CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
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- Tags
- squarebody-avalanche
Been pretty busy lately so I haven't made much progress.
I did decide one of the best ways to get more clearance in my steering, for the hydraulic system, was to get rid of the overly long cylinder. This cylinder was originally meant for a low steer set up on my old crew cab. I have no other real purpose for it and have been messing around with internal stops and yada yada.
Here's a couple shots of the modifications so far.
The length of the ram was shortened up just a little less than 3", however, the ram was drilled and tapped at that length making the ram itself around 5.5" shorter. That being said, I will modify the casing yet, it will also get a little less than 3" shorter. So, with the ram fully extended, it will be 8.25" shorter than it was originally. Full extension is where I was coming up with the most clearance issues. Ram side of the cylinder was reaching out over top of the leaf spring and getting very close to the ubolts and ubolt nuts.
I measured my high steer drag link travel at 5-3/16". The ram is now set up for 5-1/16" of travel leaving the cylinder itself to be the steering stops.
So, next step is to shorten the casing. Gona cut the tail off of that today. Much easier to modify the tail. Not a lot going on back there. Machine up a new end cap and port for it and get it all welded back together. The new port will be welded on behind the casing itself so there will be no concern of warping the tube where the piston travels.
I did decide one of the best ways to get more clearance in my steering, for the hydraulic system, was to get rid of the overly long cylinder. This cylinder was originally meant for a low steer set up on my old crew cab. I have no other real purpose for it and have been messing around with internal stops and yada yada.
Here's a couple shots of the modifications so far.
The length of the ram was shortened up just a little less than 3", however, the ram was drilled and tapped at that length making the ram itself around 5.5" shorter. That being said, I will modify the casing yet, it will also get a little less than 3" shorter. So, with the ram fully extended, it will be 8.25" shorter than it was originally. Full extension is where I was coming up with the most clearance issues. Ram side of the cylinder was reaching out over top of the leaf spring and getting very close to the ubolts and ubolt nuts.
I measured my high steer drag link travel at 5-3/16". The ram is now set up for 5-1/16" of travel leaving the cylinder itself to be the steering stops.
So, next step is to shorten the casing. Gona cut the tail off of that today. Much easier to modify the tail. Not a lot going on back there. Machine up a new end cap and port for it and get it all welded back together. The new port will be welded on behind the casing itself so there will be no concern of warping the tube where the piston travels.
Aaaaaaasick!
cylinder casing chopped off.
Decided to reuse the piece that has the heim joint threaded into it. Would have remade the same thing anyways.
Had some impurities creep in somewhere along the way and ended up with a couple pinholes in the weld. Disappointing but fixed er up and good to go now.
The end result, nowhere near any clearance issues any longer.
Decided to reuse the piece that has the heim joint threaded into it. Would have remade the same thing anyways.
Had some impurities creep in somewhere along the way and ended up with a couple pinholes in the weld. Disappointing but fixed er up and good to go now.
The end result, nowhere near any clearance issues any longer.
Spent some time on the overhead electrical console as well. Got it fitting where it needs to be.
When I cut the thing out originally, I had a lot of warpage. I figured through bending and the rest I'd work some of that out. Well, that didn't happen. Tried annealing the aluminum and working the warpage out and it just got worse and worse. Stuck it in a press as a last ditch effort to try and straighten things out. That didn't work but made some nice dents.
Hammered out a few of the dents and voila! No more warpage. Go figure. I would have beat on it with a hammer right away if I'd have thought it would have done any good. Time to get a flange put on it for the control panel.
When I cut the thing out originally, I had a lot of warpage. I figured through bending and the rest I'd work some of that out. Well, that didn't happen. Tried annealing the aluminum and working the warpage out and it just got worse and worse. Stuck it in a press as a last ditch effort to try and straighten things out. That didn't work but made some nice dents.
Hammered out a few of the dents and voila! No more warpage. Go figure. I would have beat on it with a hammer right away if I'd have thought it would have done any good. Time to get a flange put on it for the control panel.
Awsome Kert, looks good man.!!!,
Haven't gotten much done lately. Few small things but nothing real photo worthy till yesterday.
This came back from powder coating and I could resist throwing it together and snapping a couple pics.
This came back from powder coating and I could resist throwing it together and snapping a couple pics.
weathertights, nice...... live by them things...
came out slick..... ***hintfutureproducthint***
I'm super happy with the way the hydro assist turned out.
Having shortened the hydraulic cylinder to a tick over 5" of stroke, I got all the clearance I needed and more.
Here's some shots of the final product.
Full lock left turn. Hard to see but there is about 1/16" of space between the steering stop and the axle. They cylinder is the stop.
Same situation with the other turn,
Right turn, shot of the end of the cylinder where all the clearance issues were before. I really like being able to use the tie rod clamp. Makes adjustments so much easier and accurate to boot.
And lock the other direction.
Having shortened the hydraulic cylinder to a tick over 5" of stroke, I got all the clearance I needed and more.
Here's some shots of the final product.
Full lock left turn. Hard to see but there is about 1/16" of space between the steering stop and the axle. They cylinder is the stop.
Same situation with the other turn,
Right turn, shot of the end of the cylinder where all the clearance issues were before. I really like being able to use the tie rod clamp. Makes adjustments so much easier and accurate to boot.
And lock the other direction.
Nice! 
What gas mixture do you use Kert? Standard 75/25 or something different? Do you know your LPM?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Anything over 40 CFH is wasting gas...
I was just curious because of how little spatter you have. I have seen some mild steel welds using 90/10 and they looked as clean as yours. Might have more to do with being a 220v welder instead of 110 or the style of transfer used. I use 75/25 and around 12 LPM with a plain jane 110v short circuit mig and it hardly ever comes out as clean as your stuff. What brand and part number wire do you use? Is it .030 or .035?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Get away from the short circuit and get into a spray arc. Wire size doesn't much matter. If you really want low spatter get in a metal core wire and don't look back. Lincoln wire 706.
