CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.

Atleast pulling the VE is dirt simple, they make a special 13mm wrench to get to the back mounting nuts but it's not required if you're determined enough. And the puller for the drive gear is something you could make easy enough. Where you'll already have the timing cover off there won't be any guesswork involved on re installation either. I've got both tools at home if you'd like measurements to just make your own, they're only like $40 though
 
image_zps2de1be2b.jpg



Hope to have the engine in paint Monday.
 
So the first shot there is a little gear puller we made up today to pop the gear off the VE pump. Worked perfectly.

Second shot is the tappet cover on the drivers side of the engine. It was leaking oil pretty good at the rear of the engine.

Third shot is the KDP killer. Just a small tab with a sort of "finger" on it to keep the dowel pin from walking out.
 
So the first shot there is a little gear puller we made up today to pop the gear off the VE pump. Worked perfectly.

Second shot is the tappet cover on the drivers side of the engine. It was leaking oil pretty good at the rear of the engine.

Third shot is the KDP killer. Just a small tab with a sort of "finger" on it to keep the dowel pin from walking out.

I find it hilarious that even gear heads like myself that have never owned a diesel, dodge, Cummins, etc know of the notorious killer dowel pin.
 
I find it hilarious that even gear heads like myself that have never owned a diesel, dodge, Cummins, etc know of the notorious killer dowel pin.

It's pretty interesting to me. For such a renowned engine, as powerful as they can be, the die hard following they seem to have, the popularity for conversions.

One tiny little design flaw, it just makes me wonder how it got overlooked in the design of the engine. If there are other design flaws, I don't know about them. this one is so simple to correct. It has to be something that was just overlooked.

To tell ya the truth, I don't even know what the dowel pin is in there for. Just know, I want it to stay in there.

I'll have to try and find some pics of an engine where one has come out.
 
It's pretty interesting to me. For such a renowned engine, as powerful as they can be, the die hard following they seem to have, the popularity for conversions.

One tiny little design flaw, it just makes me wonder how it got overlooked in the design of the engine. If there are other design flaws, I don't know about them. this one is so simple to correct. It has to be something that was just overlooked.

To tell ya the truth, I don't even know what the dowel pin is in there for. Just know, I want it to stay in there.

I'll have to try and find some pics of an engine where one has come out.

O I've seen some pics. Its nasty and involved all those gears esploderded.
 
The engine is paint now. Looks pretty good i think. Paint went on real nice.

debating the fueling mods now. May just run it as is. Either way be easy to do the mods later as well. Because of that, I waited to shoot some paint on the pump. Not a big deal either way. Some other parts need to be painted seperately anyway so still some painting to do.

Still focusing on getting other components ready to go to put the chassis together and make it a roller. Time to dig a 4.10 geared 14BFF out of storage and get it ready to go.
 
The engine is paint now. Looks pretty good i think. Paint went on real nice.

debating the fueling mods now. May just run it as is. Either way be easy to do the mods later as well. Because of that, I waited to shoot some paint on the pump. Not a big deal either way. Some other parts need to be painted seperately anyway so still some painting to do.

Still focusing on getting other components ready to go to put the chassis together and make it a roller. Time to dig a 4.10 geared 14BFF out of storage and get it ready to go.

It will never be easier than now, Denny T fuel pin and a 12 cm exhaust housing really wake those 1st gen dodge diesels up. You will kick yourself later if you don't upgrade, the difference is night and day.

Also are you running the dodge pcm, If so the 92s are tempermental being the first year dodge put one in a diesel. I would ditch it if you don't plan on running a dodge alternator.
 
bet it looks awesomer!

It does look good Dave. I'm pretty happy with it.

It will never be easier than now, Denny T fuel pin and a 12 cm exhaust housing really wake those 1st gen dodge diesels up. You will kick yourself later if you don't upgrade, the difference is night and day.

Also are you running the dodge pcm, If so the 92s are tempermental being the first year dodge put one in a diesel. I would ditch it if you don't plan on running a dodge alternator.

Don't know what a Denny T fuel pin or 12cm exhaust housing is. Probably some of the reason i'm hesitating. I don't understand what these mods that everybody speaks about are supposed to do.

I'll keep the Dodge alternator however, the PCM isn't required for alternator. It has a external regulator that is seperate from the PCM.
 
It does look good Dave. I'm pretty happy with it.



Don't know what a Denny T fuel pin or 12cm exhaust housing is. Probably some of the reason i'm hesitating. I don't understand what these mods that everybody speaks about are supposed to do.

I'll keep the Dodge alternator however, the PCM isn't required for alternator. It has a external regulator that is seperate from the PCM.

Sorry about that, the way a VE rotary pump works is there is a rod that rides up and down the fuel pin controlling the flow of fuel. The fuel pin itself is connected to a diaphragm that as more air flows into the engine it moves up or down. The fuel pin is cone shaped, and the factory one brings fuel on very slowly and doesn't reach max fuelling potential whereas the Denny T fuel pin begins fueling much quicker and provides max fueling from the VE pump. This pin combined with the free mods you can find online really wakes up the factory pump.

The factory exhaust housing on that engine should be at 23 cm housing, what this means is that as the exhaust exits the motor it has a much larger area to fill as it exits (read exits slower) spinning the exhaust turbine wheel realitvly slow. A 12 centimeter exhaust housing causes the exhaust gases to spool much faster do the confined space building more boost with less exhaust. I may have one of these housings floating around if you end up looking for one.

As far as using the stock dodge alternator goes, the voltage regulators are plagued with problems I had one in a 90 truck I used to have always carried one spare with me because I probably replace the dozen of them over the few years I had the truck. Just more food for thought, pm me if you want more info on these first gen cummins motors I've played with them alot.
 
Good info. So the smaller housing spools it up faster but what does it do on the top end?
 
Good info. So the smaller housing spools it up faster but what does it do on the top end?

It doesn't affect top end at all, these engines spin a max of 3000 rpm, all the housing does is give you boost faster, peek boost stays the same.

for your list of mods to do to the pump I forgot to add you will need a 366 spring, what this does is allows the engine to spin up to 3000 rpm rather than capping it at 2700 rpm like the factory spring. Last I looked, the springs were less than $20.
 
i'm already diggin this build! those frame rails are beautiful!
 
i'm already diggin this build! those frame rails are beautiful!

Thanks!

Getting anxious to start putting them together but really no need to right now. The frame needs to be a roller as quickly as possible once the rails get put together. Space is a valuable commodity in the shop and keeping things readily mobile really helps.

To that end, I need to get an axle ready to go, get some leaf springs in house and do some preliminary design work on the spring hangers.

Really shouldn't be to long. With the engine for the most part ready to go in, I can work on the axles and such and just do some little things on the engine along the way.
 
Should be red if y'all want to get picky. :D

Looks good! Glad I'm not the only person on the interweb that doesn't know everything about modding a Cummins.
 
Top Bottom