ok thanks for the re assurance, I was almost sure you had taught me that process with my k5 doors when we swapped them. I will make note of the fender shims as they are now and tweak from there.
CK5
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yeah, we got your K5 doors really good...and then something happened to those doors, or was it just one?
Anyways, the process is what's important.
Anyways, the process is what's important.
Me and a good friend colin were out wheeling, and my passenger door was open about 9-10 inches... he pulled up in his heep on 37s, his tire caught the rear bottom corner of the door, and lambo'd my door a good 6-7 inches.. maybe more as his tire rolled forward.
yes the process, is a better memory haha
Yeah, I remember now. lol
No bad suprises behind door number one, although i didnt expect there to be any but nice to know. Got the crank pulley off and front cover.. ill make sure to flip it around this time. Hadnt leaked yet thankfully. I did notice some light yellow/goldish color on the cam lobes in a few spots... Might just pull the heads before yanking the engine out completely, with the front clip off ill have lots of room to work on it.
Also started to discover the reason for lack of endplay, after installing the pump and stator in the trans. Once i had the 13 mm pump bolts loosened, I could spin the trans and had endplay again. I had suspected that one of the stator or shaft teflon rings had come out since i had scarf cut them..one had a small knick it in, so ill just cave and buy the tapered seating tool this time. something had not enjoyed its time meeting the pump stator bushing but cant seem to find where on the shaft it happened. Once i have a few minutes to measure it all out ill be able to see what happened better, but im glad i got the ball rolling atleast. It may also be i put the wrong bushing in there and the OD was the same but inside wasnt. ill measure the shaft and ID of the bushing and see.
Also started to discover the reason for lack of endplay, after installing the pump and stator in the trans. Once i had the 13 mm pump bolts loosened, I could spin the trans and had endplay again. I had suspected that one of the stator or shaft teflon rings had come out since i had scarf cut them..one had a small knick it in, so ill just cave and buy the tapered seating tool this time. something had not enjoyed its time meeting the pump stator bushing but cant seem to find where on the shaft it happened. Once i have a few minutes to measure it all out ill be able to see what happened better, but im glad i got the ball rolling atleast. It may also be i put the wrong bushing in there and the OD was the same but inside wasnt. ill measure the shaft and ID of the bushing and see.
Need to confirm but I’m pretty sure this is the culprit. Different material and also slightly small I.D.
And then today I was on summit because I was searching for another Teflon turbine shaft seal, and I saw sonnax has an upgraded rear stator shaft bushing available. Apparently the gm ones are prone to failure… it’s 7 bucks and since I gotta order the oil rings anyway, I might as well spend 300 bucks because.. I mean free shipping right..
So I’ll get this pump and stator apart and press this bushing out. I’m happy it was easy to see and I’m glad the bushing was soft enough it seemed to take 100% of the damage, and since it couldn’t spin it didn’t rotate and carve anything up luckily.
And then today I was on summit because I was searching for another Teflon turbine shaft seal, and I saw sonnax has an upgraded rear stator shaft bushing available. Apparently the gm ones are prone to failure… it’s 7 bucks and since I gotta order the oil rings anyway, I might as well spend 300 bucks because.. I mean free shipping right..
So I’ll get this pump and stator apart and press this bushing out. I’m happy it was easy to see and I’m glad the bushing was soft enough it seemed to take 100% of the damage, and since it couldn’t spin it didn’t rotate and carve anything up luckily.
Another thing that ill have to figure out if hauling a trailer is a parking brake. Wouldnt feel too comfortable with a truck and trailer on a parking pawl.. I enjoy having stock front calipers on the rear end, and dont want anything to do with elderado brakes from all ive read and heard. I was thinking of ways and doing some searching, and i came across this article about a guy making and installing a pinion parking brake on a 12 bolt car axle. Thinking this might be a fun project if i can source parts, and way easier to just have it regardless of what i do with my rear end brakes. Wilwood makes a shoe in hat style caliper that would work, but its way too expensive for me although its real shiny...
It seems he used to sell stuff but it seems dead for sure.
