What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

77 K5 Just had to do it

Overview Gallery Discussion
mrk5 said:
That hand throttle setup is neat.
Click to expand...


ZooMad75 said:
That looks like a factory piece. The font on it looks correct to the rest. Nice touch.
Click to expand...
I am glad you guys like it.
Yep definitely a factory piece. I got it off of a one owner C60 Nebraska farm truck over 20 years ago, it was listed on the RPO sheet. This is the 3rd truck I have had it on, the two before being a couple of my tow trucks. It has got a backing plate with 2 studs, I never noticed the hardware sticking so far down before. Probably just the close up/angle of the camera. I have only seen one other one and it was hanging on the wall at Chevy Truck Parts here in Denver and while I do not remember the price I do remember it was a lot.
 
I could kinda see it being on a C60 if it was a farm truck. Make it easier to set the truck speed to match the combine while loading grain. But I'm just speculating.
 
I have been having to work Saturdays so progress has been slow. Today I scraped, scrubbed, and cleaned the firewall. Then I applied new seam sealer/undercoating and installed the hydroboost/master cylinder.
Also I have never been a fan of the factory fusible link hooked to the starter so I added a junction block and re-routed the main power wire. It will be fed by a new wire coming from the battery with an easy to access maxi-fuse.

IMG_20190407_183749018_HDR[1].jpg

IMG_20190407_184326426[1].jpg
 
Last edited:
Slow and steady wins the race. Besides, progress is progress. After getting back from work today my sum total of work completed on mine was taking out the mattress for the cab-over and yanking the crappy foam out of the cover. I replaced it with a queen sized memory foam folded in half and it almost fits perfectly. However, stuffing the memory foam into the cover was fun since it's nowhere near as rigid as the stuff FWC put in there. Oh and I added a waterproof USB port under the grill for remote power to the winch mounted GoPro. Highly technical I know, but needed additions. Wishing I could be bolting in a 4500 for the trip for sure.
 
So I have been doing a lot of finish work but hit a snag last night. I want to mount the Howell fuse box and diagnostic port inside the cab for obvious reasons and I spent about 1/2 an hour trying to unpin the 4 connections on the back of the fuse box without success. I have unpinned plenty of wires in the past but I simply have not been able to find the release tangs on these. I have yet to try to remove the wires on the diagnostic port. I do have a star type pin removal tool. Any suggestions/pictures?

IMG_20190512_180744630_HDR[1].jpg

IMG_20190512_180759598[1].jpg

IMG_20190513_054208207[1].jpg
 
Capt Ron said:
So I have been doing a lot of finish work but hit a snag last night. I want to mount the Howell fuse box and diagnostic port inside the cab for obvious reasons and I spent about 1/2 an hour trying to unpin the 4 connections on the back of the fuse box without success. I have unpinned plenty of wires in the past but I simply have not been able to find the release tangs on these. I have yet to try to remove the wires on the diagnostic port. I do have a star type pin removal tool. Any suggestions/pictures?

View attachment 302871

View attachment 302872

View attachment 302873
Click to expand...
Have the same howell/fuse block, no luck here either. I ended up opening a hole up on the firewall that I'll fabricate a nice cover to fit back on and finish with rubber grommets. Once I get my harnesses back...
 
@SpeedlabDan got it! I went out tonight after dinner and got the first one popped out in about 5 mins. After seeing exactly how they were pinned the others I popped right out. You go in from the front with the fuse removed and using the medium blade on the pin tool go above and then below the fuse pin while slightly pulling on the backside of the wire. It takes a bit of a touch, almost like picking a lock. I have removed plenty of ALDL pins so those I removed with no problem.

IMG_20190513_195744718[1].jpg

IMG_20190513_195832476[1].jpg
 
These are the best for automotive wiring. I have a couple at home, I used to get them with a wire harness repair kit International sold for the old 7.3L harnesses. I need to order some for work. I made one on the belt sander the other day out of a flat blade pocket screwdriver but it's hard to get them thin enough.
 
I am getting closer. I have spent a crazy amount of time just taking care of details like wiring, tbi fuel tank with new fuel pump, fuel lines, custom ps reservoir mount and about 50 other things. I believe I have used about a million adel clamps to help secure the wiring and plumbing etc... Right now I think spark plug wires, fuel, battery and a tiny bit more wiring/securing and this thing would start. Hoping for a Saturday startup and then still have a/c lines, exhaust and driveshafts to build/buy.

IMG_20190527_183756961[1].jpg
 
Three steps forward two steps back, I tried bleeding the clutch and no bueno. Pedal would stop about 5 inches from the floor and clutch rod was only moving about 3/8". Clutch fork was bottoming out on the back of the bellhousing.
So I pulled it all back apart. Throw out bearing is aprox 30mm thick and is the same thickness as 3 other 4500 t/o bearings I have on hand.
:1zhelp::sign22:

IMG_20190616_184238821[1].jpg
 
Probably need to see if the slave has more return travel. If so, adjust the pivot point out for the fork to give you more travel there. If the slave is bottomed, then you need to shorten the push rod.
 
Justin V said:
Probably need to see if the slave has more return travel. If so, adjust the pivot point out for the fork to give you more travel there. If the slave is bottomed, then you need to shorten the push rod.
Click to expand...
With the slave removed the clutch fork appears to be too "deep"like the pressure plate is not pushing the t/o bearing back enough or the t/o bearing is to short.
On another 4500 I picked up Saturday you can see where the t/o bearing slides on the input locates the fork about even with the inspection hole on the side of the bell, even with the slave removed this fork was about 1" from the inspection hole.
I originally figured the t/o bearing was too short even though I matched it up with others before the initial install but now that I got it out and compared with a 3rd t/o bearing I am a bit puzzled??
Justin V said:
I may be able to come by sometime too.
Click to expand...
You are welcome here anytime.
 
Last edited:
Check your pivot ball and see if it is removable from the bell housing. You may need to stack some washers to change the pivot location.


I am not at all versed in NV 4500's but my old Mitsu's had a screw in pivot that could be spaced out to help the fork throw.
 
Justin V said:
Check your pivot ball and see if it is removable from the bell housing. You may need to stack some washers to change the pivot location

I am not at all versed in NV 4500's but my old Mitsu's had a screw in pivot that could be spaced out to help the fork throw.
Click to expand...
It is definitely removable{you can actually see it in the pic above} but I am not sure it is adjustable. I will check that out when I get home from work tomorrow. Thanks for your help Justin.
 
Last edited:
The ball stud is not adjustable, I do have a few other nv4500 bells with different style clutch arms I can try if I am unable to figure out a solution.

IMG_20190617_192011077[2].jpg

IMG_20190617_192110556[2].jpg
 
Ron, without rolling backwards in the thread which bell were you using again? My memory has it with a AA bell. But I'm foggy on that. I know you told me one of the last times I was up there and I just don't recall it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom