I keep thinking about a D60 front myself...but i have to much coin in my 10B.
CK5
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77 K5 Just had to do it
- Thread starter Capt Ron
- Start date
I have not been able to close the deal on the 60. I have made him a pretty good offer but he will not accept or even make a counter offer. I am keeping my eyes open for another one. There is a couple on C-list but they are quite pricey.
This thing is so rad, stoked to see the progress on the rebuild. Is this one of the original chalet blazers?
I will admit I have been spoiled by some great 60 purchases in the past but I cannot see spending over about $800.00.
I usually will buy a whole or almost whole parts truck, sell what I do not need and end up with very little in the parts I keep.
Nope, google FWC or Four Wheel Campers
Deals are out there. I found a 60 dually +14 c&c for 900. Both had 4.56's and were 100% stock or I would've walked. Not the best deal because I needed hubs for the front and only stole gears, carrier and shafts from the rear, but still feel like I wasn't losing money...
Like I actually need to tell you this, but keep watching CL and something will turn up...
Oh yeah, dude wanted 1200 but I had Cash and he knew it...
Like I actually need to tell you this, but keep watching CL and something will turn up...
Oh yeah, dude wanted 1200 but I had Cash and he knew it...
I picked up a 60 today. It is a Dodge internal hub model with the right gears {4.10} I was looking for. I have been reading up on what it is going to take to run this in the K5 but any opinions on this would be appreciated
![IMG_20180330_184052383[1].jpg](https://ck5.com/forums/data/attachments/239/239449-fc391651283555c2b0df0a3c111cce33.jpg "IMG_20180330_184052383[1].jpg")
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Get the offset spring bushings from off road design, switch shock mounts and rock on.
There on the shopping list.
Thanks I planned on switching those out. The brake lines are gonna have to be changed out as well, I have not figured out yet if Chevy lines will bolt up to the Dodge calipers.
Calipers should be the same as gm, or if they need replaced just use Chevy ones.
Thanks. Calipers are in good shape, this is a 1991 front end so I suppose metric fittings possibly.
Spent some time on the K5 today. The Dodge 60 calipers have the same part #s as the Chevy 60 in my 27 day build and actually the rotors are the same width as well.
The rusty fender on the drivers side was driving me crazy looking at it and I really wanted to see how much rust was on the bottom firewall /fender brace so it got changed out today.
![IMG_20180401_182149921[1].jpg](https://ck5.com/forums/data/attachments/239/239638-2240aeb2cf6df783eef0ba6806b50a2c.jpg "IMG_20180401_182149921[1].jpg")
Probably the first time there was less rust then I was expecting to see. Coated it with some rust converter and installed the new/used fender.
![IMG_20180401_192512635[1].jpg](https://ck5.com/forums/data/attachments/239/239639-6d02a3045af3ad06ef176f5e75f99ed6.jpg "IMG_20180401_192512635[1].jpg")
My grandson helped. Life is really good!
The rusty fender on the drivers side was driving me crazy looking at it and I really wanted to see how much rust was on the bottom firewall /fender brace so it got changed out today.
Probably the first time there was less rust then I was expecting to see. Coated it with some rust converter and installed the new/used fender.
My grandson helped. Life is really good!
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That's good news the cab isn't as rusty as you thought. You going to remount the camper supports back to the fenders? I'm not sure they are as needed on one of these compared to a conventional truck/camper combo where the bed/camper is flexing independent of the cab. These all move together so outside of added support for a big dude sleeping up there, not much reason to keep them.
I've collected pics from the web of nearly 30 of these blazer campers and I can say yours is the only one I've seen with them. Say what you want but I think it supports my idea of them not being needed on these. Who knows. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I've collected pics from the web of nearly 30 of these blazer campers and I can say yours is the only one I've seen with them. Say what you want but I think it supports my idea of them not being needed on these. Who knows. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
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I removed both camper supports and they will not be going back on. I switched out the pass side fender yesterday also. I am hoping to pull the camper off this weekend and get started on the carpentry work. I am probably the worlds slowest carpenter but it has to be done.
Once you get the camper off the repairs to the cab wall and cabover floor will be pretty easy to address. Even for the slowest carpenter. Here are a few pointers from mine.
1. When you go to remove the camper, the bolts from the camper to the cab are easy to see on the passenger side. Drivers side not so easy. You'll have one in the propane compartment you'll reach from the outside for the rearmost bolt. The middle two you'll have to reach from inside through the cabinet. The front two will be obscured by the icebox completely. You won't have the ability to work through the opening on the outside like mine had for the fridge. So in your case, you'll have to pull the icebox out to even see the front two bolts. The icebox should attach to the cabinet with screws into the face of it. With those out, it should slide out. Since yours has the bolts on the cab too, you'll probably find one cab bolt hidden with the icebox too.
2. Try to take the rotted particle boards in one chunk if you can. At the minimum, multiple large chunks. The cab wall is worth using as a template if you intend on keeping the stock FWC cabinet as the cab wall closes in the area that your icebox is in. The opening is not in line with the actual cab for this reason.
3. For the cab over floor taking a template of the corner radius is the main thing you need to copy for a good fit. The rest is straight dimensions.
4. Install the cab over floor first. The cab wall butts up to the cab over floor and then is capped with a chunk of angle aluminum that should be under the shag carpet. The key thing to do prior to installing the cab over floor. If you plan on installing aluminum sheet on the exterior side instead of painting/sealing the plywood, cut that to fit and attach it to the plywood first. Then install it to the camper. This will allow the aluminum to be inside the lip of the edge of the frame that the plywood sits within. It will be much easier/cleaner to finish than the order I did mine in.
If you run into anything odd you need help with just call me. I'll be working Saturday morning, but after that I'll be running wiring in mine at home.
Thanks for all of the info.
So I assume you put aluminum on both the floor and wall?
Where did you buy the aluminum?
So I assume you put aluminum on both the floor and wall?
Where did you buy the aluminum?
Yeah it got put on the wall and the floor. I didn't buy it though. One of my co-workers had an extra roll of the stuff. You should be able to pick some up in Denver. I think it was 1/16" or less in thickness. If I had extra enough to cover yours I'd let you have my extra. The roll he gave me was just enough for mine.