It seems he used to sell stuff but it seems dead for sure.
https://www.einstyn.com/in-the-beginning/pinion-mounted-parking-brake/
I really like pinion or back of trans parking brakes. They worked well in the medium duty side of things.
Seems like a great alternative hypothetical solution to me, but i have no experience and cant find too many applications besides some ford drum magic bullchit, and monster truck applications with big disks, and the threads with people asking but no real clear cut stuff. So far ive discovered that ATV disk brakes are commonly about 8 " and use 4 mounting bolts. It would be ideal to only change two bolt holes on the caliper but maybe i can find one with no holes and cut my own... probably not but oh well. There is a lever operated caliper from wilwood. Do you have any suggestions on sizing or just get decent stuff and itll be okay. If a parking pawl holds a vehicle until it brakes , it cant take much to stop a vehicle from rolling.
Wilwood Disc Brakes - Mech Spot Calipers
Wilwood Engineering manufacturers a wide variety of different lightweight, high performance, and extremely durable aluminum calipers in small, medium and large sizes. Mech Spot Calipers
www.wilwood.com
Which seems like a good choice and It would be nice to install it with a cable using the stock ish set up , or atleast the pedal in the same position.
I moved the gen-set to the dark side of the shop, and ill finish it over there as there is not much else to do, itll also be better to load it out that door when fire up time comes sooner than later. Also the only way i could set up the engine stand, so sorta a must lol. I bought this little engine stand on sale because its cute n cheap.. sure itd barely reach without the front clip of,f but i couldnt buy the steel for cheaper and dont have alot of space. Also have been scheming on building a jib crane off the shop wall so it takes up no floor space and has a wide coverage area...
At first i thought id like to improve the heads first, but now that im going to be in there anyway, to do things i originally thought i should... and regardless of condition it does have probably 235k on it.. Not going to pull the trigger on anything until i see whats in there but want to get a plan going. Id hate to spend money on the top end if the bottom end shits out on the highway with the family n trailer , so the plan seems to be :
cam bearings if needed
journal bearings ,
rod bearings
rings.
pistons.
I bought what seems to be a decent bore gauge 2-6", which should allow me to check things over. Being a gen 4 motor, i do know it has H beam rods and they are a good upgrade from gen 3 motors, so thatd be fine and upgrade to forged pistons depending on price, and the condition of these ones.
Bore is 3.78 and stroke on some cranks ive looked at are 4.000 stoke , stock stroke is 3.68 I beleive , so thatd be around 360 Cu i from 330 stock? Id be happy with a bit of stroke , new bearings and rings and a healthy bottom end to build off for the future. Ill window shop it all and find out some actual costs, and although my rare tax return is almost all going to paying things off, an extra engine goodie would be nice. Regardless of how much power the truck has, its such a leap from my smog 350, that i dont think it can ever feel slow, ... unless it woopsies a window in the side of it.
The next available mounting position for the engine is 1.25 back. This is as much as id want to move it back really before the heads will be real close to the firewall, and even at 1.25 inches it will be right into the strain releif cable guide i put in for the harness to go through, so thatll have to get patched and relocated... might as well paint the firewall if the engines out and theres patch work.... shit, i better get to work
Goal is to have the truck running sometime around may or june, drive it for a month or two and then maybe get a camping trip or two locally out of it with the trailer. We will see how the transmission gods treat my rebuild, as this one keeps pissing on my floor now matter how much i yell at it..
As comfortable as I am getting exploring uncharted waters... Any suggestions or things to watch out for when it comes to swapping an aftermarket crank in would be greatly appreciated. Cause I’ve read a few places that state stroking an LS too much is bad due to the bottom of the piston hanging out of the bore ,ect... and I’m sure there are things I’m not going to account for…
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I will tell you that taking the time to get the transmission right will pay off.
My son spent an untold amount of time researching online, especially on LS1forums, and so much money on parts for research, then tools for every bore possible in the valve body.
It worked perfectly so far! The tuning in the PCM was entertaining to feel the differences.
Too bad that we need to go back into the free 5.3...
My son spent an untold amount of time researching online, especially on LS1forums, and so much money on parts for research, then tools for every bore possible in the valve body.
It worked perfectly so far! The tuning in the PCM was entertaining to feel the differences.
Too bad that we need to go back into the free 5.3...
I've not researched it a lot. Mostly looked at the 4x4 transfer case mounted stuff. They don't need to be a lot because they multiply the holding power by the gear ration I think like a pinion brake on a monster truck. Other option I've thought of doing is a Mico Lever Lock which is a mechanical means of locking pressure in the hydraulic brakes like a line lock but not with an electrical solenoid. They are used in the forklift world sometimes. Basically apply the brakes, flip the lever to lock the pressure in and release the pedal.
Is there a reason that you need to go into the motor other than preventative? Is it burning oil or low on compression?
If there is ever a risk of losing your Driveshaft, I would pick a pinion mounted brake over a transmission output mounted brake.
I will tell you that taking the time to get the transmission right will pay off.
My son spent an untold amount of time researching online, especially on LS1forums, and so much money on parts for research, then tools for every bore possible in the valve body.
It worked perfectly so far! The tuning in the PCM was entertaining to feel the differences.
Too bad that we need to go back into the free 5.3...
Yea it absolutely is taking its time.. ive ruined a ...."few" teflon rings, one bushing and more to come.. I dont have a ton of money into this 4l60 because if i did, it would look alot more like a TKX haha.. Im going to take my time with it but i dont think its going to get another rebuild,so im weary of spending too much money on expensive specific transmission tools for a 4l60e. There is so much on the internet that ive kinda just stuck to the ATSM manual i have, and since i didnt do any crazy upgrades it should go as per the manual... fingers crossed atleast. Stoked the rebuild has worked for you guys but the 5free is causing issues…
Burning some oil and seems to be oil coating the intake.. the main reason for going into the motor is just to have a look really. It’s a mystery junkyard engine, I reeeeallly don’t want to take it out again because I skipped doing my due diligence … again! Haha. I had so much on my plate with the swap I just wanted to move on past the engine, to keep figuring it all out. It’s had some iffy metallic oil changes and other signs that just make me think if I’m this close anyway due to moving the trans and motor back… might as well put it on the stand and have a looksie.
Compression when I first got it was about 150 on most I believe. Either way I don’t see much point in spending money on top floor Reno’s when the foundation could be sinking haha.
My son wanted to see for himself what can be done to one, rather than a 4L80E swap. And he had the money, so whatever, I guess.
The oil in the intake is caused somewhat by the small drain holes in the baffle of the valve cover. I put more holes in after watching a couple of videos and comparing to the newer cover. And cleaning the carbon out from behind the baffle helps too.
I still would like to put a catch can on mine, but haven't yet.
The oil in the intake is caused somewhat by the small drain holes in the baffle of the valve cover. I put more holes in after watching a couple of videos and comparing to the newer cover. And cleaning the carbon out from behind the baffle helps too.
I still would like to put a catch can on mine, but haven't yet.
they're good as parking brakes because braking is multiplied by the gear ratio. They aren't good as wheel brakes when driving because the rotor is spinning at the same multiplier, so major heat issues if you're trying to use them for driving. Good for Monster trucks in arenas though...
its awesome he dove right in, im still suprised i did.. and i dont know if i float yet like he does
. Im sure he learned enough to plow through some other projects with ease, and the upgrades probably relate to a 4l80 also.Yea i almost thought about buying new valve covers but for the money id rather replace something more important. Ill definitely try and drill some holes after looking up some info on that.
I used some carb cleaner to help loosen the crap in my covers.
Forgot to say that.
Carb clean, compressed air. Maybe oven cleaner would work too?
Forgot to say that.
Carb clean, compressed air. Maybe oven cleaner would work too?
I used some carb cleaner to help loosen the crap in my covers.
Forgot to say that.
Carb clean, compressed air. Maybe oven cleaner would work too?
I have some gnarly cleaner in a jug called hydro seal…. smells like Californians crying ,so I’m sure it’ll work
