So the marks in the pump cover. Can you feel them? The picture makes it look like a decent step at the edge.
I honestly don't know what is too worn on these.
I honestly don't know what is too worn on these.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
I couldnt feel anything by hand on the inside of the pump or the pump cover and I rotated the pump and everything seemed tight and clean, so im assuming its good..
Pump alignment tool worked well, could have made something but wasnt a huge expense for a large band clamp. Pump bolts are 18 ft lb for torque spec.
Last edited:
Thinking of pulling the trigger on this shifter. Will just make a shift rod and knob, to save costs. Maybe just use an old mini bat or something... The exhaust routes so close to the shifter that with the stock linkage rotating, i cant get into first.
Pardon Our Interruption
www.summitracing.com
Pardon Our Interruption
www.summitracing.com
Since im waiting for those new seals to arrive , i cant continue to assemble the drive assembly... so i figured id tackle the valve body and clean it out. The sonnax kit came with an optional tcc valve that eliminates partial slip signals from the ECU. Not sure if ill go that route or keep it the way it is, will need to dig up some info on that.
Not sure if i can test the solenoids or not but will also look into that
\
Not sure if i can test the solenoids or not but will also look into that
\
That's kind of ominous.
My wife is around 16-17 weeks pregnant with a boy at the moment and although I am allowed to put a rear facing carseat in the c10, because it doesnt have airbags, I have been shopping around with her support for a car thats good on gas, reliable and spacious.. Well i went to see one and brought this home. I was looking around for wagons alot, I didnt want an suv at all and most used wagons were audis and bmw's. Started remembering how much cooler then JDM wagons were. Being on the west coast, theres no shortage of jdm vehicles over here. Found this one, and although rough around the edges, seems pretty un molested, and well taken care of. Has 168k km on it. Suspension is pretty rough, warped rotors showing as braking vibration at high speeds.. but for now seems good. My obd2 wont read it so im hoping i can update it or something..? Never touched one of these before so lots of learning to be had.
1999 subaru legacy gt.
2.0L sohc* twin sequential turbo
AWD 55/45 split
Right hand drive.
260 whp.
Fun little thing so far. Will be great for hauling kids , gear and driving in all the weather crap that we get here in the winters.
Previous owner said the timing belt had been done, but i suspect thats maybe false by how worn the belt is already, or they just didnt replace it, but doubtful. Since it clunks i can stell the struts are pretty shot. Going to put some brakes and struts in it, as well as some inner tie rods, both boots are ripped up.. but i soaked a lot of the front end components expecting them to be coming out.
I
I am still waiting on the summit order, which has those teflon oil sealing rings in there for the input shaft. Once that gets here this week i can march forward and now with a daily driver i could get a head start on breaking out the trans off the 5.3 and moving the engine backwards a bit..
1999 subaru legacy gt.
2.0L sohc* twin sequential turbo
AWD 55/45 split
Right hand drive.
260 whp.
Fun little thing so far. Will be great for hauling kids , gear and driving in all the weather crap that we get here in the winters.
Previous owner said the timing belt had been done, but i suspect thats maybe false by how worn the belt is already, or they just didnt replace it, but doubtful. Since it clunks i can stell the struts are pretty shot. Going to put some brakes and struts in it, as well as some inner tie rods, both boots are ripped up.. but i soaked a lot of the front end components expecting them to be coming out.
I
I am still waiting on the summit order, which has those teflon oil sealing rings in there for the input shaft. Once that gets here this week i can march forward and now with a daily driver i could get a head start on breaking out the trans off the 5.3 and moving the engine backwards a bit..
Didn't know Canada had right hand drive! Or are you planning on delivering mail lol?
Mail man for sure, ill probably walk towards the wrong door when getting in for quite some time...
RHD that's gotta be super weird
Congratulations though. Better get this truck on the road before baby gets here. Trust me been there twice now...
Congratulations though. Better get this truck on the road before baby gets here. Trust me been there twice now...
It was for about 5 minutes.. I'm pretty lucky to have driven lots of cranes around and they can be whatever which way, so you sort of have to adapt. I also hold a full CDL and have driven the strangest shit down the road before. Im pretty sure thats why these cars dont fetch money easily, lots of people dont want to drive them around id think. They get expensive when they are modded out but this one is basically bone stock with a beat up hood. Underneath looks to be in great shape mechanically. Now to learn about flat 4 cylinder boost motors...
There is apparently a tune in it for our regular octane as japans normal is around 100 octane. Lots of these motors end up breaking ringlands or pinging because the stock tune is geared towards a higher octane. I would love to find a way into this ecm though... im working on it.The recent push for the truck has been absolutely because of baby. Ive been daily driving the truck and it seems to be reliable. Hasnt died on me once or overheated, oil pressure is steady in the 30s at hot idle and 50 around cruising. I am currently taking a tuning course online and making lots of notes. I also started a tuning diary to be more precise with every single change made. I have some squeeks to find but other then that its good for now from my standpoint. My goal is to park it around November for the winter and have the new transmission installed.
This is the second time today I've seen the term "JDM". What does that mean? I'm assuming the J has something to do with Japan, but beyond that....
Japanese domestic market
I'm old enough to remember they used to make you convert RHD to left hand before you could legally drive it. They have totally relaxed on that the last 15 years or so.
Holy crap , that would be so much work...
This thing is decked out with front and rear sway bars and since its a longitude driveline set up, maybe I could shove an LS in it and make it rwd only. The transfer case is integrated into the transmission for the front drive and uses a planetary ser up with a clutch to provide the power transfer to the front.
