CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

1st gen dodges weren't as long as our crew cabs, so that exhaust system is a little short. What I did was ordered the muffler delete pipe. It's about a 2' long straight piece and I used with the muffler to make up the extra difference in length.

The part I like the most is the downpipe. It's 4" right at the turbo and turns down right away. It clears my firewall by about an inch or so. Other than a little modifying around the t case (The NV4500 clocks the t case a little higher than it was with the Getrag) it's pretty much a bolt on and go deal.
 
I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

1st gen dodges weren't as long as our crew cabs, so that exhaust system is a little short. What I did was ordered the muffler delete pipe. It's about a 2' long straight piece and I used with the muffler to make up the extra difference in length.

The part I like the most is the downpipe. It's 4" right at the turbo and turns down right away. It clears my firewall by about an inch or so. Other than a little modifying around the t case (The NV4500 clocks the t case a little higher than it was with the Getrag) it's pretty much a bolt on and go deal.

I got some 4" tubing. I'll see what I can come up with first. If not, i'll give the diamond eyes another look.
 
Why outside the frame rail? Didn't you use a drivers side drop, and the exhaust is on the passenger side it appears?
 
Running a stack up through the cab corner!
 
Why outside the frame rail? Didn't you use a drivers side drop, and the exhaust is on the passenger side it appears?

the plan was for a drivers side drop however, I don't see that working very well with the clutch and the starter on that side. Probably be going with the passenger side driveshaft.

I've gone outside with the frame rail on a couple of trucks and really like the benefits of it. Just opens up a lot of space on the inside of the frame rails and makes servicing things much easier. Besides that, keeps all the heat well away from things like the transmission and lines and such.
 
Started out this morning with the electrical bulkhead panel. Then threw the wiper motor on. Pretty much gotta have everything on the firewall before I can do the front end cage.

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Then I finished off the intake tubing.

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After that I built the air manifold for the York air system.

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Thanks!

Anybody know how the park switch on the wiper motor wires in?
 
What year motor/switch you using? I've got 1985 GM factory manuals I can look at when I get home around 4:30.
 
Hope this helps, if it's not exactly what you need let me know I'll keep digging. Not exactly a fan of how none of the schematics aren't really labeled in the book :rolleyes:

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Hope this helps, if it's not exactly what you need let me know I'll keep digging. Not exactly a fan of how none of the schematics aren't really labeled in the book :rolleyes:

That's perfect. Thank you very much.
 
Not exactly a fan of how none of the schematics aren't really labeled in the book :rolleyes:

Not labeled by wire color, but it does give the connector numbers. That should be good enough if they molded the numbers into the connector as well.
 
Looks interesting. Looks like you still have to run a thread into the hole that the flow drill makes.

As far as leaks go, tig weld is pretty easy to make seal.
 
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