77 K5 Just had to do it

[Bent77]

No harm in drilling and tapping then just plugs. Just a thought

 

[Capt Ron]

I have just been chewing on some small boring stuff but I figured I better throw something out so you guys do not forget about me.

 

[ZooMad75]

Yay! Progress! Keep it up.

 

[mrk5]

I'm posting here so I can remember to keep tabs on this thread.

 

[Capt Ron]

Life and weather has impeded my progress but I did get another baby step tonight. I got my clutch/pressure plate bolted up.
I do have a question for the better informed. The two fuel lines shown in the pics, bottom line is supply, top line is return?

 

[Larry]

Life and weather has impeded my progress but I did get another baby step tonight. I got my clutch/pressure plate bolted up.
I do have a question for the better informed. The two fuel lines shown in the pics, bottom line is supply, top line is return?

View attachment 296133

The return line has the regulator on it so the top is return and bottom is the supply

 

[Capt Ron]

The return line has the regulator on it so the top is return and bottom is the supply

Thanks Larry, excuse my newbie ness. I thought that was the regulator and figured that meant return but this is my first FI swap rodeo.

 

[Larry]

Thanks Larry, excuse my newbie ness. I thought that was the regulator and figured that meant return but this is my first FI swap rodeo.

Hehe, you wouldn't be the first one. Think of the regulator as a controlled fuel leak to the tank. The more fuel leaks to the tank, the less pressure the injectors receive. The less fuel leak to the tank the more the pressure the injectors receive

 

[Capt Ron]

I got a bit done today. Removed engine, transmission and transfer case, seats, carpet, inst cluster etc.... I bolted a newer transmission tunnel on so I could keep water/debris out when I power wash the engine compartment. If the NV 4500 shifter hole is back a few inches it appears the 241 shifter will have to be moved back as well??
I am going to have to run new brake lines from the hydroboost to the proportioning valve because of the flare switch up. Anyone know if the lines going back will swap into a 1986 valve?
The MAW's and the While I'm Here's list is very long!

 

[Capt Ron]

So I towed the K5 to work today and gave it a powerwash in the engine compartment and underneath. It is times like this I feel very lucky to own a tow truck and have access to a decent Hotsy.

 

[ZooMad75]

Showoff!

Nice flex dude...

 

[Larry]

I’m confused on this…

I am going to have to run new brake lines from the hydroboost to the proportioning valve because of the flare switch up. Anyone know if the lines going back will swap into a 1986 valve?
The MAW's and the While I'm Here's list is very long!

What is this flare up you speak of? I’ve done a few hydroboost swaps and haven’t had to do anything with brake lines other than on the K10 where the front and rear lines had to be swapped at the master cylinder. Yours being late 70's truck will probably be like mine where you just swap the front and rear lines at the master providing you are using a master cylinder for the same year as your K5 but with hydroboost. For example, my truck is a 78 so I used a 78 1 ton w/hydroboost master cylinder. On my 89 Suburban I used an 89 Suburban with a 6.2 diesel master cylinder since the 6.2's all had hydroboost.

You can kinda see how the lines got swapped at the master cylinder on the K10 in this photo. The big line moves to the front on the larger master

 

[Capt Ron]

I’m confused on this…



What is this flare up you speak of? I’ve done a few hydroboost swaps and haven’t had to do anything with brake lines other than on the K10 where the front and rear lines had to be swapped at the master cylinder. Yours being late 70's truck will probably be like mine where you just swap the front and rear lines at the master providing you are using a master cylinder for the same year as your K5 but with hydroboost. For example, my truck is a 78 so I used a 78 1 ton w/hydroboost master cylinder. On my 89 Suburban I used an 89 Suburban with a 6.2 diesel master cylinder since the 6.2's all had hydroboost.

You can kinda see how the lines got swapped at the master cylinder on the K10 in this photo. The big line moves to the front on the larger master

Because I do most things bassackwards!
No here's the deal, the hydroboost I have already came from an 88 square and has what looks like a fairly new m/c, one of my factory brake lines has a hole rubbed in it from being pushed up against the steering. So I have to replace at least one of the lines already. So I figured replace the lines to match up to the m/c?
Side note: my foggy memory thinks metric fittings started in the early 80's?
More foggy stuff..... the blue fitting on your m/c.....metric? my 87 CC and my 88/67/69 shorty are both blue and I was thinking blue was a quick id of metric??

