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8 lug 10b front end rebuild... *DONE*

obijuan said:
they have little c-clips on the inside of the ears, pry that iff with a screwdriver or something and then theyre just regular joints.
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Slapperbar said:
You'll need to smack the snot out of the caps to unload the clips. Then it's prety straight forward.
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Ok thanks guys... that's what I figured but I was tired so I called it a day and got cleaned up...

I'll jar stuff loose with a sledge then pop those clips off and out of the way... I've done them in my vice before (with two sockets) but if that doesn't work I'll just take them to work and use the press...
 
you probably wont have trouble but do the trick where you put a bolt between the ears so you dont bend them. if you can just squirt some PB blaster on them before you go to bed.
 
Good thinking... I know our press will pop them out like nothin' but I didn't think about bending the ears...
I'll cut off some scrap metal to slide in there before I pop them out...
 
I took the axle shafts to work today and figured I'd putter around with them on my lunch break... man those suckers are TIGHT.

I got all the retaining clips out and managed to get one u-joint completely out... so one side is ready to go (I'll pop the new u-joints in tomorrow).
BUT the other side was so tight I kept bending the steel punches I was using so I soaked it in some Panther Piss and I'll give it another whirl tomorrow at lunch.
 
haha yeah no kidding... there is no way they would have come out at home with a sledge...
 
Good news... my parts came in at Auto Zone today ($45 for a stupid spindle nut and holie washer kit) and my boss showed me a trick for getting u-joints out...
It seems so simple I can't believe I didn't think of it before... basically it's the same setup as normal (for u-joints that aren't insanely stuck).
He put a small punch on one side and a large socket on the other then clamped it all in the vice making sure it was perfectly lined up...
Then instead of using the vice to squeeze it out he used an aluminum punch and a BFH and with one swift swing hit the housing (where the meat is around the neck before you get to the ears) and shifted the housing around the u-joint.

So instead of hitting the u-joint out of the housing he hit the housing out from around the u-joint... no press needed and you don't risk bending anything.

Oh, and he straightened the ear that I tweaked yesterday.... my boss definately saved the day! :)

I'll get back at it hopefully Thursday night (busy tomorrow) and I should be good to go by the weekend... if I could only get some new tires I'd be set but even if that doesn't happen I'll be ready to go to the dunes next weekend.
 
Neat trick, have to tell my father in law about that one.
 
bp71k5 said:
The nut is not supposed to be super tight. If it's from a 78 then it's the same as the hubs I replaced yesterday.

You torque the inner nut (the one with the pin on it) down to 50 ft/lbs while spinning the hub assembly on the bearings. (you may need another set of hands to help)

Then you back that nut off 1/4 turn (some books say 3/8) and then re-torque it down to 35 ft/lbs while rotating the hub.

Then you put the "holie" washer on and rotate the inner nut just enough to line up with one of the holes in the washer.

Then you tighten the outer lock nut to 50 ft/lbs on earlier versions and later models list as torqued to 80 ft/lbs.

You'll know it's right if you can freely rotate the hub and there's no obvious slack in the bearings when you pull or push it back and forth.
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It looks like he has an 85 and I think the final nut torque is much higher - 150 ft-lbs or something like that. I know I have to put a jack stand under the head of the torque wrench to keep the socket from slipping out (or use an impact wrench).
 
Avery4jc said:
I came back home and tore the other side apart (as pictured above) and when I pulled the spindle off to get the axle shaft out I realized the little bearing inside the spindle was completely shot on this side... so I sent my dad back to see what they could find...
They had one in stock so he snagged it...

But this one from the driver's side is the one that's shot... so luckily they had one in stock...
100_6217.jpg



100_6213.jpg
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Check out the bearing surface on that axleshaft and make sure it's in good shape before putting it back. It may just need some dressing, but it's best to be sure.
 
Yeah it looks kinda rough in that pic but we cleaned stuff up and checked the areas... they'll be ok.
 
Good news... I wrapped up the passenger side completely! Brand spankin' new u-joint, all fresh bearings and seals... heck even new spindle nuts and holie washer...

It's all greased up and ready to go... the hub even works better now after cleaning everything out... so now that I know exactly how to do it tomorrow night should be even faster. Hopefully I'll have a movie of me flyin' down the street on all four tires by the end of tomorrow night ;)
 
I think the final nut torque is much higher - 150 ft-lbs or something like that.
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I'd like to see how someone could torgue that down to 150. I can barely get it to 60 without the dumb socket slipping off in all that grease. My two books say 50 and 80.
 
FREAKIN' DONE!!!!

I finished the driver's side tonight and got it back on all four tires! Just in time too... we're going to Pismo on Thursday!
I smelled a little something when I got back from my test drive but I think it was the grease residue that I wiped off the rotors... nothing was smoking, everything was tight and the hubs were cool to the touch when I got back from the test drive.
The only issue I have is that the driver's side hub doesn't match what the chrome housing says (it's perfect on "Free" but to get it to engage you turn it the "wrong" way)... BUT it works and at this point I don't care if it doesn't exactly line up to what the little letters stamped in the ring say...

It's a good feeling... all new bearings, seals and u-joints.

So am I good to go or is there a chance that the nuts can back off over time?
 
There's always a chance but if you did it correctly it should last the service interval without sweating it.

Just check it again in a year if a tire hasn't come off by then. An excuse to keep up on it.
 
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