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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.

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One other thing that just hit me...

Looking at valves and found a few of the 12v variety. Reading about them and starting to get a bit concerned about the valve freezing up.

Most of them aren't rated for subzero temps when you may need the locker the most.

Another vote for a manual valve.
 
run an air system antifreeze. like they use in commercial trucks brake systems. 99% of valves and such in huge plants are air powered with those same solenoids out in the elements. the only ones i ever have to change cause their stuck is ones with water in the air system.

adjustable air suspensions also use solenoids and most are used in the winter all the time. might even find some under lincolns in the bone yard:dunno:


and remember you'll need a manual valve with an exhaust if you go that route.

Another vote for the manual one's, is they're WAY cheaper :waytogo: pm me if you decide to go that way:whistle:
 
I would look at semi-truck parts, they hold air pressure and release it every time they hit the brakes. They also have air ride they need to control, I would guess they have a 12V solenoid valve from a factory part that does exactly what you need.
 
If you did use manual valves in order to keep the cab less cluttered you could use a pair of choke cables to activate them, then no valves in the cab
 
Get the power tank manual switches and install in the cab. Yes it's more air line, but they are good switches. Better ones are some kind of semi truck air switch that Shannon Campbell uses in all his builds.

ARB lockers are great, the compressors are great and the only thing I've ever had an issue with is the air control side of their electronics. Eliminate that and you have a bomber system.
 
miniwally said:
Get the power tank manual switches and install in the cab. Yes it's more air line, but they are good switches. Better ones are some kind of semi truck air switch that Shannon Campbell uses in all his builds.

ARB lockers are great, the compressors are great and the only thing I've ever had an issue with is the air control side of their electronics. Eliminate that and you have a bomber system.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Just looked at the Power tank switches. I'd jump on them if they didn't use the 5mm line. I'd like to limit the length of that line as much as possible.

Got some friends that are versed in the semi tractor stuff and will look at those options. At least with those, I'd imagine, the line is 1/4" or possibly an NPT port. If that's the case, I can run some steel line on the frame rails and only have the plastic lines where flex is needed.

So far, that is how I have everything plumbed. As much steel line as possible.
 
Damn near got the tcase support cross member in yesterday. May just run over to the shop and finish that up today. I'll post up some pics of that once its finished.

Front end list is super short.
 
A quick shot of the tcase support cross member.


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When I worked at Peterbilt I replaced a few air switches and they used plastic air line with pushlock fittings in the back of the switch. They rarely ever leaked that I remember. you could use a short hunk of plastic line for the switches and then use adapters to hook the plastic line to steel line.
 
78K30 said:
When I worked at Peterbilt I replaced a few air switches and they used plastic air line with pushlock fittings in the back of the switch. They rarely ever leaked that I remember. you could use a short hunk of plastic line for the switches and then use adapters to hook the plastic line to steel line.
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I don't mind the plastic line inside the vehicle and its needed where there is flex between the mounting points, such as, frame to cab and etc. I'd go with steel lines on the frame as much as I can.

Did the switches you replaced have the dump valve function?
 
So far, I got a pretty flat belly on this rig.

Only thing below the frame at this point is the flanges for those cross members, from the shackles all the way back to the spring hangers for the rear springs.
 
cybrfire said:
Did the switches you replaced have the dump valve function?
Click to expand...

If memory serves the power divider lock and diff lock switches do exactly as you're wanting to do. They dump the air supply to the locker out of an exhaust port on the switch itself. Some of the older trucks used toggle style ones and the newer ones used rocker switches so you could probably get either to blend into your interior. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong it has been 4 years since I touched a truck!
 
78K30 said:
If memory serves the power divider lock and diff lock switches do exactly as you're wanting to do. They dump the air supply to the locker out of an exhaust port on the switch itself. Some of the older trucks used toggle style ones and the newer ones used rocker switches so you could probably get either to blend into your interior. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong it has been 4 years since I touched a truck!
Click to expand...


Nice. Exactly what I was looking to here.
 
Let's talk AC systems for a moment.

Anybody here really familiar with AC systems in general?

Does it matter where in the high pressure side line the service port goes? Most diagrams have it on the back side of the compressor. That doesn't work so good with the AC compressor on the Cummins diesel engine. Compressor is at the bottom of the engine and not so convenient to get to.

The high pressure side as I understand it, is from the compressor to the condenser, then to the drier and into the evaporator. The orifice tube or evaporator valve must be inside the main unit along with the evaporator.

So, if that is correct, can the high pressure service port be after the drier but before the evaporator?

It'd be ideal if the two service ports were right on the firewall for the ability to actually get to them and keep the install clean.
 
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