4" of shaft. easy enough, right?
the shaft as is
to shorten it, i am gonna make a cut approx. 1/8" deep around the weld here
after the cut, simply used a cutoff wheel in a 4 1/2" grinder
then after a few blows with a rubber mallet, i am left with this
notice the inner sleeve on the spline section? once i cut the shaft to my desired length, that will slide back in and help to align the new shortened shaft.
waiting on access to a shop so i can cut and weld the shaft, as i have no means of cutting it and keepign it square at my house.
decided on a final place for the shackles to reside. moved forward and up from where you last saw them at. decided to try and get a lower ride height from them, and i am much happier with the shackle angle now. and i think i have room to go with a longer shackle if i wanted to as well, without screwing to much up.
new shackle angle at ride height
at full droop
and the pinion angle looks pretty good to me as well, maybe a little steep.
got a piece of 1/8" aluminum to bolt to the frame for a temp bed, so i have something other than the frame to mount things to.
then i started on teh Drive shaft. stock was 59 1/2" long, from teh u-joint to the end of the spines. i needed a minimum of 41 1/2", which is from the yoke to the very end of the slip on the t-case. the max i could go is 47", which would bottom out the slip. so i am making the shaft 45 1/4" long. split the difference, so at ride height, the splines should be at the center of the slip, allowing for both up and down travel without binding. so that means i need to lose 14 1/4" of shaft. easy enough, right?
the shaft as is
to shorten it, i am gonna make a cut approx. 1/8" deep around the weld here
after the cut, simply used a cutoff wheel in a 4 1/2" grinder
then after a few blows with a rubber mallet, i am left with this
notice the inner sleeve on the spline section? once i cut the shaft to my desired length, that will slide back in and help to align the new shortened shaft.
waiting on access to a shop so i can cut and weld the shaft, as i have no means of cutting it and keepign it square at my house.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
thats a damn good way to shorten the rear shaft, does it have a 1350 joint at the axle and a 1310 joint at the transfer case or is it a flange on the transfer case? your shackle angle looks alot better too and your pinion angle don't look severe. if you have an angle finder you can throw it on your rear axle and see what the angle of it is. i think anything more than about 15 degrees is alot