Cars been runnin good so far, has a bit of a wondering idle at warm up but other then that it seems to run well. Making about 13 psi of boost and some typical valvetrain noise, but nothing that stands out. Changed out the rear diff fluid, this cars got 4.11 gears which is pretty neat. Transmission ratios are
1st - 2.785
2nd - 1.545
3rd - 1.000
4th - 0.694
Ordered up a transmission pan gasket, and filter. The amount of orange goop on the trans pan makes me think they didnt change a filter either.. The transmission also has a secondary spin on fluid filter..
We went over to the cabin and my father in law had his Citroen 2CV " deux chevaux ' parked there. Neat little island car.
The teflon rings showed up so i could continue to put the trans back together, i ordered 4 extra just incase.. The Genie shifter and mount also showed up, which will be nice to mount up when this is done and goes into the truck.
Got the o rings on but didnt buy the installer and just used a seal pick to ease them into place. I also didnt have the resizing tool after either and just used electrical tape to restrict them in there grooves after ensuring they were correctly orientated.
- I was then able to slide on and clock the input reverse drum with the input carrier, confirmed it was fully seated by ensuring the thrust washer was moving with the input drum.
- I was then able to clock the 3-4 frictions inside the case with the planetary gears. This wasnt the easiest part but just keep at it a bit n shell go. The book says you can confirm the 3 points of meshing are fully engaged when the input drum is sitting just below the oil pump seating surface in the case.
- Once installed in the case i could install the drum band, and seat the band pin also. The book has a hard to read drawing of where the tangs are supposed to be seated so im hoping i got it right. Ill probably confirm before i stick the pump on.
Also while i was away this weekend i happened to be cruising Princessauto online sales and find this kneumatic/hydraulic 13t pipe bender on sale from 549$ for 239$ taxes in... Reason for this is with how crazy shipping prices are, finding a set of manifolds for this car is proving tougher and more expensive than i had thought. The cats are right there under the front of the car and are pretty roasted. Im hoping to cut them out and build my own y pipe.. probably look like chit but hey!, its fun.
Will be sweet to learn how to use this for all sorts of stuff. It came with 1/2 inch to 2 inch dies. I know this wont work for most truck exhausts or anything but will be more for fabing structured stuff and making this car exhaust. Last tool i want to aqquire is a table saw for cutting metal, almost jumped on a good deal for a wooden one, but then with some internet diggin i realized cutting steel the rpms must be slower and havent jumped on any used ones yet.
1st - 2.785
2nd - 1.545
3rd - 1.000
4th - 0.694
Ordered up a transmission pan gasket, and filter. The amount of orange goop on the trans pan makes me think they didnt change a filter either.. The transmission also has a secondary spin on fluid filter..
We went over to the cabin and my father in law had his Citroen 2CV " deux chevaux ' parked there. Neat little island car.
The teflon rings showed up so i could continue to put the trans back together, i ordered 4 extra just incase.. The Genie shifter and mount also showed up, which will be nice to mount up when this is done and goes into the truck.
Got the o rings on but didnt buy the installer and just used a seal pick to ease them into place. I also didnt have the resizing tool after either and just used electrical tape to restrict them in there grooves after ensuring they were correctly orientated.
- I was then able to slide on and clock the input reverse drum with the input carrier, confirmed it was fully seated by ensuring the thrust washer was moving with the input drum.
- I was then able to clock the 3-4 frictions inside the case with the planetary gears. This wasnt the easiest part but just keep at it a bit n shell go. The book says you can confirm the 3 points of meshing are fully engaged when the input drum is sitting just below the oil pump seating surface in the case.
- Once installed in the case i could install the drum band, and seat the band pin also. The book has a hard to read drawing of where the tangs are supposed to be seated so im hoping i got it right. Ill probably confirm before i stick the pump on.
Also while i was away this weekend i happened to be cruising Princessauto online sales and find this kneumatic/hydraulic 13t pipe bender on sale from 549$ for 239$ taxes in... Reason for this is with how crazy shipping prices are, finding a set of manifolds for this car is proving tougher and more expensive than i had thought. The cats are right there under the front of the car and are pretty roasted. Im hoping to cut them out and build my own y pipe.. probably look like chit but hey!, its fun.
Will be sweet to learn how to use this for all sorts of stuff. It came with 1/2 inch to 2 inch dies. I know this wont work for most truck exhausts or anything but will be more for fabing structured stuff and making this car exhaust. Last tool i want to aqquire is a table saw for cutting metal, almost jumped on a good deal for a wooden one, but then with some internet diggin i realized cutting steel the rpms must be slower and havent jumped on any used ones yet.
Last edited:
Hey dude, I hope you kept the receipt for the pipe bender. I hate to be the guy to tell you but those benders are the biggest POS sold at tool stores. All they do is crush and ruin anything less than sched 40.
For exhaust work you are better off buying a box of bends and piecing it together. For roll cage work you want a "radial draw" bender like this JD2. KMS tools carry tubing benders like that if you're ever so inclined.
For exhaust work you are better off buying a box of bends and piecing it together. For roll cage work you want a "radial draw" bender like this JD2. KMS tools carry tubing benders like that if you're ever so inclined.
JD Squared, Inc. | US-Made Metalworking Tools. Model 32 Tube and Pipe Bender | JD Squared, Inc.
The Model 32 Tube and Pipe Bender from JD Squared delivers precision, durability, and versatility for fabricators and metalworkers. Made in the USA.
www.jd2.com