I have no problem dropping the coin for a new 77 hydroboost m/c but the number of returns I have been doing at work lately for craptastic [new] and reman parts lately has got me ready to pull my hair out! It SOMETIMES seems to be a good idea to use a proven but not used up piece.
As always you guys thoughts/ideas/head scratching is always appreciated.

 

[Larry]

Because I do most things bassackwards!
No here's the deal, the hydroboost I have already came from an 88 square and has what looks like a fairly new m/c, one of my factory brake lines has a hole rubbed in it from being pushed up against the steering. So I have to replace at least one of the lines already. So I figured replace the lines to match up to the m/c?
Side note: my foggy memory thinks metric fittings started in the early 80's?
More foggy stuff..... the blue fitting on your m/c.....metric? my 87 CC and my 88/67/69 shorty are both blue and I was thinking blue was a quick id of metric??

I have no problem dropping the coin for a new 77 hydroboost m/c but the number of returns I have been doing at work lately for craptastic [new] and reman parts lately has got me ready to pull my hair out! It SOMETIMES seems to be a good idea to use a proven but not used up piece.
As always you guys thoughts/ideas/head scratching is always appreciated.

That makes sense. As far as metric and SAE, it gets confusing…. Yeah, things like the hydrobooster, power steering pump and steering gearbox fittings went to metric (M16 and M18) in 1980 but the brake line fittings at the master cylinder and prop valve stayed SAE throughout all the square body years (except for possibly some oddball 90/91 half-tons with RWAL like Rob’s had) although the brake line fittings at the calipers went metric at some point (around 1985 I think) on everything as far as I have researched.

With that, you shouldn’t have any fitment issues pirating a prop to master line off any other square providing it isn’t a 90/91 RWAL rig.

So that brings up another point. If your hydrobooster is from an 88 and assuming you are using a later model power steering pump on the L29 you’re going to need to also swap on a later metric steering box as you’re going to have a line incompatibility.

 

[Capt Ron]

You were right @Larry [ Like there was any doubt ] the lines off of a 77 I parted out last year fit the hydroboost m/c.
Thanks for the heads up.

So that brings up another point. If your hydrobooster is from an 88 and assuming you are using a later model power steering pump on the L29 you’re going to need to also swap on a later metric steering box as you’re going to have a line incompatibility.

This I saw coming, the box I used was a new/reman I already had so I am going to have a couple of bastard pressure hoses built by a local hose shop. One hose for install and one to carry as a spare. Normally I stay away from this type of thing but I figure between having a spare and that a lot of Napa's are doing hoses now I should be ok. I spend about 15k a year at our hose place and as long as I do not get carried away they do all of my personal lines for free.

Check it out Larry, remember the bolt issue on my 241 flange? I bought the correct flange with a 3.125 pilot from ORD and it came with bolts!

 

[Truckman4life]

I have contemplated getting adapter fittings for my hydroboost/steering on my blazer and just doing regular hydraulic hoses with JIC ends. I don't care for them but then you could carry the do it yourself hydraulic hose ends and some hose and make a new one in the field if something failed. Only thing is that it adds another leakage point with putting the adapter and then a hose fitting. Stock lines are probably fine though for an otherwise stock setup.
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapter-fittings/power-steering.shtml

 

[Capt Ron]

Yesterday I removed the factory pedals and steering column and got the hydro pedals and tilt column back in. Went pretty smooth but the template I got with the pedals did not quite match up with my firewall. The hole for the reverse light grommet was off a bit so that had me questioning my templates accuracy. After measuring the setup on my C/C I determined the template was accurate and for whatever reason the reverse light grommet was simply in a slightly different place on my 77. Sorry no end of day pics, will get some tonight.


I was more then happy to remove the previous owners wiring mess and the state of the art audio system.

 

[Capt Ron]

The steering wheel I plan on using {86 S10 Jimmy with modified Corvette center cap} and the bracket I made to hold the L29 throttle cable.
Also installed an incredibly rare factory hand throttle I have had in my parts stash for over 20 years. Installed with factory hardware and backing plate. It activates directly at the foot pedal and has a ratchet type feel. Hardware sticks down a bit and if it proves unsightly from the driver's seat I will mount differently.

 

[mrk5]

That hand throttle setup is neat.

 

[ZooMad75]

That hand throttle setup is neat.

That looks like a factory piece. The font on it looks correct to the rest. Nice touch.