Anyone have a wiring diagram, but I believe they're simple switches so if they're closed they should have continuity. Perhaps they're corroded or something is interfering.
CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.
- Thread starter cybrfire
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- squarebody-avalanche
That last time I suggested that, he end up getting another column. I'm afraid to suggest again.
rofl
WyoSquareMan
Blood type: GM
From what I understand when checking with the ohm meter it puts a small amount of voltage between the two probes and reads the resistance between the two if you have an open circuit there will be no resistance, thus no continuity. But im really not 100% sure, if anyone can explain it better I would love to know electrical is one of my weaker points and want to learn more of the technical aspects to it.
Close, but slightly backwards. Higher amounts of resistance means the current flows less readily. For checking continuity in a wire or switch, you should expect the resistance to be very low (near zero). An open circuit looks like an infinite amount of resistance. A cruddy connection in the circuit will yield a resistance value somewhere between the extremes.
For a simple circuit like this one, you should be open (infinite) or closed (near zero). There shouldn't be any middle readings. Are you checking right at the switch terminals? If so, the problem is inside there (unless your meter's broken).
WyoSquareMan
Blood type: GM
Thanks for clarifying campfire like I said one of my weaker points
I pulled it all apart tonight. I don't really understand how the switch is supposed to work but I don't see any corrosion or anything. With the white plastic pieces that comprise the switch pulled out, I used the OHM meter again and it works. Put it all back together and it all works fine now. No idea what I did or what changed.
I'd like to know what happened but at least I can continue forward now. Gotta get a steering shaft universal joint. Needs to be 1" 48 spline to 3/4" smoothbore for welding.
I'd like to know what happened but at least I can continue forward now. Gotta get a steering shaft universal joint. Needs to be 1" 48 spline to 3/4" smoothbore for welding.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet...8-Spline-to-3-4-In-Round-GM-Column,31392.html
Not cheap by any means... That's where I got mine for my modified XJ shaft
Not cheap by any means... That's where I got mine for my modified XJ shaft
What campfire said about the meter is spot on but I've found alot of times where it will test fine with a meter but as soon as you load test you can't get amperage through it. It only takes one strand to complete the connection for a meter. I always load test with a fog light also or you can use a fuse. I believe it's Eaton that has you blow a 30 amp fuse to load test theor wiring harness. I know this doesn't help your situation but has saved me alot.
Yes, this is also a valid point. Since the meter is sending such a minute amount of current, a small strand will look like a good circuit, even though it can't handle the larger draws found in most automotive circuits.
Got the steering column back in today. Debating steering wheel selection. I have a GMC steering wheel out of a 89 blazer that is in pretty decent shape but was thinking I might want something different.
Built a quick bracket to hold the voltage regulators. Left regulator is for the primary Dodge alternator and the right is for the aux. alternator/welder.
Center mounting bolt will double as a ground lug for the regulators, and headlights on the passenger side.
Built a quick bracket to hold the voltage regulators. Left regulator is for the primary Dodge alternator and the right is for the aux. alternator/welder.
Center mounting bolt will double as a ground lug for the regulators, and headlights on the passenger side.
so your Dodge alt is externally regulated? Mine is regulated by the computer? I might go with a 1 wire GM alt.Got the steering column back in today. Debating steering wheel selection. I have a GMC steering wheel out of a 89 blazer that is in pretty decent shape but was thinking I might want something different.
Built a quick bracket to hold the voltage regulators. Left regulator is for the primary Dodge alternator and the right is for the aux. alternator/welder.
Center mounting bolt will double as a ground lug for the regulators, and headlights on the passenger side.
Regulated by the computer is external, the regulator takes place of the computer.
Yep, externally regulated. This year motor never had the computer. Not sure what year they started having the computer do those duties. At any rate, this fits in better with this build theme. Things being simple that is.
Yeah, I want to say it was 1994 or 95 they went to some computer controlled stuff. Not sure what all was controlled by the computer either. To be honest, I'm not that knowledgeable on all the different 12v stuff. I just wanted the older simpler version.
