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77 project.

C

CShack

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Red Bluff Ca
I know for sure i am wanting to go with 35's and have seen that a minimum lift of 6 in is needed without cutting. I would like to keep the body stait and all there for the most part. What you guys think about going with the 6 in pro comp. it a full kit. for 675 can i do something simmilar that is equal or more durable than this kit for around the same $ or less?

Im also keeping the 350 and would like to make more mud and rock ready eventuall so other suggestion are welcome plz help.

Pics coming soon.
 
Just so you know MUD & ROCKs are two entirely diff. worlds. ROck you want articulation, mud you want solid planted plateform. Mud you generally want High Horsepower. ROck you want crawl gear ratios. etc etc etc . Jus sayin. ;)

6" should clear 35s pretty easily. Something to keep in mind. NOt all tire sizes are equal. Take my 33s for example. THe M/T Baja CLaw is actually 32.8 while the BFGs are 32.4, the toyos were the closest at 32.9. So, if your off by a smidge or just barely rub, dont worry about it, your tires will wear down eventually. ALso the size of the rim and width effect height.
 
First, a 6" lift with 35's does not guarantee that you won't have to cut any part of the fenders. If you have springs that flex at all you will have to cut the fenders at least a little.

4 wheeling in the rocks generally means a lower center of gravity (less lift) and more suspension travel. 4 wheeling in the mud means big trucks with lots of lift, suspension travel doesn't matter too much. Bigger tires will generally perform better in both, the rocks are harder on parts than mud is.

I don't know the mud sector very well but it seems like you want lots of suspension lift. In the rocks, you want as little lift as you can get away with.

If you go with a 6" lift you may need to lengthen your driveshafts which will cost at least a couple hundred $$.



Pro-comp springs are notoriously super stiff. Does that kit use blocks in the rear?

I would highly recommend lift springs in the front and use lift springs or a shackle flip in the rear. Blocks cause terrible axle wrap and have a tendency to depart from the axle and cause lots of carnage that will cost you lots more money than "doing it the right way" would have cost you in the first place.
 
I want to build a truck that can handle some abuse. I dont want to go all out like ive stated. I plan on building a sturdy truck that will do good all around. For that size.
 
The best lifts are peacemeal.. not a kit... and many ways to go about it...

generally, BDS or TC lift springs up front and a shackle flip of some sort out back is highly recommended.... Then you can throw zero rates into the mix front or rear to get another inch and move the axles forward or back.... slightly longer shackles front and rear are often in the mix too...

as said, with 6", expect shaft work.. in addition to longer brakelines, etc..

Best advice would be to start reading in here, maybe invest in a membership and learn before you buy...
 
Ive been told this before so now i beleive and would like to shoot for that. are there any outstanding build threads?
 
there are many good build threads on here, just start searching and see what direction they take and wether or not it pertains to your idea of what you want. So far all we know is that you want the proverbial first lift to clear 35's, at least you didn't ask if they will fit with a 4" lift (the most commonly asked question on here). How hard you plan on using the truck and terrain should dictate how you modify your rig. As in, you like your sheetmetal so you probably aren't going to hammer it in the rocks hard enough to need 1 tons.

Take a look at the how will my truck look thread and look at some of the fender trimming articles before you decide you really want a 6" lift with 35's
 
well sorry guys, still no pics, but i now know it has the 350, th350, dana 44 front, 12 bolt rear. The only body damage other than minor rust is the passenger footwell is rusted pretty bad. but it does need alot of work to look good, interior and a paint job. working on pics i just moved so sorry guys.
 
I just finished building my 77. For mud.

I have 6" pro-comp springs, rear shackle flip utilizing the stock front spring hangers for the rear. and a 2" block.


If you're planning on playing in the mud...Don't hesitate to put money into your motor first...I built me a 383 that will ROAST the 37s...
I run 37" Iroks, and they rub. When I turn and flex.

I have a thread on here some-where of how I replaced my floors, rockers, and cab corners. If you need ideas/help.
 
I didn't notice a whole lot of anything within the first couple pages under suspension and axle, is a 12 bolt not very popular ive asked around everybody always says to go with something else, should i?
 
The bigger questions are yours to answer, then you will have your answer.

What exactly is your truck going to be used the most for, rocks, trails, mud, mall crawling?
What size is your wallet?
Answer that and we will give you the all coveted truth.

If you like trail riding, with a smallish wallet, like the majority of us, then run what you got. add some small lift (2 inches) and some 33's and then wheel the piss out of it. These close to stockers are the most fun anyway. Forces you to drive with your head on straight.

I've been building mine since 2003, spent in excess of 15 K, and just now am getting ready to put it on the road this year, after 5 years.
 
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